New vehicle rubber & plastic trim care?

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Batt4Christ

New member
What is my best course of action to protect and preserve the rubber and plastic trim on my 2013 RAM?



My previous vehicle, an '09 Nissan Titan had trim that turned ugly fairly quickly- especially the large black plastic piece between the hood and windshield.



I'm a believer in prevention to help prevent future need for restoring.



I'm convinced that ArmorAll, STP, et-al are creations of the Devil!



I have used Megs protectant with fair results, but it didn't seem to last very long...
 
Vinyl is a plastic made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) with a chemical polymer plasticizer mixed in and it’s also an ultra violet (UV) sensitive material, which degrades when exposed to sunlight. Maintaining the integrity of the topcoat and protecting against UV damage are the keys to keeping vinyl looking and performing "like new".

ValuGuard Exterior Trim Repair Kit (ETR) - solves the stubborn problem of "gray bloom" sun fading and wax/polish residue on black trim components.





The seals around the vehicles lights (headlights, brake and indicator lights, etc) and the soft seals around doors, windows, sunroof’s, hood and trunk are constantly being flexed and compressed all the while being subjected to a hostile environment. For maintenance use a product that contains glycerine to maintain the look and feel of the material



Periodically clean using Iz einszett 'Plastik-Reiniger' an intensive, non-corrosive, non-acidic two-phase deep cleaner for that removes grime build-up thoroughly and effortlessly, these chemicals restore the original texture, tactile feel and resiliency



Protection – using 1z einszett Vinyl Rubber Care & Potectant "Tiefenpfleger” for use on clean or pre-cleaned vinyl or rubber, it provides a temperature-resistant seal and a low-shine matte finish Dust-resistant and retards the fading effects of UV rays to keep exterior ‘rubber’ and vinyl looking like new.



Ultra violet (UV) protection is a sacrificial / renewable component; this is due to the UV protection layer being degraded by exposure to the elements (sun, sand, road or sea salt, and etc) so it is imperative that you renew it and needs to be re-applied on a regular basis (dependent upon location climatic condition)



Alternative products- 1z einszett Gummi-Pflege for use on clean or pre-cleaned rubber, protection and durability measured in months, it has a little sponge on top of the bottle so you always get the right amount of product on your weather-stripping or rubber seals. Once applied to rubber they will take on a dark but natural shine. Use bi-annually to provide protection to avoid rubber from hardening or freezing.
 
To expand a bit on Jon's fine technical post.

1. No "dressing" is going to make an inferior produced part become a "new" part. That cowl was a part sourced from a parts manufacturer and failed to withstand UV exposure.

2. ArmorAll, STP, etc, are no different in reality than 99% of other brands of polysiloxane resin based dressings, they just advertise more to the mass market.

3. The basic difference in one water borne dressing and another is the percentage of the active resin in the product, more resin content, the longer it will last. And the more expensive the high resin content product will normally be. People become very brand loyal and will share that belief with others, and such, without any real documented, factual, information regarding a product.

It just become's their passion and they happily preach their belief in a brand of product.

4.The term "dressing" is used for these products as they are just like a "dress", they are short term cover up products that produce for a short period of time a visual experience that makes the user see what they wish to see.

Hope this aids in your understanding of the subject matter.

 
Batt4Christ- Welcome to Autopia!



I'd consider just waxing the whole truck, trim and all, with Collinite 845, or another "trim-friendly" LSP (Last Step Product, i.e., wax/sealant). Or treat the trim with a "trim sealant" (I like Ultima's Ultimate Tire and Trim Guard Plus...think that's the name of the stuff). With something like these products providing the basic protection, you don't need to do much else, though I like to do the following:



After each wash, I like to spritz-and-wipe my exterior trim using AutoInt/ValuGard's Fast Finish. It's a leaves-stuff-behind Quick Detailer and I either spritz it on the surface directly or spray it onto my drying towel. It buffs off easily with no issues. I can't get over how *perfect* this product is for this application! No running in the rain, doesn't completely wash off when you wash,leaves just the right "sheen" on such surfaces. I find myself using it on *all* exterior trim, on all my vehicles, at every wash.



With an underlying LSP and regular treatment with the Fast Finish, the trim oughta stay like-new.
 
Batt4Christ said:
I've ordered a can of FK1000P... Got notice it shipped this morning... I don't suppose that is trim-friendly...?
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Good choice :xyxthumbs



I've used it on trim with good results, but so many others have had staining issues (and some sounded kinda severe) that I put my experiences in the "don't try this at home, kids!" category.



I'd get some of the Ultima Trim Guard stuff and then maintain with the Fast Finish. Every vehicle I've used that combo on has looked great and stayed that way. If the Ultima stuff is too pricey, just get some of the Fast Finish..that's all I use on the exterior trim of my '00 Tahoe (bought in simply *terrible* condition..if it'll work on that vehicle it'll sure work on your *new* truck!) and even now, towards the end of winter, the trim on that thing looks great. I just spray a bit on a cloth and wipe the trim while I'm drying it, easy as could be. And it keeps looking good between washes... on my beater-truck that can really be saying something ;)
 
Ok, this is an "odd" bit of information I came across when my wife was looking for any toxicity in Vaseline petroleum jelly (she made some weird concoction with coconut oil for her dry skin...anyway) Here's something from Wikipedia regarding petroleum jelly...



" It was also recommended by Porsche in maintenance training documentation for lubrication (after cleaning) of "Weatherstrips on Doors, Hood, Tailgate, Sun Roof". The publication states "…before applying a new coat of lubricant…" "Only acid-free lubricants may be used, for example: glycerine, Vaseline, tire mounting paste, etc. These lubricants should be rubbed in, and excessive lubricant wiped off with a soft cloth."



And wheels...

"It was recommended in the Porsche owner’s manual as a preservative for light alloy (alleny) anodized Fuchs wheels to protect them against corrosion from road salts and brake dust. “Every three months (after regular cleaning) the wheels should be coated with petroleum jelly.”



Interesting, I thought. Mind you- I haven't used it.
 
??? What year of Porsche manual?

Acid free could be many products by the way.

Your wife's concoction contains the base of any quality car wash shampoo or hair shampoo product, coconut oil, only they use the correct chemical name for such.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Your wife's concoction contains the base of any quality car wash shampoo or hair shampoo product, coconut oil, only they use the correct chemical name for such.
Click to expand...



Hmmm.... she is somewhat 'weird' in her approach to life...lol.
 
Exterior plastic I tend to use the same thing that I use on the paint (KAIO / 845) and never have to dress it seperately. Rubber, kind of depends on where it is. Usually 303, Gummi, Griot's rubber and vinyl, etc.
 
rdorman said:
Rubber, kind of depends on where it is..
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Yeah, I agree. I'd add Wurth's Rubber Care to the list of stuff for this.



Ya know...on some rubber I just LSP it, or (again) use the Fast Finish. The exterior rubber on the Jag has been waxed since the '80s and it's still just like new.
 
Use nothing but gTechniq C4 or Opti-Coat 2.0. These are both acrylic sealers that will prevent the plastic from turning gray and looking old and worn out. Both of these products will last two years or more. They are not oily and will not wash off...ever!



Google both of these products and read their reviews. Or, do a search on this website. You will be stunned at the positive comments thousands of users from all over the world have posted.



Both are a little expensive, but a bottle of either will do up to two cars. The $60 you spend on either will be much, much cheaper than all of the oily, temporary coatings so far mentioned in this Thread. These just accumulate dust and dirt and wash off when you clean your car. Save your money....do not use them!!!!



If you decide not to use gTehcniq C4 or Opti-Coat 2.0, just use Lemon Pledge. You will get the exact same results as the other products mentioned in this Thread. Pledge will not damage the plastic, will not run off when washed, and will not present a problem on the paint if you get some on it. It doesn't last very long and will collect dust exactly like Back to Black, Aerospace 303 and all the others mentioned so far.
 
ValuGard's UV Gard in the ETR Kit has been around for over 13 years and lasts for 5 or more years, according to independant lab tests done by both Hyundia and Mazda. (has been used on many, many thousands of new vehicles by the vehicle manufacturers to correct warranty issues)

The one "problem" is that none of the products you mentioned or the UV-Gard, will adhere for any real length of time is the part was produced using an internal r,elease agent. The release agent utilized in manufacturering of these parts will continue to leech out for two to 5 years and like trying to stick a band-aid on a dirty finger, the coatings can not gain long term adherience to the part.

All will do better than a "dressing" for sure, however, they just can't over come the chemistry of the release agents used.
 
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