NSX Detailing

skyguyz

skyguyz

New member
My 91 NSX is getting the detailing it so deserves. I'm not new to cleaning a car and have read volumes on the exterior detaling process.
Having removed the seats and detailed the cockpit and engine compartment,
under hood, etc I'm now ready for the exterior, (Yes, the wheels/tires have been removed and detailed today.) There are many "recipes" for exterior detailing and......

My question is this:

My paint is in "good" condition with minimal swirls, etc. Is my recipe below sound like a good one or not?

-Using a Porter-Cable 7424 with 6" counterweight
-using all "Edge 2000 pads" 6"

-Start with Edge green pad, (light cut) with Meg's #9 swirl remover
-next using Edge blue pad, (non-abrasive) with Meg's #3 Machine glaze
-next using Edge white pad, (ultra fine) with Meg's #26 Hi-tech wax
-remove Meg's #26 Hi-tech wax with MF.

*All trim and badges, etc to be 3M blue taped prior to doing job.
*Using 2 500 watt halogen work lights

I have Edge yellow pad, (medium cut) and Menzerna intensive polish. This I will not use. It's for the "Other" car with scratches, big swirls etc.

So, Does this recipe sound good or what else should I use/do?

Thank You in advance for your reply!

Skyguyz


*Pics included are of my NSX not detailed.
*Click on pics for larger view.
 
Not familiar with all of these products so I'll let someone else tackle it....but nice HOOTERS, I mean car:) Can't wait to see the final product. You should also post some close-ups of the paint. It'll be good for you to have as well, I'm sure you will notice a big difference. Don't forget to clay!!!!! That should be first on the recipe list.
 
hopefully #9 will tackle the job!! prep prep prep!!!

BTW, useless trivia comin atchya. I think honda/acura used a tinted clear coat on that NSX you got there. I believe they tinted the clear with purple to give it an extra little pop!! purple or pink,,,cant remember...but either way a really interesting concept?!?
 
karll said:
hopefully #9 will tackle the job!! prep prep prep!!!

BTW, useless trivia comin atchya. I think honda/acura used a tinted clear coat on that NSX you got there. I believe they tinted the clear with purple to give it an extra little pop!! purple or pink,,,cant remember...but either way a really interesting concept?!?
Click to expand...


maybe GSRstilez can help ya out with that red paint....I;m wondering if his acura has the tinted clear??
 
Meguiars #9 should be used after #3. In fact I personally would not use #9 as it has fillers and very mild polishing properties.

Best bet is Intensive polish.
 
Bell said:
Meguiars #9 should be used after #3. In fact I personally would not use #9 as it has fillers and very mild polishing properties.

Best bet is Intensive polish.
Click to expand...

Sorry, wrong order. The #9 goes before the #3. The #9 is designed to remove light swirling/imperfections and the #3 is an optional final step before waxing/sealing. If you don't like the #9 because of 'fillers' (AKA Megs Trade Secret Polishing Oils) you'd hate the #3, because basically that's all it's composed of.

According to Megs, their pure polishes like the #3 are designed to fill the micro cracks & imperfections in the paint surface to give the wettest/deepest look possible before final sealing.

skyguyz

Your plan sounds good to me as a starting point. After using the #9 with the light cut pad, re-evaluate the surface to se if the swirls are gone. If Yes, continue to the next step (the #3) if No, then either give it another go with the #9 OR move up to the next level of pad (medium cut) or cleaner (#83 DACP)
 
If the #9 removes the minor swirls, that in itself will leave a great look to top with #26.
I personally have not had very good luck using #3 Machine Glaze with the PC, It does work great with the rotary buffer though. The #26 will give you a nice wet look on that color. The only issue I have with #26 is its durability.
 
Don said:
Sorry, wrong order. The #9 goes before the #3. The #9 is designed to remove light swirling/imperfections and the #3 is an optional final step before waxing/sealing. If you don't like the #9 because of 'fillers' (AKA Megs Trade Secret Polishing Oils) you'd hate the #3, because basically that's all it's composed of.

According to Megs, their pure polishes like the #3 are designed to fill the micro cracks & imperfections in the paint surface to give the wettest/deepest look possible before final sealing.

skyguyz

Your plan sounds good to me as a starting point. After using the #9 with the light cut pad, re-evaluate the surface to se if the swirls are gone. If Yes, continue to the next step (the #3) if No, then either give it another go with the #9 OR move up to the next level of pad (medium cut) or cleaner (#83 DACP)
Click to expand...

The use of both #3 and #9 on the same car at the same time is pointless as either one will remove the other, that's my point.

Both clean, although I do believe the #3 is paintable. I personally much prefer the #3 over the #9, especially if using a rotary. I do not have a PC
 
I haven't used those products either but would use clay first.
Post some before and afters if you can.
It is warm enough today to get the leatherique on my seats!
 
Hey,

Just to clarify....

Meguiar's #3 Machine Glaze and #9 Swirl Remover are two very different products.

Meguiar's #3 Machine Glaze is a Pure Polish with no cleaning abilities. Its job is to add a richness and beautify the paint's surface. It was designed to be applied by machine, but works very well with the PC or by hand.

Meguiar's #9 Swirl Remover is a very mild cleaner/polish. It will remove light swirls, but tends to perform best with a rotary if used for swirl removal. But for cleaning the surface, prior to applying a pure polish or Last Step Product, then #9 would be an excellent choice. Meguiar's #9 uses TS Oils to help "buffer" the diminishing abrasives while buffing.

There is nothing wrong at all with using #3 on top of #9. I have used that very combination for years with great success! :)

Tim
Meguiar's Online Super Moderator
 
OK,
This forum is great! You guys are providing just the type of info I'm looking for.

After reading the posts here. I've decided that Claying is the missing step. So.....I bought some Meg's clay and just got done.
So far:
Step 1 = Wash
Step 2 = Clay (Meg's clay & Meg's quick detailer as lube)
step 3 = car cover and rest for now

Pics of the NSX detail quest:

pics 1 & 2 after clapics 3 & 4 after wash
 
PT91-Yeah My wife had me drive her to a store for shopping and I noticed a car show at Hooters next door and well, uh I said I'll check out the car show while she's shopping and when I picked her up she asked "How was the show?'
I showed her the pics (digital camera was onboard) and she just let a little steam out of her ears......

Oh yeah, The clay removed some contaniments, but my paint was in pretty good condition. My supplies arrive monday and that's when I'll start phase 3. I'm leaning on using Meg's #81 rather than #3. Still undecided.

More pics to come.

Skyguy
 
Hey,

Meguiar's #81 Hand Polish was designed, like the rest of the 80 series, for BC/CC paint. You can wipe it off a little easier than the #3 Machine Glaze. As I said, #3 will work just fine, but #81 is indeed easier to work with. Both are pure polishes that will add more richness to the surface.


Tim
Meguiar's Online Super Moderator
 
Complete redo/thinking

OK,

So my goal is to not mess this exterior detail up, especially on an Exotic like my NSX. So.......

-Car has been washed using Zymol
-Car has been clayed using Meg's clay and is under car cover now

Question: Should I have used Dawn to wash with? (wax removal)

Question: Claying went fine, except still some slight "specks" using baggie test; Should I clay again?

I have Menzerna Intensive Polish and thinking Meg's #80 speed/mirror glaze,

*(I returned the Meg's # 3 machine glaze as it's for orbital machine, not DA machine...DOH!!!)

See below info on Menzerna Intensive Polish, Quote:

From anyone else, Menzerna Intensive Polish would be called an abrasive compound. It removes 2000 grit sanding traces, swirls and paint defects. Menzerna calls it a polish because it removes these defects with minimum or no loss of surface gloss. On most light colors you can go from Intensive Polish directly to finishing with your favorite wax or sealant. On dark color paints, a subsequent once over with Menzerna Final Polish will produce a completely swirl-free, high gloss surface. Not only that, it can be used on freshly painted surfaces with or without a clear coat. While this accomplishment isn't turning lead into gold, it's as close to alchemy as you can get in the car care business.

Intensive Polish is a compound that thinks it's a polish. It's extremely forgiving and, unless pushed hard, actually removes minor swirls and paint defects without a trace of surface haze. This is the best polish I have ever used with the Porter Cable 7424 when it comes to actually removing swirls and minor paint defects.

-Using The edge light cut green foam pad.

which product is advisable?
Menzerna intensive polish or Meg's #80 speed glaze?

*See attached pics of finish after claying.

Step 2-Meg's #9 SR.
Question: Should I use the edge blue pad non-abrasive, (pre-wax cleaning pad)
or stick with the edge green pad, (light -cut for removing light to moderate swirls and clear coat safe) ?

*Edge 200 pads are 2 sided.

step 3- Meg's # 26 Hi-Tech yellow wax
(liquid product) applied with PC 7424 and the edge white finish pad. Remove with 100% cotton terry towel.

Question on step #3: Is 3 coats overkill and should I consider wax removal with the PC" bonnet"?

step 4- 1 hand done NXT wax finish

Question: Is the NXT wax neccesary?

Finish black trim with Mother's Back to Black.

As always, Thanks in advance for the wonderful replies.

Skyguy
 
Re: Complete redo/thinking

If you still feel contaminants in the paint, I would re-clay these areas. Chances are that it wouldn't take much time if you've already clayed and you are looking for perfection right?:)

I wouldn't recommend using terry towel for removal, I'd use a much softer MF just to be safe.

3 coats of sealant is not overkill, just more protection and reflection.....but remember some sealants need 24hrs between coats to cure. Topping with your fav wax will add some depth (a good thing-IMO) and add to the durability. I think you will like the results, Hope this helps a bit.
 
Blacksunshine,

Er, uhh yeah, I meant remove wax with MF, not terry. Sometimes we type and don't think......

Regards,

Skyguy
 
Are your plans to use IP?
I am a big fan of menzerna IP and FP. On black, I can really see the difference that FP makes.
Looks like you are having fun.
 
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