Im still pretty new when it comes to buffing and polishing and only have the 3 pads that came with with HD polisher kit, I've done some pretty decent correction work with the pads but im still in the dark when it comes to maintaining the pads. I plan on buying more pads from LC because there factory is 10 minutes away from my house, what kind and how much of each pads should I buy? Im planing to work with the HD line and maybe megs down the road.
Pads and pad care
- Thread starter Paul2011
- Start date
Alexshimshimhae
New member
depending on what work you intend on doing--if you're expect you'll need to go compound and such i used the lc orange light cutting (i'd say for 1 car having 4+ comes in handy) for maintain/follow up from orange i go white (say 3-4) for finishing there's black (1 or 2)
Then again the HT's might be good too
Then again the HT's might be good too
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Pad Conditioning Brush
These brushes clean and restores the texture of foam buffing pads that have become caked with oxidised paint wax and / or polish. The texture of foam results from thousands of tiny hollow compartments. This varied texture provides polishing and buffing power as the buffer spins.
Wax and polish get caked in the hollow compartments, making the texture of the pad smooth and therefore ineffective. Very inexpensive and a worthwhile investment as pads will last longer and by cleaning lessens the risk of hard wax scratching the paint surface
After polishing 2-3 panels you will need to clean the pad to remove oxidized paint and polish debris, by using a Foam Pad Conditioning Brush. Place the brush (this brush does not work with dual-action polishers) onto the face of a foam pad spinning at 1200 RPM on a rotary polisher, slowly starting at the centre and working outwards towards the outside edge. Repeat until the foam is free of polish dust and etc. Once the pad becomes overly saturated w/ polish clean with warn water and some APC. Spin to dry. The pad does not have to be totally dry to use it again. After about 4 or 6 panel sections switch out to a fresh, clean pad.
Cleaning Pads
All pads have a performance cycle, meaning you will get the desired results only to a certain point on that curve. The point of declining performance is typically reached by polish / compound pad being overloaded with product; you should always be able to see the individual cells or texture of the pad, with proper, regular cleaning pad overload can be avoided.
Clean (or replace) you pads frequently: pads are easy to clean; the slotted pad face actually makes it easy to clean. Do not use the same pad to apply differing products as cross contamination will reduce the effectiveness or completely negate their purpose altogether. A new or freshly cleaned pad must be used with each type of car care product.
Cleaning and Care
Clean and / or replace pads as often as is necessary; a clean seasoned pad will enhance the abrasive abilities of the compound / polish and make the process not only more efficient but less time consuming.
Polishing pads can "load-up" with residues reducing their effectiveness; you should always be able to see the pores of the pad. Don't let polish residues dry in the pad as dried hardened polish can cause scratches. If you don't want to stop in the middle of polishing to clean pads, plan on using 2 or 4 pads for each polishing step on the average vehicle. Don't let polish residues dry in the pad.
When you remove a dirty pad from your polishing machine, immediately place it in a bucket of water with a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner (P21S® Total Auto Wash or Optimum Power Clean)
An extract from http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/136531-foam-pads-i.html#post1448087
These brushes clean and restores the texture of foam buffing pads that have become caked with oxidised paint wax and / or polish. The texture of foam results from thousands of tiny hollow compartments. This varied texture provides polishing and buffing power as the buffer spins.
Wax and polish get caked in the hollow compartments, making the texture of the pad smooth and therefore ineffective. Very inexpensive and a worthwhile investment as pads will last longer and by cleaning lessens the risk of hard wax scratching the paint surface
After polishing 2-3 panels you will need to clean the pad to remove oxidized paint and polish debris, by using a Foam Pad Conditioning Brush. Place the brush (this brush does not work with dual-action polishers) onto the face of a foam pad spinning at 1200 RPM on a rotary polisher, slowly starting at the centre and working outwards towards the outside edge. Repeat until the foam is free of polish dust and etc. Once the pad becomes overly saturated w/ polish clean with warn water and some APC. Spin to dry. The pad does not have to be totally dry to use it again. After about 4 or 6 panel sections switch out to a fresh, clean pad.
Cleaning Pads
All pads have a performance cycle, meaning you will get the desired results only to a certain point on that curve. The point of declining performance is typically reached by polish / compound pad being overloaded with product; you should always be able to see the individual cells or texture of the pad, with proper, regular cleaning pad overload can be avoided.
Clean (or replace) you pads frequently: pads are easy to clean; the slotted pad face actually makes it easy to clean. Do not use the same pad to apply differing products as cross contamination will reduce the effectiveness or completely negate their purpose altogether. A new or freshly cleaned pad must be used with each type of car care product.
Cleaning and Care
Clean and / or replace pads as often as is necessary; a clean seasoned pad will enhance the abrasive abilities of the compound / polish and make the process not only more efficient but less time consuming.
Polishing pads can "load-up" with residues reducing their effectiveness; you should always be able to see the pores of the pad. Don't let polish residues dry in the pad as dried hardened polish can cause scratches. If you don't want to stop in the middle of polishing to clean pads, plan on using 2 or 4 pads for each polishing step on the average vehicle. Don't let polish residues dry in the pad.
When you remove a dirty pad from your polishing machine, immediately place it in a bucket of water with a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner (P21S® Total Auto Wash or Optimum Power Clean)
An extract from http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/136531-foam-pads-i.html#post1448087
SVR
Dream Machines
Compressed air is our friend. use it to blow polish residue and abraded paint out of the pad
I use water only to wash my pads unless they've been used on direct gloss paints aka SS paints
solvent and heavy oil based polishes may require the pads to be cleaned with soap and water
I use water only to wash my pads unless they've been used on direct gloss paints aka SS paints
solvent and heavy oil based polishes may require the pads to be cleaned with soap and water
Ron Ketcham
Active member
Yuuuppppp!
Grumpy
Grumpy
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Paul2011 said:
Déjà vu all over again - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/136531-foam-pads-i.html#post1448087