Polishing a boat

ShaneB

ShaneB

New member
A customer of mine contacted me again this year to have me put sealant on his corvette as well as polish his boat again. Last year I polished the boat with a PC (I know, I know) and the results were decent. I did a test spot and he was happy enough so we went with it. Took awhile but he was happy.

This year I now own a makita rotary, a rupes 21 and a pe8. So I'm much better equipped to do a better job.

What I want is some suggestions on what pads to use on the gel coat. I've only done one boat (same one last year) and want to to the best job possible with one step. I want to place an order tonight if I need any pads or backing plates so I can do the job next Sunday. Just not familiar enough with polishing gel coat to know exactly what to use.
 
I should add. I currently own mostly buff n shine pads (orange and green) and have some Meg's microfiber cutting pads as well. I do have 3 lake country wool pads as well for the rotary. Only 3 though so I'll probably want more if that's the route to take
 
ShaneB said:
I should add. I currently own mostly buff n shine pads (orange and green) and have some Meg's microfiber cutting pads as well. I do have 3 lake country wool pads as well for the rotary. Only 3 though so I'll probably want more if that's the route to take
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How big a boat? Is it white? What condition is the gelcoat in?

If its less than 30ft, white, and no more than a slight haze to the shine....Makita w/Wool with a good finishing white compound then wax. 2 wool pads should do you, I paste wax with the DA. Of course FB like paints can vary from boat to boat. This has been my experience over the last 14 years on a 30 searay. I would recommend a good dewaxing type cleaning first
 
I have done a few boats and always with my rotary,i could imagine that the DA would take a life time,the thing to remember about the gel coat is that unlike paint or clear coat its the same colour all the way through ;you cant blow through it ;,so the best way to attack it is to sand it and buff it as you go section by section,the problem with going at it with the machine on its own is the build up of crap on your pads,where as when you sand it first you are only going after your 1500 -3000 marks and with the heat under control you will fly through it and get an amazing result
 
just use your existing pads and products on a rotary.

On some boats bns green with d151 on a rotary will do the trick.

If you were going to do a deeper cut, start with wool pads. Harbor freight ones are good for this, and a few paired with a spur should do it.
 
Its a white boat mostly with a big green stripe. Probably no bigger than 30ft. Last time I did it I used this product
3M Marine Restorer & Wax 16 oz. - 09005

I plan to use it again but am hoping for a little better results with the better tools. Can you get away with doing this in a single step with a wool pad or will that leave holograms that will need finishing down as they would on a car?
 
Use the rotary and a wool pad. I detailed a black 23' Centurion with a 21es and Megs Xtra Cut MF discs and it turned out really well. I feel like it took forever though. It probably took 12 hrs from start to finish and it took a toll on me. If I had to do it again I would just use a rotary.
 
I looked up some stuff on youtube... yikes there are some hacks out there. But I got what I needed, the wool will definitely leave holograms.

I think I will pickup some MF pads for my rupes 21 and just go with that for a one step. I have a 5 inch backing plate on my rupes now but still have my 6 inch plate. I figure this will be a good time to swap it back and use bigger pads for the boat so I can cover more area quickly
 
I use to do a Ski Nautique every year. The best combo was rotary, wool pads, Shurhold Buff Magic, and I never had holograms. You just need to keep the speed around 1000 and work it evenly.
 
ShaneB said:
I looked up some stuff on youtube... yikes there are some hacks out there. But I got what I needed, the wool will definitely leave holograms.

I think I will pickup some MF pads for my rupes 21 and just go with that for a one step. I have a 5 inch backing plate on my rupes now but still have my 6 inch plate. I figure this will be a good time to swap it back and use bigger pads for the boat so I can cover more area quickly
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I never have holograms, 1 or 2 passes with megs diamond cut, wax with fk1000 with 4" da...All depends on the current condition and quality of the gelcoat. On my well maintained boat a 1 step would never do it... If I was up to speed on posting pics i would show you
 
ShaneB said:
I looked up some stuff on youtube... yikes there are some hacks out there. But I got what I needed, the wool will definitely leave holograms.

I think I will pickup some MF pads for my rupes 21 and just go with that for a one step. I have a 5 inch backing plate on my rupes now but still have my 6 inch plate. I figure this will be a good time to swap it back and use bigger pads for the boat so I can cover more area quickly
Click to expand...

The one problem you will run into with the 6" plate and 6" Megs MF pads is vibration. The 21es doesn't vibrate that much with the 5" cutting pad, but vibrates REALLY bad with 6" cutting and 6" Xtra cut pads. The vibration really got to me that day and I haven't used the 6" Megs MF pads since. Maybe try a thin wool pad on the 21es if you are really wanting to use it.
 
ive done two boats with my duetto and PB PWS and hydro tech cyan pads..I've never used anything else I only used PWS because its sun friendly and a good one step. followed up with BF Spray Sealant (took half a bottle!)

yielded pretty good results if I say so myself

but I am no Pro so I'd take the advice from the other guys
 
I was going to buy the rupes MF pads if I was going to go that route. Come to think of it, I used the 5" cutting disc's recently and it was the first time I noticed that tingling after feeling once I put the polisher down. Never felt it with foam pads
 
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