newb questions....

futuresweets-10

New member
I have been reading on here for a while and I am even more confused then when I started, lol. A few years ago when I worked at a local shop we had waxs and polishes, but no sealers or anything else. I know wax protects the cars finish and polish shines it up, but what does sealer do? Also, besides wax, polish, and sealer am I missing anything?
 
yeah ur missing a lot of things.....the more u get into it...the more confusing it gets, but its always fun


a sealant takes 24hrs to cure and protects the finish longer than any wax
 
Let me answer your question with a post I made on another board.
Disclaimer: This is just my opinion. I don't want any die hard carnauba guys to get offended by this. I still love my wax and I'll probably always have it. I do think that sealants are the way of the future even though I don't see them ceasing production of waxes anytime soon.



Are you still using a carnauba to wax your car? Why? If you ask any detailer about why they use one wax or another they will tell you all about how ‘wet’ it makes the paint look or how ‘deep’ the reflections are. The fact is that waxes achieve that by using greasy oils. Anything covered in oil is going to look like wet paint. It’s the nature of the product. And deep reflections are more a product of proper polishing and prep work and not as much a result of which brand of wax you are using.


Let’s look at what wax really offers you. Wax offers you between 4 to 6 weeks of protection from UV rays that cause paint fading. If you live in a hot climate then you can expect 4 weeks or less. Wax is wax and heat will cause it to melt and evaporate. What kind of protection is that?



That ‘wet look’ appearance is due to oils in the wax. Those oils also attract dust. We all know how nice it is to have a perfect looking car and then 5 minutes later have it covered in dust. Those oils don’t stay around forever, so your car is only a wet paint looking dust magnet for as long as the oils don’t evaporate. Give it a couple days and your car will look shiny, but not as wet anymore.



Prices for wax are also out of this world. One of the best waxes I have ever used is only $15 bucks at any Harley Davidson shop. It is called S100 and it is amazing. It competes with waxes that cost 5 times as much. You may not believe me, but some waxes out there break the bank at over $1000 a jar. Want proof? Check this puppy out. What a deal, eh? On sale for a mere $1500 bucks. A few years ago I had an Autopia member send me a chunk of this wax. He has a Ferrari dealership in his back yard, so I’m sure it wasn’t a hardship to purchase this wax. He wasn’t impressed with it and he sent it to me to compare it to other waxes that I used at the time. Compared to my $15 S100 I wouldn’t pay more than $30 bucks for Zymol Vintage. It was really under impressive and not worth anywhere near $1500 bucks. I keep it around for some customers who want to say that they have this wax on the car for shows, but other than that I wouldn’t suggest it. I don’t even use it on my own cars, so that tells you something. Pinnacle Souveran also claims to have a high amount of Brazilian White Carnauba in it, but you don’t see them slapping on a house payment sized price tag on their wax. Souveran is, by the way, a great wax… but also not worth $70 bucks when compared to S100 and other lower priced products.



I’m not a wax hater by any means. I have loads of wax myself. I have at least a dozen different waxes on my shelf that get used on customer cars. When someone comes to me for a detail and request certain products by name to be used, I want to be prepared. However, for my own cars I have found a much much better product than wax. I’m talking about sealants.



Sealants are not new technology. They become more popular in the last 20 years, but they have been around much longer than that. It has only been in the last half dozen years that polymer technology has really started to wow the detailing community. There are some names that auto enthusiasts are familiar with like Klasse, Zaino, Meguiar’s and others, but recently some remarkable advances in polymer sealants have brought us products like Blackfire, 4* Ultimate Paint Protection, and Wolfgang. Recently this technology was put back on the shelf in the form of Meguiar’s NXT and Eagle One Nanowax. Sealants offer outstanding durability at over 6 weeks for most products. 10 to 12 weeks is average for most sealants while some will last for much longer. These products bond to the paint like super glue and don’t evaporate with a little heat. They aren’t greasy oily products that attract dust either. Some of them actually have anti-static properties to them that repel dust instead of attracting it.



It is worth it to explore sealant technology and see how it compares to your favorite waxes. Most sealants are priced competitively and aren’t that much more expensive than a good carnauba. For example, a 16 ounce bottle of Wolfgang Paint Sealant costs under $20 at Premium Auto Care. Tack your 10% discount on top of that and it is really close to the $15 price tag on S100. Not to mention that you won’t be out in your garage waxing every weekend just to keep it looking good. Wolfgang is a very durable sealant that looks as good or better than any wax I’ve ever used. For anyone that says their carnauba is the only product to produce ‘deep’ or ‘wet’ looking finishes, take a look at these pictures and reevaluate your stand on car care products. Sealants have a lot to offer and I truly believe they are the way of the future. Why use a greasy carnauba that is fragile and creates so much work when you can use a sealant that looks this good and protects for much longer without the dust attraction?



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That's pretty much it. Sealants don't bond to waxes due to the oils in wax, so if you are going to use them both then waxes have to be on top. The way sealants look now days there really isn't any reason to top them with anything. Some look better with a wax on top, but most look great all by themselves. Look at sealants and waxes as either/or type products.
 
Sealants can replace wax or go below it. I'm not sure what polish means to you, but you are missing either abrasive polish or chemical polish and also glaze.
 
Sherman8r44 said:
Sealants can replace wax or go below it. I'm not sure what polish means to you, but you are missing either abrasive polish or chemical polish and also glaze.


To me compounds are the abrasives that take imperfections out of the paint and the polish is what goes on after the compounds to shine up the paint. I think I might be calling you "abrisive polish" "compound" and your "glaze" "polish"
 
I like this thread. I have some of the same questions.

Not being a professional I've just used OTC stuff. I've been very happy with using Mothers pre-wax cleaner and Carnuba wax. My son complains I take my car out for a drive and spend a week cleaning it. That's not far from the truth.

A few years back I purchased products from Zaino (the bottles say Zaino Bros). I tried them on my motorcycle and really liked the results. I did not realize it was a sealant as opposed to a wax.

I am also a bit confused as to what goops to use when and even terminology. I've checked out several of the advertiser sites and they don't seem to offer much in the way of "this is step one, step two, etc..."

Example: Wolfgangcarcare.com. The offer the following products:
Finishing Glaze
Deep Gloss Paint Sealant
Pre-wax Polish Enhancer


So what order would you use these products? And why sell a pre-wax polish enhancer but no wax? Is it actually something you use before using a sealant? And if the sealant is the final step what is finishing glaze?

This is starting to sound like a bad Sienfeld episode.
 
LOL it's all very confusing. But if you were to use those three, you would do Pre-Wax Polish Enhancer (pre-wax cleaner a.k.a. chemical polish), then Finishing Glaze (just glaze), and finally the sealant. You have to research the products and be able to translate them into generalized products. This is the whole reason I started out with the Mothers 3-step system, it takes the confusion out of it. If only the boutique brands started using an equivalent...

And futuresweets-10, yes I believe that is correct. Also, don't forget the chemical polish a.k.a. pre-wax cleaner.
 
Many people and companies use the word 'wax' simply because sealants haven't really made it into the mainstream of detailing yet. Even NXT Tech Wax is a sealant with no actual wax. It's kind of like how everybody calls tissue "Kleenex" or bandages "Band-Aids". It is just for lack of a better term more than anything else.
 
vcallaway said:
I like this thread. I have some of the same questions.

Not being a professional I've just used OTC stuff. I've been very happy with using Mothers pre-wax cleaner and Carnuba wax. My son complains I take my car out for a drive and spend a week cleaning it. That's not far from the truth.

A few years back I purchased products from Zaino (the bottles say Zaino Bros). I tried them on my motorcycle and really liked the results. I did not realize it was a sealant as opposed to a wax.

I am also a bit confused as to what goops to use when and even terminology. I've checked out several of the advertiser sites and they don't seem to offer much in the way of "this is step one, step two, etc..."

Example: Wolfgangcarcare.com. The offer the following products:
Finishing Glaze
Deep Gloss Paint Sealant
Pre-wax Polish Enhancer


So what order would you use these products? And why sell a pre-wax polish enhancer but no wax? Is it actually something you use before using a sealant? And if the sealant is the final step what is finishing glaze?

This is starting to sound like a bad Sienfeld episode.

Are there any bad Seinfeld episodes? :gun_banda Actually, the pilot was pretty bad.

In wolfgang, products I have use only a little of, I would guess this is your order: 1) Pre-wax Polish Enhancer; 2) Finishing Glaze; 3) Deep Gloss Paint Sealant.

The rule is that you use the most abrasive polish first, then a lighter polish, then an optional glaze (if you use a compound, it isn't really optional unless you use an oily follow up polish, which many light abrasive polishes are), then a sealant or wax or both (in that order, sealant, wait a day, then wax).

I often use: 1) Farecla G6; 2) Farecla G10 3) Pinnacle Souveran
or: 1) PB's SSR2.5; 2) PB's SSR1 and/or 3) PB's Pro Polish/PwC/PwS 4) PB's EX-P/EX; 5) PB's Natty's Blue.
That's a couple of examples. I have a two step process: 1) Pinnacle Swirl Remover; 2) Pinnacle Souveran.
For nasty cars where we are breaking out the wool pads, I'll often do this (commercial products) 1) Cut polish with wool; 2) Farecla G10 with foam cut pad; 3) Glaze with a light polish pad; 4) Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax.

Is that helpful?
 
Very helpful, at least to me.

One thing I noticed about Meguiars recently is they are starting to list the abrassiveness on the front of the bottles. I needed a good polish and my paint supply company handles the Meguiars product line. The bottles have a little scale on the front with with a scale of 0 to 10 for light cut to heavy cut. Made it much easier to figure out what I needed to buy. In my case it was the Diamond Cut Compound which maxed the scale.

I agree that Mequirs 3-step was a very brilliant idea. Other companies should consider making things simple for Novices like myself.

Mothers has started labeling theres a bit better now. Their latest packaging offers a three step Cleaner, Sealer, Wax system. I've been using the mothers line for the last few years and really like it. I've not used the sealer yet.
 
I just bought a new left over 2005 mustang. I am guessing that all I would need to do prior to applying sealant would be to wash it with a good quality product and apply the sealant after it was thoroughly dry?
 
I would always suggest starting with clay even on a new car. If the surface isn't 100% smooth then it needs clay. new cars are no exception.
 
mustang666 said:
I just bought a new left over 2005 mustang. I am guessing that all I would need to do prior to applying sealant would be to wash it with a good quality product and apply the sealant after it was thoroughly dry?

In addition to the clay, I would almost wager that it needs a light polish to remove the dealer installed swirling that seems to come standard on all new cars. :)
 
JaredPointer said:
In addition to the clay, I would almost wager that it needs a light polish to remove the dealer installed swirling that seems to come standard on all new cars. :)


Sad to say that I took a close look at the paint last nite and I can see faint swirl marks. I also found a ton of info on line relating to detailing steps so now I have some direction as to where to start . Thanks guys
 
So the EX-P wouldn't be a good idea to use instead of Natty's because it also contains dust atracting oils? What about EX sealent? Its a waste of energy to use these sealents and a wax?
 
in response to the claying the car even if new as a first step i disagree. steps to take


1. spray car down really good with plain water.
2. spray rims with something like wheel and mag cleaner.
3. spray all trim such as front grill side skirts morrors and places that collect bugs, with awesome dilluted 3 parts water 1 part awesome.
4. spray off again
5. wash using dawn dish soap "this removes all prior waxes/polishes" then use clay then wash again.
6. clean all brake dust out of rims. "dress tires as well"
7. finish getting bugs ect... off using something like prep solvent.
8. use something like poorboys SSR series to remove all imperfections use a buffer when applying this removes scratches and all.
9. put your wax on yay! lol use some high end product like zaino use about 4 coats of this product. this will give you a deep shine.
10 clean windows/mirrors ect...
11. if you have crome use glass and crome polish and shine that up real nice.
12. your pretty much finished.

newcommer-:rockon
 
in response to the claying the car even if new as a first step i disagree. steps to take


1. spray car down really good with plain water.
2. spray rims with something like wheel and mag cleaner.
3. spray all trim such as front grill side skirts morrors and places that collect bugs, with awesome dilluted 3 parts water 1 part awesome.
4. spray off again
5. wash using dawn dish soap "this removes all prior waxes/polishes" then use clay then wash again.
6. clean all brake dust out of rims. "dress tires as well"
7. finish getting bugs ect... off using something like prep solvent.
8. use something like poorboys SSR series to remove all imperfections use a buffer when applying this removes scratches and all.
9. put your wax on yay! lol use some high end product like zaino use about 4 coats of this product. this will give you a deep shine.
10 clean windows/mirrors ect...
11. if you have crome use glass and crome polish and shine that up real nice.
12. your pretty much finished.

newcommer-:rockon

So you don't agree with clay usage, yet you advise to use Dawn because "it removes all prior waxes/polishes." What about the polish you'll be using later? It will remove prior wax as well, so why bother using Dawn? Why not just use a quality car wash solution. And just FYI, you won't be removing prior polish unless you left the residue on from the last time you polished. :hmmm:

I disgaree with your advice - it looks like you copied and pasted some bad advice from a tuner forum or something.
 
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