Orange Peel

O

opass

New member
Customer want to remove orange peel on his 2006 Corvette. By doing a search from Autopia database, I realize OP could be remove by either repaint or serious wetsanding. However, could compound with aggressive pad on rotary buffer could work on this sitution?



Compound (PG) with LC yellow or orange pad on rotary buffer (may redo again)

Optimum Polish with black sheepskin pad on rotary buffer

Optimum Polish with green pad on rotary buffer

Optimum Polish with white pad on Cyclo



Would the above steps enough to at least improve the OP or even close to perfect??????
 
In my limited experience with OP/wetsanding - heavy compounding will not remove OP. I did some pretty serious compounding on my car and didn't notice any significant reduction in OP until I wetsanded. I will say this - when I finally got some 3k grit the wetsanding was pretty easy. Definitely took less time to wetsand/polish the marring away then it would to do 4-5 passes with a rotary/cyclo. You are probably better off doing half that compounding after wetsanding with some 3k grit. Someone else may chime in with a better idea, but in every instance I've seen here on Autopia (or done personally) the only way to remove OP aside from a repaint is with sanding. :(
 
IN my experience the only way to remove OP is to wetsand. If your not really experienced with wetsanding I would leave it to someone else. You don't want to remove to much paint, you could either burn right through the paint or take enough off that it will look good right now but done the road the paint will fail because there isn't enough clearcoat left to protect it from the UV rays. I'm not trying to scare you away from dong this I just don't know how much experience you have with wetsanding and buffing.

If you have any more Q's let me know.



Chubs
 
opass said:
Customer want to remove orange peel on his 2006 Corvette. By doing a search from Autopia database, I realize OP could be remove by either repaint or serious wetsanding. However, could compound with aggressive pad on rotary buffer could work on this sitution?



Compound (PG) with LC yellow or orange pad on rotary buffer (may redo again)

Optimum Polish with black sheepskin pad on rotary buffer

Optimum Polish with green pad on rotary buffer

Optimum Polish with white pad on Cyclo



Would the above steps BE enough to at least improve the OP or even close to perfect??????
Click to expand...

absolutley not.
 
I see. Thanks for the info.



BTW......How long does it take to wetsanding the whole 06 convette? and usually how much do you guys charge for this type of service? I remember removeing OP is a expensive service.
 
I can't help you with how much to charge, but I can tell you that when I wetsanded my trunk, rear bumper, and front fenders, it took about 4 hours to sand and polish. I am sure I could have done it faster, but I was very methodical - I didn't want to screw anything up. Only other advice I can give is that using a really high grit paper makes removing the marring much easier. You have a rotary and you're good with it, so you'll likely be fine with 1500+, but I'd still recommend 2500-3000 if you can find it. It works just as well as the coarser stuff.
 
Picus said:
You have a rotary and you're good with it, so you'll likely be fine with 1500+, but I'd still recommend 2500-3000 if you can find it. It works just as well as the coarser stuff.
Click to expand...



:clap: Thanks for the positive feedback.



psl-wash........... :idea :idea :idea I see but cannot digest it.





However, is there any link to guide me how to do wetsanding in detail? I want to learn and then try it on my 15 yrs old car.



I have Meguiar's video tape that mention about wetsanding for about 5 minutes. Is it enough info for rookie like me?
 
No offence, but i would tell your customer to take his brand new baby to someone else, and then return to you when he needs a detail. He'll appreciate your honesty. A FULL wetsand should be handled by someone with (a) experience, and (b) the proper paint thickness gauges to ensure you dont go through the clear coat.



http://www.superiorshine.com/ This guy is in San Gabriel Valley which may or may not be close to you? I dunno, but honestly, u should not even consider doing this car. If i knew that my detailer had no experience I would be very pissed.



Dont take it the wrong way, but pass on this job. U wouldn't want to f-it up, which is very possible as a beginner.
 
I agree with 99ITR. If you don't have experience with something, the last thing you want to do is *learn* on a brand new Vette.



If I were the owner of the Corvette, I would like to know that you have zero experience with wetsanding, and I would not want you to make your first attempt on my brand new car. It doesn't have to be an insult...I just wouldn't want anything bad to happen to my car, and I wouldn't want to deal with the dilemma of "what happens now?" when something goes wrong. It would be a major inconvenience for both of you to have the car repainted because you sanded through the clearcoat.
 
heres a qoute (from me) from another wetsanding question.......



well you do have to be an experienced wet sander to do this type of job.....i wouldnt start wet sanding something unless youve had many hours of practice doing this......and there is no reason at all why you should be hitting the "metal"!!! to get to the metal you have to go threw the clear than threw the paint than threw the primer so if u hit metal than you dont have to many hours under your belt.......this is not something i recommend to the average person to do.........normally itll take me anywheres from one to two FULL days to do a complete sand down job.



my advice to u is if you want to have the op (orange peel) removed than find a detailer or a custom painter to do this task if you want it done right.



and yes it will be ok to sand the intire vehicle and stay safe.



goodluck.

oh and a good way to "test" your op is to hold say a bottle of anything beside your car about 2 feet away and try to read the label on the bottle.....cant read it? bad op
 
Is the OP just as bady on the Caddy's, or just a "chevy" problem?



I was looking at pickups, and almost puked.
 
99ITR_SC said:
No offence, but i would tell your customer to take his brand new baby to someone else, and then return to you when he needs a detail. He'll appreciate your honesty. A FULL wetsand should be handled by someone with (a) experience, and (b) the proper paint thickness gauges to ensure you dont go through the clear coat.



http://www.superiorshine.com/ This guy is in San Gabriel Valley which may or may not be close to you? I dunno, but honestly, u should not even consider doing this car. If i knew that my detailer had no experience I would be very pissed.



Dont take it the wrong way, but pass on this job. U wouldn't want to f-it up, which is very possible as a beginner.
Click to expand...



Guys....relax. What a respond.



Right from the beginning, I already dump the idea of doing this project by myself. Sorry for not being clear about this. Sometimes my writing does not really express my thought. :nervous:



BTW....My older car is perfect pratice ground for wet sanding. Any good link to learn from?
 
Ya, OP seems to be getting worse too - like it's just more acceptable out of the factory now. My car was a joke when I got it (OP wise), and even after wetsanding the hood, trunks, both bumpers, and front fenders, there is still some OP.



I will say this - I probably wouldn't start on a clients car, however, wetsanding isn't that difficult if you use the right products and take your time. I guess there is a high risk of screwing up, but as long as you're very thorough I think you would be alright. That said, it's a good idea to practice first, and an even better idea to have someone who has experience help you out until you get the hang of it.
 
Two things I learned quickly while working at a body shop . I learned these during the time that I " was left alone " to do a job and messed it up . Me being the hardhead I am and laying each and every freakin detail out step by step before I go at a job , I refused to believe that it was my fault . Turns out really it wasn't .

1.) 3m rubber blocks you would imagine are made for body shops and perfectly flat .

~ They are not flat at all

2.) The foam blocks they sell for curves and edges are proper for entire body jobs .

~ They are not your fingers press into them too much





Now for an OEM paint job , yes 2500 UNIGRIT - 3000 is necessary

For custom paint where you know you will be wetsanding and laying on excess clear just for the task we used 1200 up to 2500 .



My boss showed me to the back room and I layed eyes on flexible urethane blocks for fender curves and such that work with long rolls of sandpaper . I used 1200 and 1500 grit .

Well I am about to carry on lol , but here are the items needed besides and intense knowledge and feel for colorsanding



1. ) DuraBlock sanding set for odd areas and to mate to rounded body lines



Cheaper here NOTE : I cut the long block to 5-6" size when using 9" long sanding papers



2.) A flexible foam block not squishy as normal foam blocks ( $1.50 3m and Meg's )



3. ) A true-Flat sanding block the 5" one works with unigrit's 9" long sheets



OEM paint job - 2500 grit only where orange peel is prominent , 4-5 passes bi-directionally and squeegee away water and wipe excess water and check progress . I use the foam block as my squeegee .

WHen you see very little gloss in the low spots , start with the 3000 grit and work only one direction ( I usually pull the block towards me ) .

- soak papers overnight in lukewarm water with 1 ounce of meguiar's 00 wash or even Dawn liquid works .

- Fold ALL edges of paper into the block and hold the side edges onto the block . You can get issues with the edge of the paper catching even if soaked .

- Do not work the paper into the paint , DO NOT press your fingertips hard into the foam block and always keep the rubber blocks completely flat working one direction . The rubber blocks skip easily when working in two directions . Let the paper glide over the paint and let the paper do the work

- Check your progress VERY often , keep the panel wet while working and as soon as finish is flat with 3000 grit , stop and rinse off .

- Open all panels that you can while working the edges . I.E. Leave hood propped while doing fenders . Only pass over edges maybe once or twice ONLY in one direction ever with 3000 grit . They are thinner than the rest . Should be no need to do them at all really especially since you don't want to compound the edges .

- Change paper every two fenders or after hood size area is done . Keep as many papers soaked in bucket overnight as you need . I guess estimated approximately 8-10

Once entire car is flat no low spots and no gloss left completly wash it and rinse out every single crevice .

You would have to compound with a rotary I am 99% sure at about 900-1200 rpm's with an orange or green pad . try green 1st



I advise against wetsanding really though because the thicker the clear the more protection even if it's uneven . Against UV , chemicals , bird isht and rock chips
 
I saw this thread and thought I might jump in with a couple of more questions. First, this website is the only place I've ever heard of OP. From reading the thread my understanding of OP is that the paint is uneven maybe even dimpled like the peel of an orange. Is that correct? Second, I'm wondering if you experience OP on a new car has anyone heard of the manufacturer be willing to correct this under warranty?
 
Mikeyc said:
I saw this thread and thought I might jump in with a couple of more questions. First, this website is the only place I've ever heard of OP. From reading the thread my understanding of OP is that the paint is uneven maybe even dimpled like the peel of an orange. Is that correct? Second, I'm wondering if you experience OP on a new car has anyone heard of the manufacturer be willing to correct this under warranty?
Click to expand...





yes that is correct. Look at a reflected object through your car's paint, and you'll almost certainly see that the image is distorted, rather than the crisp, sharp image you'd see if the paint were perfectly smooth.



The manufacturers are not concerned with OP. It happens on almost every new car when they are painted. Some makes are worse than others. The overwhelming majority of the population has never heard of OP, nor do they care about it.
 
papi_jay said:
Two things I learned quickly while working at a body shop . I learned these during the time that I " was left alone " to do a job and messed it up . Me being the hardhead I am and laying each and every freakin detail out step by step before I go at a job , I refused to believe that it was my fault . Turns out really it wasn't .

1.) 3m rubber blocks you would imagine are made for body shops and perfectly flat .

~ They are not flat at all

2.) The foam blocks they sell for curves and edges are proper for entire body jobs .

~ They are not your fingers press into them too much





Now for an OEM paint job , yes 2500 UNIGRIT - 3000 is necessary

For custom paint where you know you will be wetsanding and laying on excess clear just for the task we used 1200 up to 2500 .



My boss showed me to the back room and I layed eyes on flexible urethane blocks for fender curves and such that work with long rolls of sandpaper . I used 1200 and 1500 grit .

Well I am about to carry on lol , but here are the items needed besides and intense knowledge and feel for colorsanding



1. ) DuraBlock sanding set for odd areas and to mate to rounded body lines



Cheaper here NOTE : I cut the long block to 5-6" size when using 9" long sanding papers



2.) A flexible foam block not squishy as normal foam blocks ( $1.50 3m and Meg's )



3. ) A true-Flat sanding block the 5" one works with unigrit's 9" long sheets



OEM paint job - 2500 grit only where orange peel is prominent , 4-5 passes bi-directionally and squeegee away water and wipe excess water and check progress . I use the foam block as my squeegee .

WHen you see very little gloss in the low spots , start with the 3000 grit and work only one direction ( I usually pull the block towards me ) .

- soak papers overnight in lukewarm water with 1 ounce of meguiar's 00 wash or even Dawn liquid works .

- Fold ALL edges of paper into the block and hold the side edges onto the block . You can get issues with the edge of the paper catching even if soaked .

- Do not work the paper into the paint , DO NOT press your fingertips hard into the foam block and always keep the rubber blocks completely flat working one direction . The rubber blocks skip easily when working in two directions . Let the paper glide over the paint and let the paper do the work

- Check your progress VERY often , keep the panel wet while working and as soon as finish is flat with 3000 grit , stop and rinse off .

- Open all panels that you can while working the edges . I.E. Leave hood propped while doing fenders . Only pass over edges maybe once or twice ONLY in one direction ever with 3000 grit . They are thinner than the rest . Should be no need to do them at all really especially since you don't want to compound the edges .

- Change paper every two fenders or after hood size area is done . Keep as many papers soaked in bucket overnight as you need . I guess estimated approximately 8-10

Once entire car is flat no low spots and no gloss left completly wash it and rinse out every single crevice .

You would have to compound with a rotary I am 99% sure at about 900-1200 rpm's with an orange or green pad . try green 1st



I advise against wetsanding really though because the thicker the clear the more protection even if it's uneven . Against UV , chemicals , bird isht and rock chips
Click to expand...



Thank you very much for the link and good write up.



:D
 
I recently tried this and actually burned through my paint, I used 2000 grit and then followed with Optimum polish compound with a meguiars cuttin pad.



Any ideas, I am going to go with 3000 grit now and a polishing pad.
 
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