michakaveli
New member
I had a chance to perform a glass "restoration" on my 1st customer's vehicle. Party happens to be my neighbor and was seeking a basic wash & wax, well I up sold on the wax and also a glass refresher. I noticed the last time I washed the car, Dodge Magnum, that the windows had some very healthy water etching/spotting. If you dragged your finger across the glass it felt like a car with it's parking brake engaged.
Anywho, the customer wanted a decal applied to the rear window, and I pointed out the water marks. I cleared the area where she wanted the decal applied and called her over to show her the difference, this service was now added to the "wash & wax" :thumb:
I initially tackled the glass with Optimum's Poli-Seal and an orange CCS pad via Makita 9227c. This had gotten the initial area cleared, but it was really taking an effort and appeared that it was not as effective as it was on the first spot. So, I grabbed my trusty bottle of Klasse AIO and on another pad tackled the glass. Definitely you could tell that the Klasse was working it's magic. It did take some effort, but overall the Klasse ran circles around the Poli-Seal product. I've read in other threads that the Poli-Seal "protection" lasts longer than the Klasse AIO, and that it had more aggressive micro-abrasives (per Dr. G from the AutoGeek Detail Fest), hence my eagerness to finally try it and see how it compares to Klasse AIO.
Figured I'd post my results. I've added a couple pictures of the before & after. Enjoy!
*** Additional Notes ***
I concentrated on smaller sections, say 12"x12" or so. It's a delicate balance as it does dry fairly quickly. I started out by spreading the product on my work area with the machine off, then turned it on on speed 1 to spread it around in a cross-hatch pattern, and then side to side mostly at a very slowly pace, with the speeds ranging from 2-3.5. It appeared that as soon as the surface got a dose of the wet Klasse product it was clearing the water spotting away. There is also a point where faster the RPM's on the Makita did not yield faster results, only faster drying of the product on the glass. Also, once the product had dried on the glass, it wasn't as effective as a nice pass of wet product from the pad.
I tried to keep the amount of product fairly liberal as it spreads quickly on the glass and dries out. I was making a fairly large thin swirl of product onto the pad and then proceeding with spreading, etc.... Definitely liberal amounts of Klasse was the key. The corners and areas unable to reach with the machine I did by hand. Wasn't that bad at all, but I wouldn't think of doing the whole window by hand
Anywho, the customer wanted a decal applied to the rear window, and I pointed out the water marks. I cleared the area where she wanted the decal applied and called her over to show her the difference, this service was now added to the "wash & wax" :thumb:
I initially tackled the glass with Optimum's Poli-Seal and an orange CCS pad via Makita 9227c. This had gotten the initial area cleared, but it was really taking an effort and appeared that it was not as effective as it was on the first spot. So, I grabbed my trusty bottle of Klasse AIO and on another pad tackled the glass. Definitely you could tell that the Klasse was working it's magic. It did take some effort, but overall the Klasse ran circles around the Poli-Seal product. I've read in other threads that the Poli-Seal "protection" lasts longer than the Klasse AIO, and that it had more aggressive micro-abrasives (per Dr. G from the AutoGeek Detail Fest), hence my eagerness to finally try it and see how it compares to Klasse AIO.
Figured I'd post my results. I've added a couple pictures of the before & after. Enjoy!
*** Additional Notes ***
I concentrated on smaller sections, say 12"x12" or so. It's a delicate balance as it does dry fairly quickly. I started out by spreading the product on my work area with the machine off, then turned it on on speed 1 to spread it around in a cross-hatch pattern, and then side to side mostly at a very slowly pace, with the speeds ranging from 2-3.5. It appeared that as soon as the surface got a dose of the wet Klasse product it was clearing the water spotting away. There is also a point where faster the RPM's on the Makita did not yield faster results, only faster drying of the product on the glass. Also, once the product had dried on the glass, it wasn't as effective as a nice pass of wet product from the pad.
I tried to keep the amount of product fairly liberal as it spreads quickly on the glass and dries out. I was making a fairly large thin swirl of product onto the pad and then proceeding with spreading, etc.... Definitely liberal amounts of Klasse was the key. The corners and areas unable to reach with the machine I did by hand. Wasn't that bad at all, but I wouldn't think of doing the whole window by hand
