Poli-Seal Uses

baker

baker

New member
I'm expecting a bottle of poli-seal soon and was wondering if anyone used it as a lsp, or as a polish and protect with something else. Is this a better all in one than klasse, or just different. It is supposed to have more correction ability than most AIO. Does anyone just use it as a polish. I see Scottwax uses it regularly, so it must be decent.
 
lsp on cars only getting a two step...it clears up HTEC and wool pad, and fills a little bit....but that is the only way to make cheapo paying customers' cars look the best...
 
I have read that PS can be topped with an LSP, and at the same time, be left as the LSP, depending on the pad you use, and give you anywhere between 3-5 month protection.
 
sometimes i remove the PS with OCW which is very fast and easy. also adds some durability.
 
pt91 said:
sometimes i remove the PS with OCW which is very fast and easy. also adds some durability.
Click to expand...



I'll either do that or top it with a wax usually. I've topped it with Poorboys EX as well with good results. I haven't personally gone with a totally synthetic sealant over the top of it yet. If the weather holds out this weekend, I'll probably be trying it out as a one step on a Silverado.
 
I top with OCW for those cars that make me more profit...costs so little to me, yet adds a nice shine, I tend to just do it on all cars now no matter what...



best results return the clients...
 
Now that I am mostly using the rotary, I've been using Poli-Seal as my finishing polish. Does a great job removing any hazing or holograms with a blue Soft Edge polishing pad. Plus, it darkens the paint somewhat so it really looks good on black cars.
 
I feel no need to top Poli-Seal. Many times I use it as my only step if the paint is in very good condition or on my mini-details. I also use it as Scott does, following a rotary polishing step.
 
brwill2005 said:
I feel no need to top Poli-Seal.
Click to expand...



It is suprisingly durable. At 4 months, it was still beading (from the rain that day) nicely on a customer's black ML430-still looked really good too when I went back the next month.
 
Scottwax said:
Now that I am mostly using the rotary, I've been using Poli-Seal as my finishing polish. Does a great job removing any hazing or holograms with a blue Soft Edge polishing pad. Plus, it darkens the paint somewhat so it really looks good on black cars.
Click to expand...



A week or so ago I remember reading one of your posts saying you were having problem putting holograms in paint with a rotary and therefore used your UDM for finishing. What are you doing now to prevent the holograms?
 
Scott I had an issue with some things reappearing after the rotary and PS. Be cautious as things appeared *perfect* when I was done.
 
I think saying lasting surface protectant sounds better than last step product.



Spoiled, I was told by a very reliable close source with optimum that ps is the only product they have that fills.
 
bert31 said:
A week or so ago I remember reading one of your posts saying you were having problem putting holograms in paint with a rotary and therefore used your UDM for finishing. What are you doing now to prevent the holograms?
Click to expand...



That was on some pretty soft paint. No issues at all with an Audi I did a week later.



SpoiledMan-what pad and rpm did you use? On a black Passat I did today, I finished out using a blue Soft Edge polishing pad (feels somewhat softer than a Meguiars yellow polishing pad) and about 1200 rpm or so. No sun despite the forecast so I had to use my 1 watt LED flashlight (actually pretty bright) to check my work. It appeared to completely remove the few light holograms left from using Optimum Compound and a Meguiars polishing pad.
 
I use PS and top with OS with nice results. But I have on ocassion used it as a full one step and had it last 2-3 months
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top