New Subaru Paint Correction problems

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cjbigcog

New member
My '11WRX (lightning red) arrived with rids all over and what looks to be paint etching. Small water drop size marks on the paint. The windshield is also etched. The dealer is going to replace the glass and offered to buff out the paint defects. Told them I'd do it myself.



I had heard that Subaru paint is fairly soft, so figured taking care of the paint would be easy. Not the case as it turns out.



Here's what I had to work with:

Flex 3401

Griot's RO



1Z Intensive paste

M105

Op Hyper Compound

OP Hyper Polish



Pads:

5" LC Orange

6" 1/2 LC White

6" Griot's Orange

6" 1/2 Hexalogic Yellow

5" 1/2 Surbuff



So...started with least agressive first and worked up from there.

At most agressive, I figured the hexalogic/1Z would do the job. Nope!

Surbuff/105, hard to beat this combo for correction...but not much luck here for quick correction.

Long story short, what worked best was 1Z Intensive/5" LC Orange/Griot's RO followed by M105/LC Orange/Griot's. Finish with OP Hyper Polish/LC White/Flex. Still to come, Po85rd/black/Flex.



So my question is why was this "soft" paint so hard to correct? Hard to tell how deep the etching is. I thought I could 2 step this thing.



It has been a few months since I've done any polishing, so I'm a bit rusty. Any comments appreciated.
 
cjbigcog- It's kinda funny how sometimes the 1Z Intensiv can cut better than the M105 and other times it doesn't :think:



If I were you, I'd consider doing the final polishing via Griot's rather than Flex, I get a slightly better finish that way. I only use my Flex when I need near-rotary correction with products it plays nice with (e.g., M105)
 
Thanks for the responses!



tdekany...sorry, no pics. Wasn't sure I could capture the etching in a photo.



JohnKleven...Went after the "spots" on the windshield with different glass polishes, vinegar and Chemical Guys water spot remover. No luck with any of these.



Accumulator...Is your suggestion that I use the Griot's for burnishing, and not cleaning up the 105?
 
Wow. The dealer is going to replace the glass? This sounds pretty bad. Doesn't appear to be acid rain then, but definately environmental though. I would strongly suggest initially going the route of using a dedicated Decon wash like Auto Int ABC wash. I'd then determine if sanding is in order or heavy leveling correction process. Still can't believe the dealer is replacing the glass. Is it on the side or back glass at all? I bet Ron Ketcham could lend some light on this.
 
I didn't think it was from acid rain....don't think we have that here in NorCal. It's a mystery to me what caused this to happen. My theory is that something got on the car while sitting at the dealership. Some spotting on side glass, but not that visable.

I'm not planning to sand the car (that's way over my head). I'll just plug away and polish it out. When I get done, I'll apply Opti-Coat and call it DONE!
 
We work on a lot a lot a lot of Subaru here in Buffalo, and they have always been quite easy to correct, at least for me. The only issue I see people running into has been finishing work - or being stubborn and insisting on rotary on them.



For example, M205 on a finishing pad in short "demo" style time cleared up OBP to like 99%. Even a paint cleaner on a polishing pad corrects..



I can't see Subaru paint getting harder, only softer(thats been the trend I have seen anyway) but I really wouldn't think you have enough material to sand anyway - they typically don't measure super thick for me, ever.



In for updates - For the windows, have you tried a waterspot remover with any mechanical action? Not for nothin, you could combine some m105, and waterspot remover as a slurry and work it. Though the waterspot removers acidic compound will reduce the polish quickly, so work relatively quickly and combine as you go. Just a thought. Also try rain clear glass scrub from wally world or even DG NuGlass with a firm pad.
 
The side glass issues I can live with....usually not visable. I thought about trying a polishing pad, but that was just more work to do. As it's a new car, it's easier to have the dealer replace the glass.
 
Fair enough, I tend to polish glass when needed, I feel like its easier considering all the potential mess-ups a dealership would potentially have, at least in this area. Let us know how it goes.
 
cjbigcog said:
Accumulator...Is your suggestion that I use the Griot's for burnishing, and not cleaning up the 105?
Click to expand...



I myself would probably switch to the Griot's as soon as I could; if you don't really need the Flex's forced rotation I'd probably do it all with the Griot's. I sure wouldn't expect to need the Flex after the M105ing, unless that left things so micromarred up that the Flex helped clean that up much quicker.
 
Build date, how long in dealer inventory?

Most probable culprit, the dealer's sprinkler system over a couple of warm weeks, very common due to the use of "grey water" for watering of grass and shrubs.

Grumpy
 
Reclaimed water used in sprinklers down here is a nightmare. Combine that in Florida's summers of high heat and humidity. I avoid it the best I can. :soscared:
 
Here in California, the only thing that comes out of our sprinklers is organic,cruelty free, grass fed water.:wave:
 
cjbigcog said:
Here in California, the only thing that comes out of our sprinklers is organic,cruelty free, grass fed water.:wave:
Click to expand...

Would check with the dealer regarding the water used in the sprinkler system.

Over the years, dealt with this concern at numerous dealers in California, for various manufacturers, including Subaru.

Grumpy
 
Hope you were able to get a good discount on the car with that type of damage. Holy cow! I am not sure that I would have accepted the car from the dealer in the first place. Good luck!

Jeff
 
My car came from another dealer. When it arrived, I told my dealer not to wash it. I gave it a quick look and saw the usual dealer installed marring which I expected. It wasn't until it got the first wash that I saw the other problem.



Accumulator: I'm curious why you prefer the Griot's to the Flex? The Flex is so smooth and powerful; it just feels like it is more efficient.
 
cjbigcog said:
Accumulator: I'm curious why you prefer the Griot's to the Flex? The Flex is so smooth and powerful; it just feels like it is more efficient.
Click to expand...



It's not so much that I prefer the Griot's over the Flex; I do *REALLY* like the Flex 3401 and I use it for serious correction (unless I simply must use smaller pads). I don't mind the Flex's "recoil" the way some people do, not at all.



But I do find the Griot's a *bit* easier to use for hours on end, and I genuinely believe it produces a slighty (OK, very slightly ;) ) better finish, at least on my paints, with the pads/products I use.



To really split hairs, I think the Cyclo usually finishes out a tiny bit better than the Griots.



But if you prefer the Flex, and it produces results you're happy with, then I'd sure ignore my opinion and stick with what works for you :D
 
Accumulator....

Thanks for your perspective. If nothing else, just the weight difference between the two favors the Griot's.
 
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