Newbie to polishing - looking for some strong guidance

A

Adam_W

New member
hi,

I need some specific guidance.

Some context:

I owned a black Corvette Z06 and detailed it (foam gun, two bucket, CR spotless, leafblower, The Absorber, sealants like Blackfire Crystal Seal etc), but I never ventured into clay bar or polish.

I've sold the Z06 and now have commuter cars (Camry, Hyundai Sonata), but I have previously spent enough money on high-end detailing/paint correction that I've decided that I want to be able to remove swirls and apply sealants or waxes myself, at home with a DA polisher.

I've looked through a lot of website and reviews about the major devices (Porter Cable, Griots, Flex, Meguairs) and various tables on the different polish brands (megauirs, Menzerna etc). (I realize that my questions below have been answered in different ways in a gazillion posts in the archives, but I'd like an answer that directly addresses my questions.)

I'd probably be fine with a Griot's 6 inch but am willing to spend the extra $$$ to move up to a Flex.

As for polishes, my interactions with high end detailers and much of my reading online makes me want to go with Menzerna products. I did, however, read this blog post that makes me wonder if I should go with Meguair's:

Polishing Supplies for Experts and Beginners | Ask a Pro Blog


So here are my questions:

1. Any reason I should seriously consider the Griot's over the Flex other than cost and the warranty?

2. Should I go with Menzerna line or Meguair's ? (see blog link above)

3. Most importantly can you give me a comprehensive shopping list of all the stuff I should buy to get me started, because I can't tell if I should be getting a combo kit from Autopia or Autogeek vs. buying things piecemeal. Lot of people say that those combos have items you don't need that drive up the price.

When I say a shopping list, I mean every little thing, so that when I set aside a day to prep my car and begin to polish, I won't suddenly realize that I forgot to buy a new clay bar or a 3rd orange pad or pad cleaner or the machine with the 25 foot cable or something else.

For example:

What masking tape to use?
Specific clay bar or clay cloth or clay glove?
DA machine - Flex > griot's ?
What specific polishes? (I'm thinking 2 step rather than 3 step, leaning toward Menzerna)
For the polish you are recommending, what pads/backing plates/bonnets do I need? Need to know brand and size.
What pad cleaners?
If there is a combo pack you would recommend that has some/most of the stuff you recommend, I'd appreciate that.


I realize that there are lots of ways to achieve great results, and that there is a ton of info out there, but I just need a single shopping list that works well for you and that is inclusive, i.e. to keep it simple, because when I research this stuff individually, it's all fragmented and I can't tell if the compound polish from this blog post will work with the finishing polish with that post and if the required pad from this post will work well with the aggressiveness of the polish from that post.

Thank you !
 
Ill help out with the first 2.

1. I own the griots and the Rupes LHR15. Now my go to is the Rupes but there is nothing wrong with the Griots 6 inch. It's got a ton of power, easy to use and it works great even on hard paints. The Flex will be more of a learning curve, but will offer more correction ability than any DA polisher due to it's forced rotation. That being said for most vehicles you can spend a little extra time with a DA and accomplish as much as a the Flex would. If this is your first polisher I would recommend the Griots. If you like it and continue to find use for it then get the flex as well.

side note - get 2 backing plates for the griots (any DA backing plate from Lake Country or Buff and Shine)
- 5 inch and a 3 or 3.5 inch
- get 2 of every pad, to avoid having to wash mid-way through a detail

2. This is really up to you. I use both. As for prodcuts, M105 and M205 will handle a lot. On black paints you might want to add a good finishing polish like Menzerna SF4000 or HD Polish. If money isn't a problem, Menzerna FG400 is like combining M105 and M205 into one ploish.

3. I'll let someone else help out here

For me;
- get a lot of MF towels, take whatever you think you'll need and add more
Clay Bar
- CarPro mf clay towel
- Nanoskin clay (the foam pad thing)
- Mothers clay block (can get almost anywhere)
- Nanoskin Glide for clay lube or car wash soap if it's done right after a wash
(just pick one, probably fine grade unless your working on older vehicles)


Correction
- Meg MF cutting pads all the way (honestly there is nothing better for a DA)
- green polishing pads for light corrections
- HD Adapt for a lot of correction or M205
- If it really needs it M105 or FG400

Finishing
- Black or blue finishing pads for final polishes
- M205 on lighter colors
- HD Polish on darker colors

Wax/Sealant
- foam applicator
- Menzerna Polymer Sealant and ColorLock Wax (durability or wet look)
- Carpro silica spray sealant if I don't do any correction work and want to save time (diluted 4:1 in a spray bottle)

This is just paint correction or protection. Remember take you time with a DA, slow and steady is faster than having to go back and re-do! Just have fun and try things out, find out what you like! I would advise ordering smaller sizes of products and then when you find some you love... get the bigger bottles. Brands I usually use for polishes are menzerna, megs and HD. I'll use checmical guys for soaps and glass cleaner.
 
chuck2417 said:
Ill help out with the first 2.

1. I own the griots and the Rupes LHR15. Now my go to is the Rupes but there is nothing wrong with the Griots 6 inch. It's got a ton of power, easy to use and it works great even on hard paints. The Flex will be more of a learning curve, but will offer more correction ability than any DA polisher due to it's forced rotation. That being said for most vehicles you can spend a little extra time with a DA and accomplish as much as a the Flex would. If this is your first polisher I would recommend the Griots. If you like it and continue to find use for it then get the flex as well.

side note - get 2 backing plates for the griots (any DA backing plate from Lake Country or Buff and Shine)
- 5 inch and a 3 or 3.5 inch
- get 2 of every pad, to avoid having to wash mid-way through a detail

2. This is really up to you. I use both. As for prodcuts, M105 and M205 will handle a lot. On black paints you might want to add a good finishing polish like Menzerna SF4000 or HD Polish. If money isn't a problem, Menzerna FG400 is like combining M105 and M205 into one ploish.

3. I'll let someone else help out here

For me;
- get a lot of MF towels, take whatever you think you'll need and add more
Clay Bar
- CarPro mf clay towel
- Nanoskin clay (the foam pad thing)
- Mothers clay block (can get almost anywhere)
- Nanoskin Glide for clay lube or car wash soap if it's done right after a wash
(just pick one, probably fine grade unless your working on older vehicles)


Correction
- Meg MF cutting pads all the way (honestly there is nothing better for a DA)
- green polishing pads for light corrections
- HD Adapt for a lot of correction or M205
- If it really needs it M105 or FG400

Finishing
- Black or blue finishing pads for final polishes
- M205 on lighter colors
- HD Polish on darker colors

Wax/Sealant
- foam applicator
- Menzerna Polymer Sealant and ColorLock Wax (durability or wet look)
- Carpro silica spray sealant if I don't do any correction work and want to save time (diluted 4:1 in a spray bottle)

This is just paint correction or protection. Remember take you time with a DA, slow and steady is faster than having to go back and re-do! Just have fun and try things out, find out what you like! I would advise ordering smaller sizes of products and then when you find some you love... get the bigger bottles. Brands I usually use for polishes are menzerna, megs and HD. I'll use checmical guys for soaps and glass cleaner.
Click to expand...

There is a lot of great recommendations here. I have the Flex 3401 and a couple of Harbor Freight DA's. As a beginner I agree with Chuck that I would probably start with a traditional DA and then move up to the Flex later. I like having both. I use the HF for lighter correction and applying polishes, glazes,etc. If money is an issue, the Harbor Freight DA is really a good machine for the money once you replace the backing plate. I have a lot of hours on mine and have not had any trouble with it at all. You can pick one up for about $50 -$60. I like mine better than the 2 Porter Cables that I have. I have one set up for 5.5" pads and another for 4" pads which you will need to get into tight places

The 3401 definitely has more correcting power and particularly works a lot better at correcting on models with hard paint such as Mercedes, Corvettes,etc. I would recommend switching to a 5" backing plate so that you can use a smaller 5.5" pad which is easier to control. I like Buff & Shine Microfiber Pads for cutting with the 3401. For lighter correction I use the Lake Country Hydro Tangerine pads and for finishing I like the Crimson Hydro Pads.

As far as compounds and polishes go - I like the 3M line. HD Cut and HD Polish for 2 steps and HD Adapt for 1 steps. Meguiars M105 and M205 are also great for most paints. For finicky paints that won't finish down with the 205 the HD Polish will usually do a good job.

As previously stated - buy lots of Microfiber towels. High Grade plush towels for paint and general grade towels for wheels, tires, interior etc. You can never have too many microfibers. For claying - I like the Speedy Prep Fine Grade Towel. It is much faster than a traditional claybar and is very durable.

There are a ton of good choices for sealants and waxes. I like Duragloss 105 as a sealant, 3M HD Poxy is great as it is kind of a combination of a sealant and a wax and really looks good on dark colors. If you are looking for a durable wax Collinite 845 can't be beat. Poor boys has a complete product line that is outstanding. They have great sealants and their Nattys Blue wax is almost legendary - especially for the price.

I know that I have not answered all your questions. These suggestions are just some of the products that I have found that have worked well for me.
I am sure that the very knowledgeable professionals on this forum will be able to give you further guidance.
 
Thanks guys/gals, that's really helpful, i.e. what you have found to be useful.

I'm ready to spend the money on the FLEX but given what you are saying I might start out with Griot's.

Please keep the advice/comments coming.
 
Go with the Flex, if your going for the long haul. All of my equipment is exclusively FLEX. The pros use the best. Simply said. The technology is hands down superior in my opinion. In terms of chemicals, you need to experiment and use what gives you the best results. This is a subject that can be discussed indefinitely, you realize. The opinions are endless. Good luck! "Paintxpert" Shine Since 1969
 
The Griots will be more useful. You can use any pad 3"-6.5". The Griots spins so well, you won't have any issues. Really, it's where everyone should start.
 
If I ever have doubts of what to use, meguiars is always a safe bet.
Griot’s Garage & Meguiar’s Paint Perfection Kit a good starting set up on sale.(lifetime warranty on griot's da if you didn't know) definitely load up on extra microfiber towels and extra pads. 4 orange, 4 white, 2 red. get a couple of waffle weave towels for drying.The Guzzler Combo Kit
I like the clay sponges and clay lube. Optimum Opti-Eraser – Fine Grade if you drop them during detailing, simply rinse them off and continue. drop a clay bar, it's done and to the trash it goes.
after your polishing is done, any of the new coatings are a great way to go. durability of 1-3 yrs and very nice shine. sealants and waxes are still good options, but less durability.
I'm sure you'll end up being an addict like the rest of us, so just remember- you can never have too much detailing stuff. :D
don't forget to sign up for email notifications at http://www.autopia-carcare.com/ they're always having sales.
 
You got a lot of questions... many of which can be answered in a bunch of different ways. Which i see a bunch already. Personally I'd say start with the griots DA, get some good microfibers, pickup a polish and compound of choice, a couple pads, and just start polishing.

Jumping into full blown corrections can be overwhelming and you need experience and a lot of product knowledge to really get it right. I'm nowhere close to being a expert at paint corrections but I'm learning daily. It's a ton of info to try to absorb all at once. Which it seems like you're trying to do. What I'd say is start with the basics, see what works for you, get the fundamentals down, and build up your supplies and machines as you find needs for them. That way you're learning from experience. If you go out and buy $1000+ of stuff all at once, you'll be lost when that box shows up at the door trying to remember what everything is for and what everyone is telling you. Best way to learn is to put pads to the paint and find what works for you.
 
+1 on the Griots with a 5" and 3.5" backing plate--it can handle anything you throw at it and you can always step up to a Rupes or Flex later if you like machine polishing and take on more than your own cars.

Also, +1 on HD Cut, HD Polish and HD Adapt (for one steps)--very easy to use, long working time and easy to remove. Optimum Spray Compound and Polish are another easy to use set of products.

Get allot of pads--don't try to do an entire car with one or two pads per step. 4-6 for heavy defect removal--at least 4 for final polishing step--in general more is better.

Get lots of quality MF towels.
 
I must agree that not trying to go to full correction right away. That's how I was when I started and it was difficult to say the least. Work on polishing and as time goes on aim for full correction. For starting out I would recommend HD products as they are easy to use and work great. Also they aren't as much as their German friends (Menzerna). Some people have trouble using M105 or M205 especailly if you are new to correcting. Reading and doing are very different. Get out there and start polishing and you will learn what works and what doesn't. The nice thing is you will never stop learning, or you don't have too!
 
Thanks everyone, here's what I got.


Chemical Guys Polishing Pad Conditioner - 16 oz 1 $7.99
Griot's Garage Random Orbital Polisher 6" 3rd Generation - 25' cord 1 $154.99
Lake Country Dual Action (DA) Backing Plate - 5" 1 $14.39
Lake Country Hydro Tech Crimson Ultra Fine Finishing Pad - 5.5 inch 6 $42.00
Lake Country Orange Light Cutting Pad - 5.5 inch 6 $34.80
Lake Country Snappy Clean Boost Pad Cleaner 5 $5.32
Meguiar's DA Microfiber Correction Compound D300 - 16 oz 1 $15.19
Meguiar's DA Microfiber Cutting Disc Buffing Pad - 2 pack - 5.5" 1 $17.59
Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 - 8 oz 1 $7.99
Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 - 8 oz 1 $7.99
Menzerna Micro Polish SF 4500 - 32 oz 1 $27.99
NanoSkin AutoScrub Fine Wash Mitt 1 $39.99
Subtotal $376.23
Shipping $16.80
Tax $0.00
Total $393.03


I ordered the masking tape separately; and I have a ton of microfiber towels, blackfire detail spray, and chemical guys citrus wash, and other general washing supplies like CR spotless etc.

Am I missing anything?

First car to get polished will be a silver Hyundai Sonata purchased new from the dealer about 2 months ago, that has been my parents' commuter car and has undergone a few improper washings (e.g. not rinsing off dust before smearing dirt around with soap, etc)

a
 
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