PC to rotary

xspwrstang

xspwrstang

New member
I've used the PC for a little over 5yrs now and I've been able to knock out some really bad surfaces. I have many different pads/combos that work really well but it does take time for corrections. My question is, will my experience w/the PC translate into taking the plunge w/a rotary. I am starting to see more and more cars w/buffer trails all over them and I'm wondering what creates it...I know it's the user. But is it from not keeping the pads flat or is it too much RPM? Anyone who's gone from PC to rotary please advise me. Thanks.
 
I'd try mastering the Kevin Brown Method with your exisiting machine before going with a rotary. More Pros are going from a rotary to a PC these days because they can correct just about every problem with it. Without the chance of leaving swirls behind and in less time. I myself have used nothing but a rotary since 1990 and up until just recently swithed over to the DA and absolutely love it.
 
xspwrstang said:
I've used the PC for a little over 5yrs now and I've been able to knock out some really bad surfaces. I have many different pads/combos that work really well but it does take time for corrections. My question is, will my experience w/the PC translate into taking the plunge w/a rotary. I am starting to see more and more cars w/buffer trails all over them and I'm wondering what creates it...I know it's the user. But is it from not keeping the pads flat or is it too much RPM? Anyone who's gone from PC to rotary please advise me. Thanks.
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When surface is really bad you have to go with a rotary.... buffer trails on my experience are created from high RPM specially when you use wool pads, so normally you cut at higher speed and polish and fininh at lower rpm's . However your pc still comes handy because you can do a couple more passes at level 3 with a polish and a finishing pad before you wax the surface...that will help eliminate buffer trails or holograms....



Hope it helps :buffing:
 
David Fermani said:
I'd try mastering the Kevin Brown Method with your exisiting machine before going with a rotary. More Pros are going from a rotary to a PC these days because they can correct just about every problem with it. Without the chance of leaving swirls behind and in less time. I myself have used nothing but a rotary since 1990 and up until just recently swithed over to the DA and absolutely love it.
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Have you worked with the FLEX???? Seems like works better than the PC....I personally love the new PC myself but Ihear more and more people using the flex because they say is a da and rotary in one??
 
Thanks for the quick responses! I love using my PC but I would really like to cut my time down and the way some of these "detail" shops around here are hacking every car it would be too much to tackle w/my PC. Or would it be the same amount of time to correct w/a rotary?
 
Rotary will cut your time down once you get a good handle of it. When i bought mine I just used it for certain bad sections of the car and finish the rest with PC. Also if you buy one make sure you get a hood from a junk yard and play with it on your free time, helped me a lot....
 
David Fermani said:
I'd try mastering the Kevin Brown Method with your exisiting machine before going with a rotary. More Pros are going from a rotary to a PC these days because they can correct just about every problem with it. Without the chance of leaving swirls behind and in less time. I myself have used nothing but a rotary since 1990 and up until just recently swithed over to the DA and absolutely love it.
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Now I think the whole world is upside down. :argue



I still don't see how the KBM is anything different then what people had done for years. Use plenty product and reasonable pressure. Now it just has a nifty acronym attached to it?
 
WRXsubaru2010 said:
Have you worked with the FLEX???? Seems like works better than the PC....I personally love the new PC myself but Ihear more and more people using the flex because they say is a da and rotary in one??
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Nope, not recently. When I did I didn't care for it much.





Mindflux said:
Now I think the whole world is upside down. :argue



I still don't see how the KBM is anything different then what people had done for years. Use plenty product and reasonable pressure. Now it just has a nifty acronym attached to it?
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It sure is different. The KBM is all about pad priming (with the right amount of product), pad cleaning, moderate pressure, movement and technique. It revolves around M105 (a non-deminishing compound) which hasn't been around all that long, especially the newer version.



Have you tried the KBM yet to see for yourself how it's different?
 
David Fermani said:
It sure is different. The KBM is all about pad priming (with the right amount of product), pad cleaning, moderate pressure, movement and technique. It revolves around M105 (a non-deminishing compound) which hasn't been around all that long, especially the newer version.



Have you tried the KBM yet to see for yourself how it's different?
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got a PM headed your way
 
Mindflux said:
..I still don't see how the KBM is anything different then what people had done for years...
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-AND-



David Fermani said:
It sure is different... It revolves around M105 (a non-deminishing compound) which hasn't been around all that long, especially the newer version.
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I can see both sides of this one. In fact, I've discussed it with Kevin...how some of us have basically been doing the same thing for a long time, just tweaking it a bit for the new abrasives.



Kevin *has* certainly made a great contribution; he sure has helped develop said tweaking, and his fine-tuning of the whole thing, with clear explanations of how/why, have certainly helped a lot of people get better results. Plus, he's helped get the PC/etc. accepted as serious detailing tools too.
 
its funny ive used the PC for awhile and this winter bought a makita rotary but I'm waiting to try it. I just dont want to damage a vehicle, but need to take the plunge soon.
 
nygoat03 said:
..this winter bought a makita rotary but I'm waiting to try it. I just dont want to damage a vehicle...
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While [stuff] can always happen (watch those edges ;) ), with the right knowledge base and mindset you shouldn't have any problems with actual *damage*. I see it as similar to using a chainsaw.
 
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