newbie question....

J

justawop

New member
hey all, first post. Jsut a quick question on waxes. Is there really any difference between the ones found att he typical auto store, ie meguires, mothers etc. and in your humble opinion what is the best wax out there for a deep liquid shine on a light coloured vehicle(bright silver), factory paint in exellent condition. Thanks



Just to add, im using a pc 7424, lc pads, and am looking more for shine and wet look than durability since I enjoy the work and don;t mind doing it often....
 
i would worry more about the prep (clay, polishing, etc) stage, because of you don't do that properly, it really doesn't matter what wax/sealant (consider it icing on the cake) you put on...



p.s. :welcome !
 
For a bright silver, I prefer either Duragloss 105 & Aquawax, Einzett Glanz wax, Chemical Guys Jet Seal (I like to top with 50/50), or FK1 1000p.



I find a slight warmth, but very high gloss and clarity is best on silver. I haven't experienced any noticeable muting of flake with any of those and the clear coat is like glass!
 
justawop- Welcome to Autopia!



IMO the "boutique" Last Step Products ("LSP"s), i.e, "waxes") really can give nicer looks than many OTC products.



I always have a scad of silver vehicles and I generally use different LSPs on all of them; the differences might be subtle but it seems like there's always a perfect product for each vehicle.



Some products seem to work better/worse on certain silvers, but it's all just personal opinion and any differences can be *very* subtle.



But at least 90% of how silver looks is *prep*; waxes and sealants are more for preserving the look, the appearance comes primarily from the polishing.



Eliminating the minute flaws that "don't show on silver" (scare-quotes intentional ;) ) makes *ALL* the difference IME. And once the finish seems absolutely perfect, a little additional jeweling/burnishing can make a bigger difference that you'd ever believe. If the paint isn't literally blinding in sunlight *before* you apply the wax (and I mean blinding as in you can hardly see to *evaluate* it it's so dazzling), then you're not finished polishing IMO.
 
thanks guys,



Accumulater, what do you recomend in the way of prep, the typical 3 step or something different? Sorry but like I said Im a newbie....lol
 
justawop said:
Accumulater, what do you recomend in the way of prep, the typical 3 step or something different? Sorry but like I said Im a newbie....lol
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No apology necessary :D



The polishing can be a two or three ( or more or fewer) step process depending on what condition the paint is in.



The typical "three step" in a consumer-line is polish/paint cleaner, then glaze (often called "polish"), then a wax. I'd rather see people do two polishing steps and then the wax.



So, GENERALLY...I'd say a two-step polishig process followed by wax should suffice. First you do something kinda aggressive (or really aggressive if necessary) to remove the serious flaws. Then you do a follow-up with a milder productd to bring the gloss up to a nice level. You can then do additional "burnishing/jeweling" polishing after that if you want to go off the deep end ;)



As for which products to use, it depends on the paint (hard/soft) and the flaws (serious/minor).



Note that for correction via PC, I find small 4" pads absolutely essential; I can't make any headway with larger pads and I just waste my time trying.



Everybody has their own preferences as to products and product lines. I'm currently recommending the new Meguiar's products M105 (which I've used) and M205 (which I haven't) and/or their consumer-line equivalents.



In the past I usually recommended the 1Z line of products, which I use quite often.



FWIW, I am generally not a fan of Optimum's polish or of Menzerna, but that's just me. When recommending products to others, I steer clear of those as I honestly think there are more user-friendly options.
 
thanks accumulator, would you do the jeweling/burnishing by hand or could you use a blue/black LC pad with the PC and an ultra fine polish?
 
justawop said:
thanks accumulator, would you do the jeweling/burnishing by hand or could you use a blue/black LC pad with the PC and an ultra fine polish?
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The latter, by machine. I *might* do it by hand on old-school lacquer, but not on anything with a remotely modern paint.





Biggest thing I want to stress is to *NOT* switch from your most aggressive approach until all the marring is gone. People do a few passes, and then move on to mild stuff even though they can still see swirls/etc. Then they wonder why the paint never polishes up as well as they'd expected. Be sure to let your most aggressive stuff do all the heavy work and only use the milder products after the problems are solved.



And don't move on to the burnishing until you're so satisfied that you're pretty sure it'll be a waste of time (which it probably won't be).
 
thanks again accumulator, so I placed my order and it came in today, Im in caanda so I found what I could. Couldn;t find Megs 105 until after I had placed my order....lol. This is what I have, I have CG all-in-1 polish, CGcreme glaze with acrylic shine 2, and Glanz Wax, left over I have some mothers 3 step, some MEGs Deep crystal system, 1 black pad(LC), 1 blue, 2 white and an orange. Soooo now what....lol
 
justawop said:
thanks again accumulator, so I placed my order and it came in today, Im in caanda so I found what I could. Couldn;t find Megs 105 until after I had placed my order....lol. This is what I have, I have CG all-in-1 polish, CGcreme glaze with acrylic shine 2, and Glanz Wax, left over I have some mothers 3 step, some MEGs Deep crystal system, 1 black pad(LC), 1 blue, 2 white and an orange. Soooo now what....lol
Click to expand...



I'm not sure how to advise you at this point as I've never used the CG's stuff *or* the Glanz :nixweiss I'm *guessing* that the Glanz will bond OK to the CG creme glaze, so it'd be the CG AI1, the the glaze, then the Glanz.
 
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