Paint just keeps oxidizing and oxidizing, no clear coat, what to do?

S

Schermd

New member
I have a red 1999 toyota tacoma with no clear coat on the paint, I can wax this thing and with in a month it starts fading again and then I wax it again and again and each time paint comes of on the rag, the paint must be getting thinner and thinner, is there any thing I can do to stop this process and save my paint.

Doug
 
It all depends on what type of wax you're using. If you're using something with abrassive in it you're going to get some paint transfer. It's just the nature of the beast
Not knowing what products you're using it makes it hard to figure our what is going wrong. I have found with most single stage paints you need to get passed the "dead layer of paint. Usually a good compounding by machine will get you there.
 
But then what do I do to keep from having to wax it again in a month to to get the shine back into it again.
What do I do to protect it to keep it from oxidizing so quickly again?
 
Its called the cruse of red!

Its the pigmentation in the color that seems to fad quickly. How can you combat this?

Stop just waxing the car souly, wax is a protection product but not as durable as you may need given your storage and driving conditions. To get rid of the oxidation you need a polish, two types are good on your SS paint. PB P-w-C is a good one or something like a paint cleaner. PB PP is the one that I use, but there are many to choose from on the market.

Once you have the paint back in condition, I would recommend a sealant rather than just wax. Sealants are more durable than wax and higher temp, meaning that it will resist the UV rays which is causing the fading.

You can top that off with wax for additional shine and protection
 
They could, but not with the Poorboys line, of course. They'd likely have either Meguiar's Mirror Shine line, 3M, AutoMagic or their "house" line. Also, they may have only 32 oz. or gallon sizes, which would be likely too big for a typical "weekend warrior."
As mentioned, you likely need to polish out the oxidation to get down to the "good" paint. By hand, you likely wouldn't get very good results if you tried compounding. A good chemical cleaner could be a good start. Mothers Step 1 PreWax Cleaner would help remove oxidation without taking much paint off, and it's widely available at many parts stores and depatment stores.
Without seeing the paint, it's hard to say how much paint is left. Also, (unfortunately) it is possible that your paint is shot and that even after polishing, you may get oxidation re-appearing in a short while. That said, polishing will help stave off the oxidation longer than just waxing.
As well, be prepared to have an uneven looking surface unless you do a thorough job. You may see your rubbing pattern appear through shiny and less shiny patches where you rubbed the oxidation off more thoroughly and less thoroughly. It may take repeated applications to get it looking uniform. Try 1 section at a time to see just what it will take (and how long) so you can use that knowledge for the rest of the vehicle. Try just a front fender first (or the roof, if you wanted to work on an area that wouldn't be seen much).
 
Not to put a damper on your efforts, but I agree with BL.

Sounds like your paint is more than 50% gone, and when that happens, all the polishing, waxes, and elbow grease in the world aren't going to last for very long.

You can spit on very oxidized paint and rub it with a cotton towel to make it look good for a few days. It's kind of dehydrating to do a whole car that way though.........
 
I've had a lot of luck with our Polish w/ Carnauba on this type of finish, and it will last a month or so before it starts fading back .. like Beemer said it's the curse of red single stage paint, probably enamel and the red pigment is drying out and there is no easy fix, by hand or machine, but stay away from any thing abrasive or you will be looking at primer very soon :notme:
 
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