New car winter prep - what to do?

C

camhabib

New member
Just took delivery of a brand new metallic grey daily driver car. Instead of using it as a plow for the fresh snow (and salt) we just got here in Boston, thought I'd do a little detailing work to get it ready for the winter. I'm hoping someone can chime in and let me know if this sounds like a good plan, and if there's anything I should add.

1 - Wash
2 - Clay bar
3 - Polish w/ 3M Ultra-fine polish
4 - Treat with Klasse x 2 w/ 12H between coats
5 - Buff and remove residue w/ quick detail spray

I'm not so much concerned with a deep shine or luster during the winter months as I am with being able to rinse the salt and other surface contaminants off easily, and protecting the paint as much as possible. Is there something I should use in place of Klasse, or in addition to? Much appreciated.
 
Congratulations on the new car. In addition to what you have listed you might consider a decontamination with IronX or similar product. It's amazing how much metal is embedded in the paint of new car, especially if it came to the dealer by way of rail.

With respect to the Klasse twins, you may not get any better protection but there are a lot of new products that are easier in many users opinions to apply. You might look at a coating like BlackFire, Optimum Gloss Coat or Pinnacle Black Label. Of those 3, I've personally only used BlackFire's coating (came out well and was easy) but have recently purchased Black Label's coating. I'm looking forward to trying it. It's supposed to be almost stupid simple to use. Nothing but positive reviews on Optimum's product. I'd recommend you spend some time reading the reviews on these and other coatings. I'd almost bet you'd be tempted to try one.

I'd be remiss if I didn't tell you how much I like BlackFire's Crystal Seal also. It doesn't offer the same type of durability as a coating but it is so easy to use you wouldn't mind applying it every few months.
 
Thanks for the tips! I just spent a bit of time reading up on the three you recommended and don't know if I can really tell any difference between them. The Black Label and Gloss-coat seem the easiest to me in terms of application, with the Black Label indicating it may last a bit longer. Given the increase in cost, what's gained over the Klasse with either of these products? Is it simply ease of use or is there a better gloss / durability to them as well?
 
Coatings are more durable than a sealant and offer longer longevity that a sealant. Gloss Coat has a new formula with increased longevity. It is very easy to use. Black Label V2 is also very easy to use. Can't go wrong with either one. Seems like some folks are having issues with Blackfire.

I would opt to coat a new car. It does require a little more prep work prior to applying a coating.

If you are pressed for time then use the klasse twins and coat it in the spring. I'm basing this assuming you already have klasse.
 
The Guz said:
Coatings are more durable than a sealant and offer longer longevity that a sealant. Gloss Coat has a new formula with increased longevity. It is very easy to use. Black Label V2 is also very easy to use. Can't go wrong with either one. Seems like some folks are having issues with Blackfire.

I would opt to coat a new car. It does require a little more prep work prior to applying a coating.

If you are pressed for time then use the klasse twins and coat it in the spring. I'm basing this assuming you already have klasse.
Click to expand...
Thanks again for the help. If I left the Klasse on until spring (3-4 months) and coated then, would there be any problem with that? I only ask because, as assumed, I already have the Klasse with the first coat applied. Assuming my paint is in relatively good condition come that time, what would be a good polish and pad to use to get rid of any minor defects and prep the surface for either the Gloss Coat or Black Label?
 
Any fine polish-m205, HD polish, etc- will rub that off. Realistically, even something like sonax paint cleaner and adding some Apc to your wash solution would do the trick.
 
KSG can be a bit tougher to remove than one might expect, at least if it's a healthy application of KSG. Just sayin'...(I've removed KSG quite a few times).

camhabib- I'd just use the Klasse twins and go for more than two coats of the KSG (I used 4-6 back when I used it). But if you don't already have the Klasse I'd get FK1000P instead as it protects at least as well, and cleans up even easier, with only one or two coats (I switched from KSG to FK1000P and love it).

Q: Do you need to use the 3M Ultra Fine (do you mean Ultrafina?)? Why? Are you certain it'll do the job? I wouldn't be using that, at least not by itself.

Q: What are your plans for a Springtime/post-winter cleanup?

Oh, and I'd do a true (chemical) decontamination instead of merely claying.

And I'd be all about keeping the undercarriage clean through the winter so you don't get salt-related corrosion started.
 
Accumulator said:
camhabib- I'd just use the Klasse twins and go for more than two coats of the KSG (I used 4-6 back when I used it). But if you don't already have the Klasse I'd get FK1000P instead as it protects at least as well, and cleans up even easier, with only one or two coats (I switched from KSG to FK1000P and love it).

Q: Do you need to use the 3M Ultra Fine (do you mean Ultrafina?)? Why? Are you certain it'll do the job? I wouldn't be using that, at least not by itself.

Q: What are your plans for a Springtime/post-winter cleanup?

Oh, and I'd do a true (chemical) decontamination instead of merely claying.

And I'd be all about keeping the undercarriage clean through the winter so you don't get salt-related corrosion started.
Click to expand...

Sorry to interfere with this thread but this question might be helpful to others and maybe the OP as well.

Is claying really necessary if the paint feels *generally* smooth? If one does a chemical decontamination with something like Iron-X and the paint feels smooth for the most part, can one proceed to polishing?

The reason I'm hesitant to clay is the chance to create scratches. Thanks, Accumulator. Hope this helps others as well.
 
Accumulator said:
KSG can be a bit tougher to remove than one might expect, at least if it's a healthy application of KSG. Just sayin'...(I've removed KSG quite a few times).

camhabib- I'd just use the Klasse twins and go for more than two coats of the KSG (I used 4-6 back when I used it). But if you don't already have the Klasse I'd get FK1000P instead as it protects at least as well, and cleans up even easier, with only one or two coats (I switched from KSG to FK1000P and love it).

Q: Do you need to use the 3M Ultra Fine (do you mean Ultrafina?)? Why? Are you certain it'll do the job? I wouldn't be using that, at least not by itself.

Q: What are your plans for a Springtime/post-winter cleanup?

Oh, and I'd do a true (chemical) decontamination instead of merely claying.

And I'd be all about keeping the undercarriage clean through the winter so you don't get salt-related corrosion started.
Click to expand...
I have three coats on the car already - had a bottle of it from a bit ago. I can add another but I think I might just order the Gloss Coat and apply that in a month instead.

The 3M product I was talking about is this one - 3M? Perfect-It? EX Ultrafine Machine Polish, 8 ounce, 06097

I have all three steps in the series but generally have only used the last two as they do a great job for me of getting rid of the fine swirl marks from regular cleanings and driving. I've read a lot about the M205 product and might give that a try instead.

Haven't come up with a good spring time plan yet, but probably a good polish and Glass Coat if that works out well for me. I have never heard of doing a decontamination before, but I use the Sonax wheel cleaner, which works very well and seems very similar to the IronX product - I'll pick up a bottle soon.
 
Nav45 said:
Sorry to interfere with this thread but this question might be helpful to others and maybe the OP as well...
Click to expand...

I agree that these Qs go right along with the topic of this thread. Noting that my responses are merely IMO/IME....

Is claying really necessary if the paint feels *generally* smooth?
Click to expand...

Short answer: Not IMO.

Longer answer: Opinions will vary, but I'd usually say no. If it's a white/silver vehicle and you have reason to believe that it's contaminated with something ferrous, and you're not gonna do a chemical decon then you'd better at least clay it or use one of the Prep towels. BUT...otherwise I just don't consider claying to be as indispensable as many people here do. Using a Paint Cleaner can also make claying less mandatory IMO. With all my silver vehicles I'd know if regular claying were utterly essential, but that's just my situation.
If one does a chemical decontamination with something like Iron-X and the paint feels smooth for the most part, can one proceed to polishing?
Click to expand...

Short answer: yes, if polishing is even needed.

Longer answer: Noting that I use a different brand of different chemical Decontamination products...IMO if you use the chemicals you'll *VERY* rarely also have to clay. I've sometimes clayed while the chemicals are dwelling, but those were special cases with somewhat severe contamination issues.

Used properly, on a not-too-awfully contaminated vehicle, good Decontamination chemicals can do the job just fine all by themselves with no claying IME. And (also IME) they do a much better job than clay.

The reason I'm hesitant to clay is the chance to create scratches...
Click to expand...

Even though I'm always saying how I spot-clay without marring the paint..that's just me and my situation. I do agree that most people will cause some marring when they clay, at least if they're not:
1) EXTREMELY careful about it (knead/replace clay after every few inches of contact, virtually zero applied pressure, lots of time..)
2) using very mild clay (which isn't very good at decontamination anyhow), with lots of lube, on not-stupid=soft paint
3) experienced enough to know what they can get away with and what they need to avoid doing

Easy for me to spend other people's money, but a good Decontamination System is:
1) the OEM-tested/approved, way to decontaminate (at least if you use the right stuff; I use ValuGard)
2) the most effective way to get contamination out of the paint's pores and micro-fissures (yeah, even on new paint), note that clay only works "above-surface"
3) basically as easy as doing a series of washes, minimal skill required compared to claying

Of course, plenty of members, including Pros, here do things differently with stellar results, so it's not like I have the one-and-only answer to this one.
 
camhabib said:
Just took delivery of a brand new metallic grey daily driver car. Instead of using it as a plow for the fresh snow (and salt) we just got here in Boston, thought I'd do a little detailing work to get it ready for the winter. I'm hoping someone can chime in and let me know if this sounds like a good plan, and if there's anything I should add.

1 - Wash
2 - Clay bar
3 - Polish w/ 3M Ultra-fine polish
4 - Treat with Klasse x 2 w/ 12H between coats
5 - Buff and remove residue w/ quick detail spray

I'm not so much concerned with a deep shine or luster during the winter months as I am with being able to rinse the salt and other surface contaminants off easily, and protecting the paint as much as possible. Is there something I should use in place of Klasse, or in addition to? Much appreciated.
Click to expand...

If it was mine, I would concentrate on getting protection on it more than anything else. My choice would be a wash and a couple layers of FK1000P. Make sure and do the wheels also!
 
camhabib- I've never used that 3M product. I'd get HD Polish instead of (my now retired) M205 if you want to try something different.

Eh, if it were mine I'd just add some more KSG if/when needed and leave it at that.
 
Accumulator said:
I agree that these Qs go right along with the topic of this thread. Noting that my responses are merely IMO/IME....



Short answer: Not IMO.

Longer answer: Opinions will vary, but I'd usually say no. If it's a white/silver vehicle and you have reason to believe that it's contaminated with something ferrous, and you're not gonna do a chemical decon then you'd better at least clay it or use one of the Prep towels. BUT...otherwise I just don't consider claying to be as indispensable as many people here do. Using a Paint Cleaner can also make claying less mandatory IMO. With all my silver vehicles I'd know if regular claying were utterly essential, but that's just my situation.


Short answer: yes, if polishing is even needed.

Longer answer: Noting that I use a different brand of different chemical Decontamination products...IMO if you use the chemicals you'll *VERY* rarely also have to clay. I've sometimes clayed while the chemicals are dwelling, but those were special cases with somewhat severe contamination issues.

Used properly, on a not-too-awfully contaminated vehicle, good Decontamination chemicals can do the job just fine all by themselves with no claying IME. And (also IME) they do a much better job than clay.



Even though I'm always saying how I spot-clay without marring the paint..that's just me and my situation. I do agree that most people will cause some marring when they clay, at least if they're not:
1) EXTREMELY careful about it (knead/replace clay after every few inches of contact, virtually zero applied pressure, lots of time..)
2) using very mild clay (which isn't very good at decontamination anyhow), with lots of lube, on not-stupid=soft paint
3) experienced enough to know what they can get away with and what they need to avoid doing

Easy for me to spend other people's money, but a good Decontamination System is:
1) the OEM-tested/approved, way to decontaminate (at least if you use the right stuff; I use ValuGard)
2) the most effective way to get contamination out of the paint's pores and micro-fissures (yeah, even on new paint), note that clay only works "above-surface"
3) basically as easy as doing a series of washes, minimal skill required compared to claying

Of course, plenty of members, including Pros, here do things differently with stellar results, so it's not like I have the one-and-only answer to this one.
Click to expand...

You mentioned the valugard decon kit, do you feel the same way about the finish kare kit? I mean in terms of offering a better result than clay?
 
jrock645 said:
You mentioned the valugard decon kit, do you feel the same way about the finish kare kit? I mean in terms of offering a better result than clay?
Click to expand...

Yeah, with regard to doing a better job than (just) clay...*BUT* and it's potentially one *HUGE* BUT, the FK stuff is *nasty* and I hardly ever say that about anything. It's also really, REALLY harsh and can do damage. The ValuGard ABC is basically foolproof,the FK stuff isn't. Hey, I've used the FK stuff and was completely satisfied with great results, and the cars in question were *CONTAMINATED* something awful. But that's me, and as I've said before there's a big diff between Accumulator-proof and foolproof.

The alkaline part of the FK stuff smells awful (plan to throw away the stuff you use) and isn't the sort of stuff you just pour down the drain without thinking about where it'll end up (and I'm no tree-hugger). Think "kerosine", for one thing...

The acidic part of the FK stuff can potentially damage all sorts of surfaces so don't overdo the dwell-time and keep it off any aluminum bits that might have a compromised finish (let alone bare aluminum). I forget which acid it is, but it's one of the nasty ones so be careful with it.

Now that I've tried to sorta scare you off of the FK kit, if you go that route perhaps you'll at least treat it with the appropriate respect :D Not like I'm throwing mine away, so don't take this all as being totally negative. Hey, it's easy to order in reasonable size bottles compared to the ValuGard, and it works.
 
I have the FK kit, long rubber gloves, eye protection is a must. Its nasty like mentioned and I wouldnt use it again unless I was more experienced wiht it. The couple times I used it was on beaters I was bringing back to life. I wouldnt bring it any where near a vehicle I valued, it might be fine to do so, but it is a more professional product I would say.

That said it had no ill effects on a 2006 jeep, nor a 2003 f250, and it did work well.
 
Accumulator said:
The alkaline part of the FK stuff smells awful (plan to throw away the stuff you use) and isn't the sort of stuff you just pour down the drain without thinking about where it'll end up (and I'm no tree-hugger). Think "kerosine", for one thing...

The acidic part of the FK stuff can potentially damage all sorts of surfaces so don't overdo the dwell-time and keep it off any aluminum bits that might have a compromised finish (let alone bare aluminum). I forget which acid it is, but it's one of the nasty ones so be careful with it.
Click to expand...

I have the FK kit...thanks for confirming my gut feeling, the "kerosine" stuff does a great job, though I've only used it on the vertical panels (which are the ones that really need it) not to mention I'm afraid it will soften/stain the driveway sealer. The acidic part i would need a serious reason to try...like visual rust stains.
 
hercar- I agree about keeping the FK1119 (IIRC that's the pn, at least in gallons) off the driveway sealer.

If you *do* get some rust-blooms, the acidic stuff *will* do a more thorough job than clay, but I also agree about not using it unless it's truly needed.
 
Nav45 said:
Is claying really necessary if the paint feels *generally* smooth? If one does a chemical decontamination with something like Iron-X and the paint feels smooth for the most part, can one proceed to polishing?
Click to expand...

Just be sure and use the plastic glove or bag test and not just your bare hand. I've too often seen surfaces that looked and felt smooth with a bare hand only to fail the glove/bag test miserably. When done properly with the right lube, I've personally never had a clay bar cause a problem. Having 'said' that, I can see how in some/many cases, some form of chemical decon will do the job just fine.
 
If I bought a new car I would...

  1. Start with the interior: vacuum, wipe down with Megs Quik Interior Detailer, apply a fabric protector to carpets and seats (optional), install weather tech mats (a must IMHO)
  2. Take the wheels off and do them first; pressure rinse, APC/degrease with firm brushes, rinse, iron-x decontaminate, two bucket wash with brushes and clay mitt, rinse, dry, apply a coating or Collinite 845 to the rim.
  3. Do the wheel wells with: APC/degreaser and firm brushes, rinse, dry, apply a coating, 476s, or dressing.
  4. Pop the hood and: APC/Degrease the engine bay using an EZ detail brush, quick pressure rinse, pat dry, air dry, dress with Sonus Motor Coat.
  5. Do an aggressive wash: Pressure rinse, foam cannon/lance with wash mitts, flood rinse, iron-x, pressure rinse, foam gun (or clay lube) with medium clay alternative, quick rinse and dry.
  6. Do a full two step correction: Check for specific areas that need wet sanding (1500grit -> 2000grit -> 3000grit), compound with Megs M101 or Menz FG400 using my long through DA and some compounding pads, wipe down with a waterless wash and some waffle weave towels, follow up with some CarPro Reflect polish, HD Polish, Menz SF4000 using my long through DA and some polishing pads, paint cleaner wipe down twice per panel buffing dry, final inspection.
  7. Protect with a coating if the environmental's allow (forecast, temperature, humidity, etc.) and layer twice or protect with FK1000P adding a layer every weekly wash for 2-3 weeks.
  8. Clean the glass with Stoners Invisible Glass and some MF glass polishing towels and apply dressing to the tires
  9. Full wipe down with favorite quick detailer at the photo shoot location (gotta take pictures of your brand new car after all that work)


Note: I recommend spot checking for iron/tar and if you see it turning purple treat the lower half of the car (door handles and down) if it still turns purple everywhere then I'd iron-x the whole car.

I'd spread the steps above over 3 days minium. Steps 1-4 on day one, steps 5-7 on day 2, and steps 7-9 on day three (to do two layers you need to do step 7 twice).
 
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