Please check your Dryer plug and outlet

It is ideal to have the ground and neutral separated, yes. Safer, definitely, but obviously they work ok with the 3 wire system. The reason it is better to have the separate is with a 3 wire system you use the ground as the neutral. There are some things on a dryer that are actually 120V..i.e. the light, backlighting for the buttons or selections, and the timer. When these operate there is a small amount of current on that ground conductor, which is also connected to the metal of the appliance. That being said there are certain circumstances where any bare metal you touch would have current present. It usually is not enough or people aren't grounded when they come into contact with it but it is possible. With the 4 wire system you eliminate this chance. I hope I explained this clearly and by no means am I trying to scare you into anything, just trying to clarify why the code was changed. This is the same reason the jumper should be removed when a new unit is installed. There are literally millions running everyday with either a 3 wire system or with the jumper intact so it is obviously not an imminent threat. Maybe have it done the next time you have a reason for an electrician? Truth be told connecting in the panel isn't brain surgery either. You could shut off the power and do it yourself safely. If you want to go this route feel free to pm me and I can walk you through it without an issue.
 
dcjredline said:
I was greeted with this nightmare scene.



PLEASE go check yours if you haven't in a long time! It could save your life..
Click to expand...

Thanks for the PSA Don. You forced me to check my dryer plug and thankfully everything looked fine. :)
 
BSkip333 said:
It is ideal to have the ground and neutral separated, yes. Safer, definitely, but obviously they work ok with the 3 wire system. The reason it is better to have the separate is with a 3 wire system you use the ground as the neutral. There are some things on a dryer that are actually 120V..i.e. the light, backlighting for the buttons or selections, and the timer. When these operate there is a small amount of current on that ground conductor, which is also connected to the metal of the appliance. That being said there are certain circumstances where any bare metal you touch would have current present. It usually is not enough or people aren't grounded when they come into contact with it but it is possible. With the 4 wire system you eliminate this chance. I hope I explained this clearly and by no means am I trying to scare you into anything, just trying to clarify why the code was changed. This is the same reason the jumper should be removed when a new unit is installed. There are literally millions running everyday with either a 3 wire system or with the jumper intact so it is obviously not an imminent threat. Maybe have it done the next time you have a reason for an electrician? Truth be told connecting in the panel isn't brain surgery either. You could shut off the power and do it yourself safely. If you want to go this route feel free to pm me and I can walk you through it without an issue.
Click to expand...

Oh, I know dang well I can do it but that much potential voltage scares the crap out of me, Im a 12v guy so even 120 scares me...220 im at my wits end! The panel box OMG OMG OMG. Lol Im not scared of much but that is one thing. I may have to build up my courage and try it. THANKS FOR THE HELP!

Angus: Glad it made some check, I would hate to hear someone died from a fire caused by this right after finding mine and not letting my friends (real or other wise) know about it.
 
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