Newbie here...gotta a question

L

little257622

New member
I live in an apartment complex that does not have any water spigots on the outside of the bldg. Luckily i live on the 1st floor of the complex so my question is I want to buy a 50 ft. garden hose & connect it to the kitchen faucet to do my car washes outside the house. Ive seen the adapters to connect a hose to the kitchen but i was a little baffled on how i would make this work. Once i connect the hose to the faucet turn the water on the hose will fill & if dont have the hose spraying wont the hose fill up & cause a blowout at the faucet ?
 
I would recommend learning how to rinseless wash. I recently converted to the GDWM ([ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTStk7vLKuM&feature=plcp]The Garry Dean Wash Method in action on paint GDWM Infinite Use Detail Juice Anywhere Wash Bucket Anywhere Detail Bucket Waterless Car Wash Auto Wash Rinseless Car Wash - YouTube[/ame]) and it makes it so easy and is extremely effective you'll wonder why you ever wanted to mess with a hose.

Note - if really dirty, go to a coin-op and spray it down first.

Sorry not to directly answer your question but, were I in your shoes, this is what I would do.
 
mjlinane said:
I would recommend learning how to rinseless wash. I recently converted to the GDWM
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Mike,
How do you like this method? I have been interested in it since watching Gary's video. It make perfect sense to me but I just can bring myself to dedicated a bucket and 20-50 towels for this purpose. I may just have to mix some up and give it a go.​
 
I would do rinseless washes too. I like to do them when I'm short on time. Depending on how dirty the car is I will spray down at the coin wash but most of the time it isn't needed. If you presoak like the video shows then you can really clean a decently dirty car safely. I think the method Garry uses is pretty good and it will help reduce any wash induced marring.
 
TroyScherer said:

Mike,
How do you like this method? I have been interested in it since watching Gary's video. It make perfect sense to me but I just can bring myself to dedicated a bucket and 20-50 towels for this purpose. I may just have to mix some up and give it a go.​
Click to expand...

I love it. Faster and (I think) safer than the normal method. I use a modified version as I don't generally do multiple cars. I use a 2.5 gal bucket and just the towels I need. Put the towels in the bucket, pour my pre-mix from the water jug until I cover them & then go.
 
How To: Wash Your Vehicle Using a Rinseless Wash.

Phase 1 of the Autopia-CarCare 5-step Paint Care Cycle: The Car Wash.

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The first step in creating and maintaining your car's paint is to wash and dry it with precise technique. All paint systems, but particularly modern clear coat paint systems, are scratch sensitive. This means anytime dirt or grit is rubbed against the paint, even softly, it creates microscopic scratches. With enough accumulation these scratches form visible swirl marks that act to diffuse the reflected light and the paint appears dull. Larger more visible scratches form swirl marks, which are visible micro scratches that ruin the appearance of the paint in bright light. Properly washing your car greatly reduces the chances of creating micro-scratches, keeps your paint free of acidic fall-out, and removes any dirt that blankets an otherwise perfect shine. Properly washing your car using high quality materials with good technique will not only help prevent or eliminate micro-scratches, but will not strip (or may even reinforce) your existing wax coating.

There are three main types of washing methods: Traditional Washing, Rinseless Washing, and Waterless Washing. Each type has advantages and draw backs. This article will focus on using the Rinseless Washing type to clean your vehicle.

-Rinseless Washing-As the name implies, Rinseless washing uses a technique that encapsulates and removes dirt and grime with out using a high-volume of rinse water. xRinseless washing has gained popularity in recent years. Rinseless washing is ideal in areas where water is restricted or times when speed and efficiency are critical. Popular Rinseless wash solutions include Detailer's Pro Rinseless Wash and Glossxand Optimum Polymer Technology'sxNo-Rinse and Shine. As a benefit, each of these wash solutions utilize synthetic polymer technology that not only cleans the paint but adds a layer of protection and shine to the finish, making them ideal for maintenance washing as well.x

Products Needed:

  • A large (5 gallon) wash bucket.
  • Wash media- A plush microfiber cloth, foam wash sponge, natural sponge, or wash mitt.
  • Rinseless wash solution- Detailer's Pro Series Rinseless Wash & Gloss or Optimum No-Rinse Wash and Shine.
  • Several Microfiber Drying towels.

Additional Products Recommended:

  • A second, large (5 gallon) rinse bucket.
  • Grit-Guards
  • Additional cleaning chemicals- A pre-rinse solution, wheel cleaner, and bug and tar remover.

Products Being Used:


Getting Started

First, start by dropping a Grit-Guard into the bottom of each Blackfire Wash Bucket.

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Fill each 5 gallons of water with approximately 4 gallons of water. Add the appropriate amount of rinseless wash solution to one bucket. Detailer's Pro Series Rinseless Wash & Gloss recommends a dilution of 1 oz per 2 gallons of water. I used a Pro Dispenser. If you don't have one you can use the bottle cap. Each cap-full is ¼ of an ounce. Add 8 cap-fulls to a four gallons of water.

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Place your wash media into the wash solution and allow to soak for 5 minutes prior to washing.

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Rinseless Wash Process:

(optional) Pre-treating your vehicle prior to getting started is an optional process. Detailers discovered that by misting the surface of the paint prior to washing, with a rinseless or waterless solution they break the tension holding the grime to the car and reduce the chance of micro-scratching the paint. Detailer's Pro Series Rinseless Wash & Gloss can be diluted and used in a spray bottle. Additionally, Detailer's Pro Series Waterless Auto Wash makes an excellent pre-treatment. Only a light mist is necessary. Allow to dwell.

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Treat any areas of stubborn bug remains or tar with Detailer's Pro Series Cleanse-All Exterior Cleaner and allow to dwell for three-to-five minutes.

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Wash and dry your vehicle a section at time. Begin with the cleaner surfaces such as the roof, hood, and upper side panels. Wash by moving your wash media, in this case a Cobra Gold Plush Microfiber Towel, across the paint gently making sure to use plenty of solution. Wring an ample amount of solution over the section to wash and move in gentle straight lines. Some of the dirt and grime will become trapped in the solution and run off the paint, some of it will attach safely to the microfiber.

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After washing the section, rinse your wash media out thoroughly in your secondary (rinse) bucket and wring until damp.

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Wipe using your damp microfiber cloth to remove most of the solution safely. This will leave behind a damp surface that requires light only light toweling with a drying towel to finish.

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An ultra soft Cobra Guzzle will remove any remaining dampness and leave the surface feeling slick and looking glossy.

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Repeat this process for the entire exterior of the car or vehicle until it is clean and glossy.


Pre-treating the soiled areas.

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Squeeze ample amount of Detailer's Pro Series Rinseless Wash & Gloss over the panel to washed.

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Wash gently in a straight lines, allow the solution to flow down the paint.


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Rinse your wash media out in the rinse bucket then load with more solution. Wring it out until damp.

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Wipe up any standing water, leaving the surface barely damp.

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Towel completely dry using a waffle weave drying towel.

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Repeat the washing and drying process for the door jambs (if desired).

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Wheels and Wheel Wells

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Spray a liberal amount of Detailer's Pro Series Tire Cleaner on to the wheel.

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Wash using Detailer's Pro Series Rinseless Wash & Gloss and a general duty microfiber towel.

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To clean the barrels of the wheels (the area behind the spokes) wrap your wash towel around a Wheel Woolie.

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Dry using a second, general duty microfiber towel.

Pre-treat the wheel wells with Detailer's Pro Series Cleanse-All. The wash using a general duty microfiber towel and Detailer's Pro Series Rinseless Wash & Gloss. Wrap the cloth around a Wheel Woolie to access difficult to reach areas. Wipe dry with a second general duty microfiber towel. Because Detailer's Pro Series Rinseless Wash & Gloss features a high tech polymer that infuses itself on plastic it will leave behind a dark, clean sheen.

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Clean the most soiled parts of the vehicle last, as by now, the wash solution is heavily soiled and should not be used on paint.

The last step in this case is the exhaust tips, which are soiled with carbon.

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A light mist of Detailer's Pro Cleanse-All Exterior Cleaner will break up carbon and make cleaning easy.

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Then follow by washing with Detailer's Pro Rinseless Wash & Gloss and general duty microfiber towel.
Dry with a second, dry general duty microfiber towel to reveal a clean exhaust tip.

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Final Thoughts:

Rinseless washing has become extremely popular to the ability to save time and reduce water usage. Quality products, like Optimum No-Rinse and Shine and Detailer's Pro Series Rinsless Wash & Gloss offer a safe way to quickly wash a moderately soiled vehicle. As a benefit, each product infuses the surface with synethic polymers that boost the shine of the paint and increase the protection.

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Rinse-less wash is one choice or if there is a coin-op place I would use that coupled with a rinse-less wash. I do this in the winter when I don't feel like breaking out the hose
 
mjlinane said:
I love it. Faster and (I think) safer than the normal method. I use a modified version as I don't generally do multiple cars. I use a 2.5 gal bucket and just the towels I need. Put the towels in the bucket, pour my pre-mix from the water jug until I cover them & then go.
Click to expand...

What really makes it faster than a "traditional" (more like Todd shows) rinseless method.

I end up using 4 mf mitts plus separate technique on wheels when I do rinseless. I do not dry after every panel. I wait after doing like 1/4 car then come behind and dry.
 
Bunky said:
What really makes it faster than a "traditional" (more like Todd shows) rinseless method.

I end up using 4 mf mitts plus separate technique on wheels when I do rinseless. I do not dry after every panel. I wait after doing like 1/4 car then come behind and dry.
Click to expand...

I used a Bone and the scrubbing the sponge clean after touching paint, wringing out, etc. is reduced for me. Also contributed to my prioritizing of rinsing clean in my reviews of rinseless products.
 
I would think not rinsing out a microfiber towel or mitt while doing the wash would save time. Just set it aside and pick up a new one from the bucket.
 
Personally, I think the new rinseless washes are a great compromise / substitute for a conventional "foamy wash" and clean water rinse. I'm the biggest skeptic when it comes to revolutionary new products especially when it says "rinseless".

I began to use rinseless washes a few years ago and was amazed how well this product worked, especially on a cold December day in New England...:bigups
 
BobbyG said:
Personally, I think the new rinseless washes are a great compromise / substitute for a conventional "foamy wash" and clean water rinse. I'm the biggest skeptic when it comes to revolutionary new products especially when it says "rinseless".

I began to use rinseless washes a few years ago and was amazed how well this product worked, especially on a cold December day in New England...:bigups
Click to expand...

Bobby I am always amazed at how many people only use Rineless or Waterless only during the winter and not year round. For me in the winter is when I need the most lubrication. It proves to me that if rinseless or waterless is safe for the winter then it is safe at all times.
 
TroyScherer said:
Bobby I am always amazed at how many people only use Rineless or Waterless only during the winter and not year round. For me in the winter is when I need the most lubrication. It proves to me that if rinseless or waterless is safe for the winter then it is safe at all times.
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I use traditional soaps more in the spring and early summer due to the pollen but tend to do rinseless more in summer when it rains less since car does gets less dirty.

Rinseless is a time saver somewhat due to prep and cleanup (getting hose out, rinsing out mitts/brushes, drying with Master Blaster, more time on wheels). The wheels, barrels, and welled are just not cleaned as well when I do rinseless.
 
I mostly use Waterless, a lot easier for me and car comes out great.

Difficult on my 1st time but it became easier as my confidence went up.

Tried it out on a filthy black Titan and worked great, truck was in for compound/polish so it was more to see how it handles dirty cars.
 
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