Polishing compounds?

R

rwh

New member
Need some guidance. I will be buffing/polishing a hood I just finished painting. Used Dupont BC/CC (7900S clear). I have finished final sanding the hood and used 2500 grit as my final sanding. I have a Milwaukee buffer and a Porter Cable orbital polisher. Yes I am proficient with the buffer and my basic questions are what are the appropriate compounds to use. I have and was going to use the following. 3M Perfect it II 05937 with a lambs wool pad to start, them clean and move to Perfect it II foam polishing glaze 05996 with a foam polishing pad, then finish with a hand glaze. I am open to suggestions on the hand glaze as to what type. For no specific reason I was going to stick with the 3M product line because I have the first two products already. Trust me I am open to all suggestions/comments. If its of any value the color is a Torch Red, and yes I am very critical of any surface fine line scratches.
 
I'm gonna assume you're proficient enough that you can get all the marring out with the polishers before you go to the hand glaze. That's certainly how I would approach this unless you wanted to let the paint harden some more before you do the final abrasive polishing.



Sorry, not familiar with the 05996 part number. I think you got a number mixed up, the 05937 is PI-III MG, a nice product for final buffing but not a good candidate for the rotary/wool cutting step.



Just FWIW, I'd use PI-III RC (05933) or PI-II FCRC (39002 in the 16 oz. bottle) with the rotary and then PI-III MG (05937) with first the rotary (soft foam pad) then the PC. I'd work this until the finish was flawless and *then* glaze.



While I understand your inclination to stick with 3M stuff, I like Meg's #5 *SO* much better for fresh paint that I'd go with it. By hand or PC it's easy to use, leaves a *very* nice, slick surface, and holds up a bit better in the rain than most similar products.
 
Well you would think I would at least use the right part #'s if I'm going to ask for help! My fault. The first compound I was going to use is 05973 not 05937. 05973 is a med. cut compound. Man, there are way to many numbers here, I get easily confused. I'm sure somewhere there is a list of products shown based on their grittyness (sp-is that a word?) Even Meg. products, there are so many to chose from. I may give the Meg #5 a try if you really have had good results. After the 05937 mg I was not sure what to use. Again, thank you for your input.
 
rwh- Heh heh, LOL about your comment about getting the numbers wrong :D Now we're on the same page.



FWIW, I'd use something milder than the Med. cut myself. I've gone straight from 2500grit (Meg's Unigrit) to PI-III RC 05933 and that compound was plenty for the 2500 marks. Whenever I try anything harsher I end up taking off more paint than I like by the time I get it all done. The jump from 05933 to 05937 is just right too.



If you find the 05933 too mild you haven't lost much...just use the 05973 after all and then use the 05933 to bridge the gap between your most aggressive compounding and your final polishing.



I'm not exaggerating about how much I like #5 for fresh paint. Only thing you might not like is that it *does* dust a bit, especially if you put it on too thick. But it's never been a problem for me and it's not *terrible* dusting or anything like that.
 
Holy smokes Accumulator, I just noticed your post count then I looked at mine. Talk about an inferiority complex, yeiks! Look up the 3M 05996 and tell me what ya think. I know without trying it you really cannot comment, but I have had pretty good results with it, but I'm allways open to new suggestions. That is why I think this forum is so great. The dusting on the #5 will not bother me at all as long as the results are there. Can I assume the #5 is the last step. Also assuming I can use the Porter Cable orbital to apply. THANKS a heap.
 
rwh- Heh heh, "phooey" on my post count, just means I've spent a bit of time here ;)



I couldn't find the 05996 on the 3M site, anything else you can tell me about it?



Guess I'm just assuming it's stronger than you need and you know what the Navy guys say about assumptions :o If it's been working well for you I'd stick with it. Once you learn a product you might as well put that knowledge to use.



Yeah, the #5 is a nonabrasive, fresh-paint-safe glaze that you use in place of "wax" while the paint is curing. Yeah, you can use the PC for it (and most anything else that normal people do by hand). IMO you'll love the performance and the way it's so user-friendly. Be sure to buff it off with something *very* soft (I use my best plush MFs) so you don't somehow mar the (still soft) fresh paint.
 
Accumulator said:
I couldn't find the 05996 on the 3M site, anything else you can tell me about it?



Guess I'm just assuming it's stronger than you need and you know what the Navy guys say about assumptions :o If it's been working well for you I'd stick with it. Once you learn a product you might as well put that knowledge to use.
Click to expand...



05996 is 3M Perfect It Foam Polishing Pad Glaze for dark colors. This is 3M Swirl Mark Remover for dark colors in a 32 oz bottle.
 
stevet said:
05996 is 3M Perfect It Foam Polishing Pad Glaze for dark colors. This is 3M Swirl Mark Remover for dark colors in a 32 oz bottle.
Click to expand...



Thanks...I should've had another cup of coffee or something :o



*I* don't like the SMRs for light/dark colors. They do more filling than removing, often leaving one with an inaccurate expectation as to the paint's true condition. I'd do the final polishing with the PI-III MG. It's been discontinued but is still commonly available. Enough cut to remove minor marring (like micromarring from mild RCs) but it leaves a ready-to-[LSP] finish in most (99.9%)cases.



But that's just me and I don't see any reason to change an approach that's proven itself based on what somebody else would do. And anyhow, with the fresh paint, there's a good case to be made for using something with fillers until the paint has cured and *then* doing any final correction, rather than taking of more and more paint all the time.



Guess my real concern would be whether the SMR would have enough bite to remove micromarring from previous steps.
 
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