2StepsAhead
New member
I've heard good things about top of the lines prep wash, was wondering if anyone has a list or some more prep washes they'd recommend to totally strip a car of wax and other silicones.
Other wax stripping washes?
- Thread starter 2StepsAhead
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2StepsAhead
New member
I was eyeing chemical guys citrus clear but now I read the description says it won't strip lsp's...won't the gloss leave behind something?
Accumulator
Well-known member
The first/alkaline step of the AutoInt and FK decontamination systems work great for the "clean slate" approach.
Besides solvents and IPA, there's always the oh-so-controversial
Dawn wash, but IME it needs to be mixed up pretty strong to compromise certain LSPs.
Besides solvents and IPA, there's always the oh-so-controversial
Dawn wash, but IME it needs to be mixed up pretty strong to compromise certain LSPs.shakashaunz
New member
CG CWC will strip LSP's when used in high enough concentration.
a_guerrajr
New member
i tried CG wash*gloss, it didn't do a good job.
next i'm trying APC diluted, i hear that's a good way.
ps21 total auto wash is good also
next i'm trying APC diluted, i hear that's a good way.
ps21 total auto wash is good also
Streetlife
Gleam Master Detailing
a_guerrajr said:
What was your dilution ratio? That could have been the problem, CG CWG is the best i've used to strip wax, the shine it leaves behind isn't bad either. Are you using a foam gun?
I have used Citrus Wash and Clear at 2 ounces per gallon on my car that I have presprayed with APC and after that I clayed using the same dilution of Citrus Wash and Clear as my lube left a clean slate. Also left me with pealing hands the next day so I would recommend nitrile gloves if you go that route.
David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
Paint thinner or OPC with 4000 grit sandpaper seems to lift away anything deeply embedded on pretty much anything.
tom p.
Active member
David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
bert31 said:
Yup, that's correct. Great product. I still clay too.
David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
Every case is different, but I never clay after sanding, just before. If you clay 1st it reduces the marring created by the sandpaper because as the embedded contaminants are sanded off they are still trapped between the panel and the paper as they move accross the surface.
4000 grit will make a noticeably crisper and cleaner difference in the final finish. You're actually flattening/leveling the clear, but in a more refined way.
Micro-Surface sells individual sheets as cheap as $2.37 each. They last 10 times longer that basic sheets too.
Micro-Mesh Sheets - Individual [SHT-01] - $2.37 : MICRO-SURFACE FINISHING PRODUCTS, INC
Call and speak to Debbie and she might give you some samples.
4000 grit will make a noticeably crisper and cleaner difference in the final finish. You're actually flattening/leveling the clear, but in a more refined way.
Micro-Surface sells individual sheets as cheap as $2.37 each. They last 10 times longer that basic sheets too.
Micro-Mesh Sheets - Individual [SHT-01] - $2.37 : MICRO-SURFACE FINISHING PRODUCTS, INC
Call and speak to Debbie and she might give you some samples.
wannafbody
wannafbody
Do you use a running stream of water or just QD when sanding?
David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
With MS paper you can use it anyway you want
QD / ONR / Alcohol / Solvent / Damp / Wet / Dry
QD / ONR / Alcohol / Solvent / Damp / Wet / Dry
Accumulator
Well-known member
Hmmm...Micro Mesh or Mirka's 4K foam pads.... :think: Decisions decisions...That's assuming I'm gonna do this period...
Accumulator
Well-known member
swan said:
Nah, I just wasn't clear enough
Or maybe I can say the manufacturers aren't clear enough :chuckle: :grinno:The Step One/ Acid Neutralizer *IS* the alkaline part of the system. That's how it neutralizes acids. ("Acid Neutralizer" = it neutralizes acids, otherwise they'd probably say "Acidic Neutralizer")
The Step 2/ Alkaline Neutralizer *IS* the acidic part; the acid in it neutralizes the alkaline stuff, including (certain types of) fallout (and dissolves ferrous stuff like rust while it's at it). ("Alkaline Neutralizer" = it neutralizes aklalines)
Alkaline stuff netutralizes acid; acidic stuff neutralizes alkalines. They just work it in a confusing manner IMO.
All that said....a lot of the stuff on cars ("fallout" or whatever you want to call it) will clean off quite effectively with a [Step 1/AutoInt "A" or FK1119/Acid Neutralizer/Alkaline product] wash.
"Fallout" is a mighty nebulous term...it can be either acidic stuff (e.g. acid rain or acidic stuff from factories/etc.) or alkaline stuff (e.g., rusting rail dust).
Heh heh, did I do any better explaining it that time?
Accumulator said:Nah, I just wasn't clear enough
The Step One/ Acid Neutralizer *IS* the alkaline part of the system. That's how it neutralizes acids. ("Acid Neutralizer" = it neutralizes acids, otherwise they'd probably say "Acidic Neutralizer")
The Step 2/ Alkaline Neutralizer *IS* the acidic part; the acid in it neutralizes the alkaline stuff, including (certain types of) fallout (and dissolves ferrous stuff like rust while it's at it). ("Alkaline Neutralizer" = it neutralizes aklalines)
Alkaline stuff netutralizes acid; acidic stuff neutralizes alkalines. They just work it in a confusing manner IMO.
All that said....a lot of the stuff on cars ("fallout" or whatever you want to call it) will clean off quite effectively with a [Step 1/AutoInt "A" or FK1119/Acid Neutralizer/Alkaline product] wash.
"Fallout" is a mighty nebulous term...it can be either acidic stuff (e.g. acid rain or acidic stuff from factories/etc.) or alkaline stuff (e.g., rusting rail dust).
Heh heh, did I do any better explaining it that time?
I knew which step it was, I just was confused a bit why you put it like you did. Now I go back and can see it clearer now. I see what you are saying they kind of confuse you a bit with how thy label it.
So to go over this, acid neutralizer is alkaline, alkaline neutralizer is acid and Finkle is Einhorn, Einhorn is Finkle!
:chuckle: