Newb: Getting ready to order products. Need a little help.

Z

zachwhite0

New member
Hey guys I just want to make sure that I am not going to be putting anything abrasive over something else and taking off something I justy applied etc.. Im very new to this and just wanting to make sure that I basically understand what these products will be doing for my car (Bright Silver Metallic 2000 TA).



This is what I plan on doing in order...



1.)Wash (Megs gold class)

2.)Clay (Removes tar/contaminants from paint)

3.)Wash (Megs gold class)

4.)P21s paint cleanser ( Further cleans the paint surface and removes old wax/remaining contaminants as well as polishes)

5.)Klasse AIO (Polishes and adds a sealant)

6.)UPP (Is another sealant?)

So basically at this point my car is protected by AIO and UPP right? I could stop now if I wanted? A wax like S100 would be an optional top coating for the AIO and UPP I already applied? Is UPP basically a synthetic wax?



Thanks to anyone that will help me. I am still a little confused as to what to use and in what order so I hope I have this right.
 
alrighty... initial wash is fine. Claying doesnt do anything for tar. You need a bug/tar remover for that. It will remove embedded contaminents like you said though. Instead of washing twice, wash, rinse thoroughly, spray some QD, clay, and then rinse and dry. Saves you a second washing and drying step (and therefore time). Use either AIO or P21S. Both will accomplish the same thing. I'd go for AIO seeing as it leaves behind a light acrylic which P21S won't do. UPP is not a wax, it a synthetic sealant. Polymers in UPP will crosslink with each other and form a durable shell over the paint. Yes, you could stop after applying UPP. This would allow you to add more layers of UPP whenever you want. You could also apply a wax like S100. This would prevent you from adding additional layers of UPP onto the paint later on down the road though.



Paragraphing is for losers :D
 
Ok I think I understand. So say once I apply UPP a few times and do not want to do it every week can I use like a QD spray after I wash? What would you recommend?



I am basically looking for a system I can use where I apply a sealant about once every 2-3 months and I generally wash my car about 2 times per week(No Garage :grrr ) so I would need some type of Quick product for everytime I wash my car because my car never loosk right with just a wash and dry.
 
zachwhite0- Not to :argue with Neothin, but clay usually works fine on tar for me. If it's really tenacious you might need the solvent-based approach though.



I too would just keep adding more UPP rather than top it with wax (I use it on my silver S8 and I never top it). It's pretty user-friendly, so I usually just apply more UPP instead of using a QD, but some QDs that work well include Quick Shine, FK 425 (I've only tried it once but it was *VERY* impressive!), and of course the UGE that's made to compliment UPP.



The P21S GEPC leaves fillers behind, and using AIO afterwards will remove said fillers. FWIW I'm just not that impressed by the GEPC, mine sits on the shelf. IMO AIO cleans better anyhow.



I noticed there's no abrasive polish in your proposed regimen. I'd plan on using *something* along those lines as a 6 year old car is gonna have marring. I've found that silver needs periodic correction just as much as other colors (after all, clear is clear ;) ) if you want it to really look impressive. The way silver hides flaws is handy, but for a full detail I'd give it a little polishing. Not sure what to recommend as most of the stuff I like was discontinued due to VOC regulations....the 3M PI-III MG (05937) is still around if you look hard enough, and I'd sure hate to be without a bottle of that. Makes a great prep for the AIO, that's for sure. Works fine by hand if you're doing things that way.
 
You can QD after every wash if you want to, whether you have 1 layer of UPP or more. Any wax content in the QD that might interfere with subsequent wax applications would be removed by the solvents in the sealant upon application.



You can wash twice a week, QD after each wash, and re-apply UPP every couple months. That's fine. Most QDs have some type of protectants in them anyway, so you'll be extending the life of the UPP every time you wash/QD.



UPP is very slick, so you'll probably be tempted to reapply it more than every two months, to restore the just-applied super slickness. :)



Paragraphs are important Neo... ;)
 
As far as abrasive polishes I have Wizards Finish cut 1 step compound and 1Z Metallic Polish Wax. (I think it is abrasive) Would you recommend either of these?
 
I'm not familiar with the Wizard's, am familiar with the 1Z MP.



I'm assuming that the MP is the "consumer" version in the rectangular can (as opposed to the older "Pro" version in the round 1liter can). That's a *VERY* mild polish and it leaves fillers and wax behind, which the AIO will remove.



I didn't get great compatibility between 1Z MP and UPP, but that was an earlier version of UPP (they're on about the fourth version now). The UPP just sorta sat on top of the MP rather than truly bonding to it. But this might not happen with your and the versions you're using. I'd try doing over an area with the MP. Then apply the UPP over the MP and let it set up for an hour or so. See if it buffs off properly (as opposed to just smearing around). *IF* it goes OK then skip the AIO. If it *doesn't* go OK, then use the AIO to clean off the MP.



But that MP is just *so* mild that I'd still look for a bottle of the PI-III MG. Seriously, that's one product that's just great to have around. I've never done a 2000 GM, but I'd bet that the MP is just too mild to correct any marring. The MG is awfully mild too, but it's corrected most paints tht I've tried it on well enough (well enough for silver at any rate).
 
You'll only need about an ounce for a typical car. It spreads very easily, so you'll be able to do a whole panel with a very small amount. I'd recommend for any beginner to use a wax/sealant on a dark car or tinted windows, to get the feel for how little product is really needed. Light colors or clear windows tend to hide how much product is actually on the surface, because it's so hard to see.
 
White95Max said:
You'll only need about an ounce for a typical car. It spreads very easily, so you'll be able to do a whole panel with a very small amount...[it's hard to tell] how much product is actually on the surface, because it's so hard to see.
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I use even less than one ounce (far less ;) and that Audi's sorta big). You can go by feel when it's hard to see on the paint. IMO if you can clearly see it on the paint then you used way too much. Working methodically (and really thinking about it) helps avoid any missed areas.



I've been using the current bottle of UPP for well over a year and a half. It'll probably last another few years easily. IMO most people use far more LSP of *any* type than they need to. There's no real need to be a fanatic about thin applications the way I am (and UPP is pretty forgiving of thick applications), but if you want to you can make any container of (decent) LSP last for many years.
 
I've tried using clay to get off fresh tar before, and all it did was smear and ruin the clay bar. How would I go about using clay to get tar off (not trying to bash, I'm genuinely interested because it could save me $ on not buying B&T removers)?



As maxy and accumulator said, UPP is one of those products that doesn't need alot of product to cover an entire car. a couple of drops can adequately cover a good portion of a panel.
 
Great. Thanks for all of the info guys. Im going to order tomorrow. Any place online that would be cheaper than autogeek.net? I will post some pics when I get my car out of storage and give these new products a try.
 
Neothin said:
I've tried using clay to get off fresh tar before, and all it did was smear and ruin the clay bar. How would I go about using clay to get tar off ...
Click to expand...



Sometimes it *does* smear, and yeah, it ruins the clay quickly (I go through a lot of clay). The right combination of lube and technique (and often plenty of kneading of the clay) seems to work for me. But it's not always easy and it might not be the right approach for everyone. I just like the way I don't have to redo my LSP the way I would with a B&T remover. Once I get a lot of layers of sealant, for instance, I don't want to start over from scratch.



On the cars with carnauba, it's not such a big deal, and I don't always turn to clay for tar messes on those. Didn't mean to make it sound like clay is always the answer for tar.
 
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