I will be taking delivery of a new 2012 Honda Civic Sedan in Silver. I'm looking to immediately give it a good wax to get a layer of protection on the paint. Preferrably I'd like something durable to avoid spending every weekend applying wax. In doing some searches I've seen many people recommend Collinite 845. Is this still recommended as the most durable wax? Should I put anything underneath it such as Klasse Sealer? Any recommendations are appreciated since I dont have much experience in this area. Thanks.
New Car: Need Recommendations on Durable Wax
- Thread starter rdonchez
- Start date
Good rule of thumb is to prep your car to be nearly out of swirls, even a brand new car from dealership has them... Otherwise wax alone won't be the solution...
But if you're looking for a good durability, any of the collinite waxes will do or meguiars M16 if you can get them in the US. For ease of use Optimum Car Wax or Optimum Opti-Seal is a good spray on and walk away product, probably 15-20 min for a mid-size car, just spray and wipe with applicator/MF, no need to buff.
But if you're looking for a good durability, any of the collinite waxes will do or meguiars M16 if you can get them in the US. For ease of use Optimum Car Wax or Optimum Opti-Seal is a good spray on and walk away product, probably 15-20 min for a mid-size car, just spray and wipe with applicator/MF, no need to buff.
rdonchez said:
Dan
Well-known member
I think you will be hard pressed to beat the durability of 845, however I'd avoid using products containing petroleum distillates on a new car for at least 30-60 days. I know it works fine for most people however some folks have gotten some weird issues and to me it is not worth the risk.
My understanding is that by the time you get your new car the paint is fully cured. I've put a sealant on my last 3 new cars the day I brought them home with no ill affects. DG105 really looks good on my Granite Green Passat--it's a light green mettalic with a grey undertone so very similar to silver.
You can get a clear plastic film put on the front to protect against stone chips--had one on my black A6 and you could hardly tell it was there. BTW -- I'm not a pro--just someone who likes to keep my cars in nice shape with minimal effort.
You can get a clear plastic film put on the front to protect against stone chips--had one on my black A6 and you could hardly tell it was there. BTW -- I'm not a pro--just someone who likes to keep my cars in nice shape with minimal effort.
Dan
Well-known member
pwaug said:
Most people have no issues at all, but some have gotten soft paint on cars that regularly have hard paint. IMO, its not worth the risk. Plenty of water based products you can use for the first month or two. If you have to go retail, AquaWax or Wax-As-U-Dry are good.
rdonchez said:
I used Zaino products for years and the only time I ever had streaking is when I applied it too thick--a squirt of detail spray and a wipe and they were gone. All sealants should be applied in thin coats--makes it much easier to wipe off and avoids the streaking. Have had no problems with 105 and Aquawax.
[quote name='rdonchez'] Is the Duragloss 105 safe to put on a new car? QUOTE]
Click on this link for a good explanation of why not to wait to protect your new car---
the myth of when to wax a new car and how it hurts the detailing*business - Auto Detailing Business Editorial by Kevin Farrell - Car Detailing Business Resources
Click on this link for a good explanation of why not to wait to protect your new car---
the myth of when to wax a new car and how it hurts the detailing*business - Auto Detailing Business Editorial by Kevin Farrell - Car Detailing Business Resources
DatacomGuy
New member
I also have a new car, and am trying to research how to best attack it. Tagging along.
My thoughts were to treat it the same as the other cars. M105+M205+CGEZCG+BFWD or similar. I guess, in theory, if there is no swirling and marring, perhaps just a real light cut with a finishing pad? Dunno. Still learning. Could be completely off base here.
My thoughts were to treat it the same as the other cars. M105+M205+CGEZCG+BFWD or similar. I guess, in theory, if there is no swirling and marring, perhaps just a real light cut with a finishing pad? Dunno. Still learning. Could be completely off base here.
I don't have a DA so don't have the luxury of polishing my new cars. I make sure the dealer does no exterior prep work other than removing the plastic protective coatings --no washing, no waxing--nothing. Drive it home, wash, clay, apply DG 105, next morning apply AquaWax. I usually add a coat of Aquawax every 3 or 4 weeks since it is so simple to apply. Just before winter I'll add another coat of 105 and continue with the Aquawax whenever possible in the winter. I wash with ONR most of the time and then a conventional wash every 4th or 5th time. In the Spring I'll clay it again and start all over with the 105/Aquawax. My car is garaged and doesn't get the miles it did when I was working so once a year clay and twice a year 105 is enough for me. You might have to do it more often if your car is exposed to the elements more.DatacomGuy said:
DatacomGuy
New member
pwaug said:
I dont have a DA yet either. I plan on getting one in the next month or so. Thus far, I haven't done anything with the new car but weekly two-bucket washes with Meguiars gold.
Maybe i'll look in to the 105/AW setup for the new one, until I get a DA. Then I can polish and seal. My other vehicle, on the other hand, needs some work bad.
Ron Ketcham
Active member
Yakky, the paint system on a new vehicle, painted in an assembly plant is "cured" as much as it will ever be by the time one gets the vehicle.
Second, look on the door plate and in most cases the production date shows the vehicle to be no less than a few weeks to 6 months since it left the assembly plant.
Third, OEM paint systems are not the same chemistry as "body shop refinish" material.
OEM is "heat cured", vs refinish which actually cures by exposure to "air".
Just a heads up on this issue.
Grumpy
Second, look on the door plate and in most cases the production date shows the vehicle to be no less than a few weeks to 6 months since it left the assembly plant.
Third, OEM paint systems are not the same chemistry as "body shop refinish" material.
OEM is "heat cured", vs refinish which actually cures by exposure to "air".
Just a heads up on this issue.
Grumpy
DatacomGuy
New member
After more reading, DG bonding agent+105+aquawax might be the way to go. All rave reviews.
rdonchez said:
I apply it in back and forth, up and down motions to assure even coverage--do the whole car--have lunch then go back and remove the haze with a microfiber cloth. A dime size glob on the application pad is usually enough to do about a 2' X 2' area. It's usually dry where I started by the time I've done the remainder of the car, but I give it that extra time to dry just to make sure.
Accumulator
Well-known member
rdonchez said:
I'd use a microfiber cloth instead as many seemingly soft cotton towels will mar automotive paint.
DatacomGuy
New member
Accumulator said:
Beat me to it..