Pad Jiggle/hopping

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^&04types

New member
Hey everyone, I need some opinions and tips please.

I finally got to try out my new makita 9227 rotary. very impressed for the first time.

but have a few concerns, questions:



1) when I used the orange pad with ssr 2.5 swirl remover, i started at 600 to spread the product and then gradually sped up to 1500. What I did notice was slight swirl marks appearing and some hologramming. I fully broke down the polish until it was clear, but do not get why there were that many swirls. It did a great job with the finish but there were too many swirl marks as a result.



2) I used the WHITE POLISHING pad next to try and refine the finish and remove some the gramming and marks from the orange pad. I used the white pad with the makita and O. POLISH. seems as tho the marks got more severe. i had used 600 and went up gradually to 1000. Mind you I was getting a TON OF PAD HOP AND JIGGLE thus causing this. Why is the white pad causing the jiggling? is it due to be such a soft pad opposed to the orange? Im totally confused here. the min. i used the white pad, it was hopping and would stay in contact with the paint.???



so my question is: do I need to get 7.5 variable full contact pads? or is it something else? or is this nomal.? do I have to always finish off with a PC??



appreciate the advice everyone,

Vic:nixweiss :nixweiss
 
pressure on a rotary? i thought the only pressue it uses is the weight of the machine , no?



mite be 2 little product. does it have anything to do with the softness of the pad?:nixweiss :nixweiss
 
Try, 600-900-1200-900-600 on your next pass. Unlike a PC, rotaries do better (IMHO) when you finish off slow. Learned that method right here and it worked for me. Another thing is did you start off with enough polish?
 
JuneBug said:
Try, 600-900-1200-900-600 on your next pass. Unlike a PC, rotaries do better (IMHO) when you finish off slow. Learned that method right here and it worked for me. Another thing is did you start off with enough polish?
Click to expand...





That might be another issue, so when you do these steps, you have no swirl marks watsover?

seems as if tho the slower i move the jiggle gets worse , or am i wrong?:wall
 
Hi there,



When learning the rotary, I found the LC orange a PITA to use, tons of hop, didnt finish well. Also, try misting the pad with some QD, Distilled Water, or XMT Conditioner before each section, and make sure to use the right amount of product.



Hope this helps
 
Okay, I got your PM asking for advice, so here's my quick response to your post:



It will take some time to get the hang of the rotary. I always recommend NOOBs learning on a soft and flexible pad, cause the firmer ones can be a bit tricky (and slightly dangerous)...I personally like the Green P2s, but they are no longer available.



I really don't know which pads you used (other than the color), but 6.75" pads are ideal. Finishing down without halograms is tougher on darker paint, but I almost never have a problem finishing down without halograms (even on black)...so it can be done.



You can use pressure is you are trying to remove defect, but when your trying to finish down halogram-free on dark paint, the weight of the buffer is about right.



Regarding the hopping...the SSR abrasive line dries too quickly and doen't help your cause. And I think you'll gain a lot more control by not using the bale or handle on your Makita...just grab the machine bare-handed. A lot of people get some hop with the orange pads, and some of the closed-cell whites out there can be a bit tricky too. Also, get yourself some PO106FF polish, as it will help in you ability to finish down immensly. SSR 2.5 is pretty nasty stuff and is a compound through and through.



I generally operate in the 1100-1500 range...I think pressure, product, and technique are much more important to finishing down without halograms than is speed (within reason, of course).



^&04types said:
Hey everyone, I need some opinions and tips please.

I finally got to try out my new makita 9227 rotary. very impressed for the first time.

but have a few concerns, questions:



1) when I used the orange pad with ssr 2.5 swirl remover, i started at 600 to spread the product and then gradually sped up to 1500. What I did notice was slight swirl marks appearing and some hologramming. I fully broke down the polish until it was clear, but do not get why there were that many swirls. It did a great job with the finish but there were too many swirl marks as a result.



2) I used the WHITE POLISHING pad next to try and refine the finish and remove some the gramming and marks from the orange pad. I used the white pad with the makita and O. POLISH. seems as tho the marks got more severe. i had used 600 and went up gradually to 1000. Mind you I was getting a TON OF PAD HOP AND JIGGLE thus causing this. Why is the white pad causing the jiggling? is it due to be such a soft pad opposed to the orange? Im totally confused here. the min. i used the white pad, it was hopping and would stay in contact with the paint.???



so my question is: do I need to get 7.5 variable full contact pads? or is it something else? or is this nomal.? do I have to always finish off with a PC??



appreciate the advice everyone,

Vic:nixweiss :nixweiss
Click to expand...
 
guys i hear what your saying about using a softer pad but i am removing DEFECTS , not just applying polish. I am using 6.5 in LC PADS with a 4 3/4 backing plate. not only did the gramming appear with the SSR2.5 but also with the optimum polish. maybe not enuff product on the OP? like i stated swirl marks were minimum on the orange pad as opposed to the white pad.

do u think its too little product?normally anyone should be able to finish with a rotary w/o using the PC TO REMOVE SWIRLS CORRECT?



thanks for all your input,

Vic
 
Takes practice young grasshopper! :) Some vehicles have clear coats that are sensitive and wont finish down nicely using anything then other then the mildest of polishes. I worked on a Audi that literally was LSP ready when i used EC (heavy compound) with a yellow cutting pad via rotary at close to 2000rpms. Then again if i did the same thing to my acura's clear coat I would probably need AT LEAST two additional steps to get the finish lsp ready.



Make sure you prime the pad and use enough polish. Finish the polish (your case, the O polish) down using about 900 rpms, use "slight" pressure and slow passes. This "should" work. Just as an indicator it usually takes me about 7-10 minutes per panel for a single polishing step. This might help you give an idea of how slow you might need to make your passes to make sure the polish breaks down.
 
Just to add a little bit more here to bluecls's comments...if you're working on dark paint, typically only the softest polish, pad, and technique will yield zero halograms. If your doing heavy correction, it's okay to use an orange pad first, but you're gonna have to follow up with a softer pad and product. Also, a 6" backing plate is much better suited to 6.5" pads...don't know if this is contributing to the hopping or not as I've never used such a small backing with that size pad. Again, the orange is a tricky pad...but try grabbing the machine with your bare hand to give your greater control.



^&04types said:
guys i hear what your saying about using a softer pad but i am removing DEFECTS , not just applying polish. I am using 6.5 in LC PADS with a 4 3/4 backing plate. not only did the gramming appear with the SSR2.5 but also with the optimum polish. maybe not enuff product on the OP? like i stated swirl marks were minimum on the orange pad as opposed to the white pad.

do u think its too little product?normally anyone should be able to finish with a rotary w/o using the PC TO REMOVE SWIRLS CORRECT?



thanks for all your input,

Vic
Click to expand...
 
6in backin plate on 6.5 pad? dont you want enuff space on the edge to prevent any damage caused by the backing plate accidentally? most on this forum use the 4 3/4 backing plate with a 6.5 pad.... btw the issue i was having was I was using enuff polish.



anymore input is appreciated. thanks.:idea
 
i am like ryan in the fact that i use a 6" plate with a 6.5-6.75" pad...helps things operate muh more smoothly! used to use the megs 5" plate and once I switched to the 6", it was night and day difference...much easier to control!
 
^&04types said:
6in backin plate on 6.5 pad? dont you want enuff space on the edge to prevent any damage caused by the backing plate accidentally? most on this forum use the 4 3/4 backing plate with a 6.5 pad.... btw the issue i was having was I was using enuff polish.



anymore input is appreciated. thanks.:idea
Click to expand...



Wait a minute here...are you asking or givinig the answeres here? Just playing with you. But I seriously doubt many people use a 4 3/4" backing plates here. If you're looking for edge protection, some pads will offer more...Kevin Farrell at Kleen Car now has pads with recessed backing area.
 
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