Okay, settled on Makita 9227 + GG 6", now on to Pads & Polishes!

A

ahheck01

New member
I first want to say a huge thanks to all of you who have contributed to this forum - what an incredible resource for detailers at every level!



Thanks to the input I've received both in person and on this forum, I've decided to graduate from my 5 year old PC to a combination of the Makita 9227CX3 rotary and the Griot's 6" Random Orbital with the longer cord.



I find that the typical job I get requires pretty heavy cutting/correction. I will be spending plenty of time mastering the rotary, so I'd like to use that for everything but finishing and applying LSP's. I'd like to have the necessary array of full size pads, but also have a few small pads (3-4"?) for the tighter spots on the cars.



Same situation with the GG6 too. There are soooo many opinions out there - Cost is an issue, but I'm looking to go with what works. Track record is important. I'd prefer input from someone who uses a very similar setup.



Finally, what polishes and compounds do you use with the recommended pads?



I know this topic isn't exciting to discuss, but it's a vital piece to the puzzle, and the biggest unknown for me.



Many thanks in advance!
 
I can't believe I am about to type this.... I have a Makita and a GG, having the Makita around is nice but I will be honest, I rarely use it anymore. The GG with the right compound, pad, and technique cuts just as well for me as the Makita. The Makita can do it more quickly, but the followup tends to bring the time difference to almost nil. If I were you (just a suggestion), I'd grab a GG and the appropriate pads, and see how I felt with it re: cut. If you're unhappy, get the Makita too, but I wouldn't do both at the same time only expecting to use the GG for finishing/sealing.



Don't get me wrong, I absolutely love my Makita. Whenever I use it I feel comfortable, it cuts well, I can finish nicely with it, etc... but the DA is just...well, easier (imo), and works just as well given current products.



So, I'd personally grab a Megs BP, a whole whack of Megs MF cutting discs, then some of the currently on sale 3d foam pads and go to town with M105, D300, Uno, and 106fa/8rd. That combo of products and pads will do just about anything you need to do efficiently and well, ime.
 
Hmm, that may be more cost effective, and leave room for an air compressor... although I was really wanting to get into rotary usage for the speed.



When you say a whole whack - if you were going to do one full tough job a week, what should be my pad arsenal? How many uses should I expect to get out of them? What supplies should I have for proper pad care?
 
Ahheck01 said:
Hmm, that may be more cost effective, and leave room for an air compressor... although I was really wanting to get into rotary usage for the speed.



When you say a whole whack - if you were going to do one full tough job a week, what should be my pad arsenal? How many uses should I expect to get out of them? What supplies should I have for proper pad care?
Click to expand...



If I had one hammered car in a week I would definitely want the following.



Megs 105

Megs D300

HD Uno

106fa and/or po8rd and/or fpII



A GG 6" with a Megs BP (and the GG BP)

4-5 surfbuf pads

4+ Megs cutting discs (if you have compressed air 4 would likely do, more if not). Why? They clean amazingly well with compressed air and they will do a very large section of the car if you clean them after every pass.

LC Flat orange, 4

LC flat black 2

LC flat blue 2



Now the LCs can likely be replaced by the 3d HD pads. Why didn't I mention them? I haven't tried them (have 6 of each on the way), but I've heard they are a lot like LC flats, which I like.



In terms of uses, any and all of these pads should last 10+ job (usually a lot more). With the mgs discs compressed air is the best way to clean them, imo. With the surfbuf and LC pads I use a washing machine, warm water, regular detergent, air dry.



I'm pretty confident that'd get you through just about anything. You have a good amount of pads and compounds, lots of options depending on condition and paint. I'd like to have abralon sandpaper around too but that's just me.
 
Okay, So probably go with the Meguiars #105, D300, and Menzerna PO85RD.

I found the Microfiber 6" Cutting Discs for $22 for 2 of them - so 4 (2x2) of those, right? It says they need the 6" Meguiars Unigrit backing plate. Will this work for all other pads suggested? For example, the HD Uno pads come in 5.5" and 7.5" - it would seem one is too small and one too big for the 6" Meguiars backing plate?



So, before the LC or HD Uno Pads, I've got:



Meguiars 6" MF Cutting Discs x 4 = $44

Meguiars 6" Unigrit Backing Plate = $32

Surbuf MF 6.5" Buffing Pads x 4 = $30



Crud. I'm going to spend $200 just on pads, aren't I...
 
Ahheck01 said:
Okay, So probably go with the Meguiars #105, D300, and Menzerna PO85RD.

I found the Microfiber 6" Cutting Discs for $22 for 2 of them - so 4 (2x2) of those, right? It says they need the 6" Meguiars Unigrit backing plate. Will this work for all other pads suggested? For example, the HD Uno pads come in 5.5" and 7.5" - it would seem one is too small and one too big for the 6" Meguiars backing plate?



So, before the LC or HD Uno Pads, I've got:



Meguiars 6" MF Cutting Discs x 4 = $44

Meguiars 6" Unigrit Backing Plate = $32

Surbuf MF 6.5" Buffing Pads x 4 = $30



Crud. I'm going to spend $200 just on pads, aren't I...
Click to expand...



Megs has two BPs you can use with the MF discs, depending on size. For the 5" pads you want the W67DA bp, for the 6" pads the S6BP. Now, the S6BP is 5.75", and HD recommends max 5.5" with their 5.5 pads, so there could be a conflict there. As mentioned, I have not used the HD pads, only the 6" LC (which fit fine on the S6BP). So, I guess to pair it down you could get two packs of megs cutting discs, one s6bp, 4 surfbuf, then the appropriate LC pads (a few orange, white, and black). You could substitute some of the LC with the megs finishing discs if you like (I find them equivalent to LC orange for cut/finish). Yes, to stock up on pads and BOs, ime, you will spend a couple hundred bucks. Maybe someone else has some input.
 
Sounds good. Could you clarify the function of each pad? The polishes are clear, but you have cutting discs, surbuf pads, and orange pads which all seem to have similar functions. Since I'm going for budget-conscious, I'm not terribly excited about a whole lot of duplicated functionality.
 
I'm wondering too - what if I was to just use what I have with the PC for finishing, and go all-rotary - might it actually be cheaper or no-more expensive when it comes to rotary pads and backing plates? What would be the recommendation for those?



Edit: Okay, I've seen some shining recommendations for Dynabrade rotaries too - I guess my question now is this:



If I were to go nearly all-rotary, which rotary would be best, and what should my pad arsenal be for it? Can I use the polishes suggested above still?



Many Thanks!
 
I've seen two makitas puke after less than a year, that's why I bought a DeWalt. Only now, there's a new DeWalt that's lighter, more powerful and doesn't cost a fortune like Flex. Check it out.
 
JuneBug said:
I've seen two makitas puke after less than a year, that's why I bought a DeWalt. Only now, there's a new DeWalt that's lighter, more powerful and doesn't cost a fortune like Flex. Check it out.
Click to expand...
Interesting. I've seen Makita and Dynabrade recommended on here more frequently. What are the trade-offs? What model number is the new one?
 
Makita gets more forum time cause if you look at the specs - it's lighter and has a wider rpm range than the DeWalt. But, guys that USE a rotary know the DeWalt is tougher and has a better balance (IMHO). The upgraded deWalt covers the weight and range issues. Google DWP849X and see where you get the best deal. I have the older version and I like it, I did own a Makita for a while but sold it to get that DA Flex everybody "had" to have a few years back, I hated that thing and traded it for a Cyclo. I missed the rotary and after seeing 2 buddies have Makita troubles, I decided to get the Dewalt, now, i don't regret that decision at all. For my use, it's perfect. But, if I was getting one, naturally, I'd get the newer model.
 
I *use* a rotary and like my Makita. :p I am looking forward to trying the new Dewalt, though. FWIW, I've had the Makita 8 years, no issues, countless hours. (just occasional cord and brush replacement).
 
Newbie here chiming in on pad size for the griots. Experimented with 6.5", 5.5", and 4" pads on a pretty hammered hood of a nhbp civic si (read really soft paint).

M105 on Cyan hydrotechs

M205 on Tangerine hydrotechs

PO85RD on Crimson hydrotechs



6.5" would still correct but not as well as the others. Oddly, when heavy pressure was applied the 6.5" would keep spinning better than the 4", maybe because of rotational mass and inertia? The griots is pretty stout so take quite a bit of pressure to get the BP spinning slowly. I found the 5.5" to be the best size for coverage on the small car, while retaining maneuverability. Correcting ability didn't seem different from the 4" pads while doing whole sections.



M205 on tangerine really finishes out good for me. My eyes could not see a difference after the PO85RD.
 
For rotary - I use the EVO backing plate CG sells, it's thick and works great with 5.5" pads, I don't like to use large pads - unless I'm doing a boat and then it's 7.5" wool baby! Get a little backing plate for the 3-4" pads that work on headlights so well.
 
Forgot to add, foam pads - get 3D's 5.5" flat pads, I like the simplicity of having 3 that cover all the bases.
 
Okay, what about wool? I see a lot of jobs on the Pro before/after section where the damage wasn't as bad as what I often see, and they said they needed to go straight for the wool pad + compound? Should I have this on hand?
 
Personally, I don't use wool except on gel coat. If I run accross a car with issues, I'll wet sand with 2000 or 1500 grit then polish. I feel it's actually taking less clear since you're targeting specific places instead of carpet bombing with wool. But that's me, and the old story that if you put 10 detailers on a car, you'll get 10 opinions - well that story is true, you have to find the technique that feels best for you. There's many ways to get the same results. Don't stick with something if it doesn't quite feel right. If somebody shows me a new technique or product, I'll keep an open mind and try it. Lately, I've used my rotary with a soft finishing pad and UNO v3 with very good results, keep the speed around 1000 rpm and move it slowly and let the pad do the work.
 
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