New User - question about wax

P

phil627

New member
Hello Everyone,

This is my first post and would appreciate your thoughts.

In the past I was very involved with polishing/waxing/detailing. Unfortunately for the past several years I haven't had a car worth washing, much less waxing.

Recently bought my first new car. Nothing fancy, but would like to take of it the best I can and keep it looking new.

In the past I have used Meguiars 26 wax and have always been very satisfied. Until about a week ago, I had never heard of Collinite, but I'm getting the impression it is pretty amazing stuff. Sounds almost too good to be true. Can anyone compare it to Meguiars 26 ? What wax would you recommend for a new car ?

Been a while since I've seriously thought about this stuff, but since my car is new, theoretically if I keep adequate wax protection on it, would I ever need to use a polish ?

Thanks, would appreciate your thoughts !
 
Welcome to AutopiaForums!

I have not used Collinite personally but it is a forum favorite with a reputation for great durability.
 
Quite honestly, it's mostly all in the prep.
Then whatever wax you like.
Dunno megs 26, but if you like it, use it. Colli is good too. Literally there is dozens of good/great waxes available from here. Get a few of em and enjoy. See what ya like.
Experiment, play, ENJOY !!!

And congrats on new ride, may you enjoy it safely for years and miles to come.
 
Thank you both for your quick replies. I appreciate your thoughts !

Been a while since I've seriously worked with polish / wax and I'm just trying to get caught up with the current products.

Thanks again for your help !
 
Ronkh said:
Quite honestly, it's mostly all in the prep.
Click to expand...

Agree. Clean and clear paint (minimal swirls) is what gives the best shine. The ideal scenario is to clay (if it feels rough) and use a paint cleaner to prep the paint then apply your favorite wax or sealant.
 
Thanks Bunky,

But if my finish is brand new, I'm assuming I don't need any cleaner/clay/polish. The finish feels like a mirror. If I keep adequate wax protection on it, would I ever have a need for cleaner or polish ?

Sometimes I get a little confused with the terminology. My understanding has always been that cleaner is the most aggressive in smoothing the paint. then polish is a little more gentle and this is what creates the mirror smoothness that is ready to wax. Wax is the layer of protection that sits on top of the finish. Thus, my thinking that if I always have adequate wax protection on top, the finish would not be vulnerable to contaminants that would bond to the finish.

Do I have any idea what I'm talking about ?

Thanks again for your help !
 
phil627 said:
Thanks Bunky,

But if my finish is brand new, I'm assuming I don't need any cleaner/clay/polish. The finish feels like a mirror. If I keep adequate wax protection on it, would I ever have a need for cleaner or polish ?

Sometimes I get a little confused with the terminology. My understanding has always been that cleaner is the most aggressive in smoothing the paint. then polish is a little more gentle and this is what creates the mirror smoothness that is ready to wax. Wax is the layer of protection that sits on top of the finish. Thus, my thinking that if I always have adequate wax protection on top, the finish would not be vulnerable to contaminants that would bond to the finish.

Do I have any idea what I'm talking about ?

Thanks again for your help !
Click to expand...

Don't think that. Check my new car prep and look at clay pic

clay and polish it
 
phil627 said:
If I keep adequate wax protection on it, would I ever have a need for cleaner or polish ?
!
Click to expand...


That sounds nice, but in all reality, you will get scratches, the paint will get dulled no matter how many times you wax it. And if it doesn't get dulled then the bottom line is, you're not driving it. My best advice is to pick up some permanent protection, Opti-Coat. It dries thicker than wax, has a glassy shine and will last around 4-5 years.
 
This can help you understand the options.

Paint cleaners such as Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer or Mothers Pre-Wax cleaner are really a chemical cleaner to remove crud/oxidation that may have bonded to the surface during transport that clay does not remove. They may have very very fine abrasive but does not really remove paint.

If you never have done this type of paint prep, then you will not likely appreciate it

flowchart.jpg
 
To answer your first post...

Meguiar's 26 is an AMAZING wax, particularly for the price. It creates a very unique "liquid gold" look on dark colored cars. Durability is average, I have never really seen more then 2 months out of it. But it looks as good as waxes costing 3-4 times as much, maybe more.

Collinite has different waxes.

845- Liquid Insulator Wax is a fan favorite for good reason. It is easy to apply and lasts a very long time (4 months plus) with excellent water beading ability. It creates a bright look that, to my eyes, is better on light colored vehicles. It is a little silvery on darker colored cars.

915- Their paste wax is super durable (6 months) and also has that intense Collinite water beading. This is one of the best looking waxes, at any price point, on black paint. It can streak if over applied and is a little finicky in application.

476- This is the paste version of 845. Pretty much the same performance with a little more durability, but a little more finicky to apply.


phil627 said:
Thanks Bunky,

But if my finish is brand new, I'm assuming I don't need any cleaner/clay/polish. The finish feels like a mirror. If I keep adequate wax protection on it, would I ever have a need for cleaner or polish ?
Click to expand...

Keep in mind that most new cars sit outside the factory for days, weeks, or months before being transported to a car lot where a teenager is all-too-eager to scrub the paint clean with a brush. Sadly, most new paints are in terrible condition.

To test the paint to see if you need to clay it, rub your hand (in a sandwich baggy) over the paint, paying attention to the rear bumper and trunk. Clean paint should feel smooth with no grit or pebble-like texture. Make sure you wash your car first! If you feel any grit, then it needs to be clayed.

As far as polishing, inspect your paint from different angles in the direct sun. Use the sun's reflection as your target and look for any fine scratches or swirl marks that radiate outwards from the light source (target).

The single best thing you can do is wash your using proper technique (two bucket method, soft microfiber towels, etc) to avoid inflicting scratches in the clear coat. Most swirl marks are the result of improper washing techniques were dirt, grit, or hard towels are allowed to microscopically scratch the paint. One bad wash can ruin days of polishing.

Sometimes I get a little confused with the terminology. My understanding has always been that cleaner is the most aggressive in smoothing the paint. then polish is a little more gentle and this is what creates the mirror smoothness that is ready to wax. Wax is the layer of protection that sits on top of the finish.
Click to expand...

There is no standardization of terms, but your one the right track.

A heavy-cut polish, also called a compound or in some cases a cleaner, is designed to quickly level paint and remove deep scratches.

A medium-cut polish, also called a polish or a swirl mark remover, is used to remove medium scratches and scuff marks.

A light-cut polish, also known as a finishing polish, a jeweling polish, or in some rare cases -a glaze (be careful as the term glaze is used by a lot of different companies for different types of products) is designed to smooth away the faintest defects and leave the paint mirror smooth with a high level of reflectivity.

A wax (natural) or a sealant (synthetic) is used to add a little to the look and protect the surface by providing a sacrificial barrier.


Thus, my thinking that if I always have adequate wax protection on top, the finish would not be vulnerable to contaminants that would bond to the finish.

Do I have any idea what I'm talking about ?

Thanks again for your help !
Click to expand...

No wax, sealant, or paint coating will 100% prevent contamination, but it will greatly prevent it. Certain contaminates like iron oxidize will penetrate most protectants quickly, because they grow as they oxidize (rust). Frequently washing your paint will help.
Click to expand...
 
Claying and at least a chemical polish is a MUST even on a new car

These pics are from claying a BRAND NEW bmw.










 
please don't comment on the clay being on the stone.

I dropped it so it was a waste, and went into garbage after pic
 
Like Todd said above...

To Clean:
Wash and do a "Baggy Test" for contaminants
If found, I like using CarPro TRIX or Iron X first.
Follow that with Nanoskin Prep Sponge – Fine
This will remove contaminants within the paint.

To Polish:
To accomplish this requires a quality machine.
There have been many technology advances.
Including Pads, Polishes and machine updates.
A quality DA and microfiber pads do a great job.

To Finish:
Again there have been many recent improvements.
This includes Waxes, Sealants and paint "Coatings".
This depends on ease of use, looks and longevity.

Most waxes last 2-4 weeks. Collinite 845 lasts a few of months

Sealants like BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond look awesome! 2-4 months
This is a easy-on/easy-off sealant and has a wonderful look.

Coatings like CarPro CQuartz Last over a year.
 
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