05Sleeper- I've had a *lot* of Audis repainted. First off, I sure hope they used Spies-Hecker paint, that's what comes on Audis and is also what oughta be used to redo them. One of the characteristics of this paint is its hardness, and waxing/sealing too soo can keep fresh paint from attaining full hardness. Even with oven baking, S-H continues to outgas for well over a month, often longer than two months.
I use Meg's #5. Great on fresh paint, very user-friendly, and much better IMO (did side-by-side tests) than the other usual recommendation- 3M IHG. Use this for a couple of months or so (I go three months but winter's coming). It's hard to find, but Meg's distributors can order it or you can get it from Meg's direct.
Yeah, just the glaze, no topper, every time you wash. And wash frequently so you can always be gentle about it. The #80 is good but contains abrasives you might not need. I always have it around, but I generally don't use it until the paint has cured most of the way. I wouldn't use it every time, that's for sure.
I would not use any QD on it as a) you don't want to leave wax on the surface and many contain it- if you *must* use something use Meg's #34 Final Inspection and b) the paint won't be fully hardened so using a QD to clean between washes will probably mar it. One exception is birdbombs, which can etch the paint- I'd rather have scratches than etching. Use the #34 and/or rubbing alcohol for that but be gentle. I use my wife's cotton makeup balls and *lots* of #34. I let the #34 do the work (dissolve the stuff) and just blot rather than wipe.
Kraig- If it were *mine* I'd use a paint cleaner to remove the wax and then use Meguiar's #5/#3/#81/#7/Deep Crystal#2 (that's in order of preference) on it until the paint has cured. But then I'm pretty conservative about such things.
Wonder if they literally used "wax"? People use all sorts of words in all sorts of ways and shops often assume their customers don't know the diff between wax/glaze/sealant/etc.