Ok. I have been reading these forums for a while now, the more I read the more I get confused. I'll start by saying i Have a black 2009 F150 Flareside. Meaning that there is a lot of plastic trimming, a plastic bed cover, and plastic exterior strap hooks. I try to keep my truck clean but have never polished before. I plan on investing in a buffer but dont know which to purchase. Also what products are suggested for an exterior detail including tires and wheels? I want to remove swirls and have a few rock chips. The interior as no carpet so its not too bad to clean except for the dog hair on the seats. What is good for the dash and floors? Sorry for all of the questions but I dont want to invest in things that arent needed or wrong for my vehicle. Thanks in advance for any advice y'all can throw my way!
Never Detailed Before
- Thread starter awc428
- Start date
Well for starters. Pick up some touch-up paint for the rock chips.
Clean the area with rubbing alcohol and let dry, then apply as little as possible paint as possible to fill in the rock chips.
If you are careful enough, you should be able to level out the pits by dabbing the end of the included mini paint brush in the "valley" of each chip.
make sure to shake the bottle really well and try to clean the end of the brush from globs of paint on the top of the bottle to prevent dripping anywhere you don't want it, and/or using too much paint.
Using this method,, you should be able to get away without using sandpaper, usually a polish compound afterward levels the "hills" of paint afterward out nicely.
For plastic, I like to use AutoGlym Vinyl & Rubber care for short term restoration and protection.
For long-term care I like Black Wow.
Look into a dual orbital polisher (7424 or equivalent, they will mostly all be fairly equal in performance) and a cutting pad (Yellow or orange Lake Country) with a heavy polish (PoorBoy's SSR3 or Meguiar's 105) to remove swirls. Finish with a polishing pad (Lake Country white pad) and light polish (PB SSR1 or Meg 205) to restore shine prior to adding a sealant or wax to the paint, which can be applied by hand with foam applicator pads. Remove all products after applying with a MF towel.
I like to use an All Purpose Cleaner diluted to about 8:1 with water in a spray bottle to clean dash and carpet.
Use microfiber towels for interior plastics and pick a up a few soft paint brushes or use old toothbrushes to get into crevices. You don't have to spend money on pro detailing brushes. You can wrap the towel around the end of the toothbrush to get in your vent fins, or spray them with compressed air.
Make sure to use an interior protection product to keep your trim alive, since I find the APC to be very drying.
For carpet, vacuum first then same thing with the APC, but use a medium stiff bristled brush (You don't want something to stiff to rip the carpet fibers, check the floor cleaning isle).
Let dry, vacuum again and repeat until you've achieved desired results. Follow up with some carpet protection product (I use cheap Bissel stuff for house carpet, it works just fine)
Clean the area with rubbing alcohol and let dry, then apply as little as possible paint as possible to fill in the rock chips.
If you are careful enough, you should be able to level out the pits by dabbing the end of the included mini paint brush in the "valley" of each chip.
make sure to shake the bottle really well and try to clean the end of the brush from globs of paint on the top of the bottle to prevent dripping anywhere you don't want it, and/or using too much paint.
Using this method,, you should be able to get away without using sandpaper, usually a polish compound afterward levels the "hills" of paint afterward out nicely.
For plastic, I like to use AutoGlym Vinyl & Rubber care for short term restoration and protection.
For long-term care I like Black Wow.
Look into a dual orbital polisher (7424 or equivalent, they will mostly all be fairly equal in performance) and a cutting pad (Yellow or orange Lake Country) with a heavy polish (PoorBoy's SSR3 or Meguiar's 105) to remove swirls. Finish with a polishing pad (Lake Country white pad) and light polish (PB SSR1 or Meg 205) to restore shine prior to adding a sealant or wax to the paint, which can be applied by hand with foam applicator pads. Remove all products after applying with a MF towel.
I like to use an All Purpose Cleaner diluted to about 8:1 with water in a spray bottle to clean dash and carpet.
Use microfiber towels for interior plastics and pick a up a few soft paint brushes or use old toothbrushes to get into crevices. You don't have to spend money on pro detailing brushes. You can wrap the towel around the end of the toothbrush to get in your vent fins, or spray them with compressed air.
Make sure to use an interior protection product to keep your trim alive, since I find the APC to be very drying.
For carpet, vacuum first then same thing with the APC, but use a medium stiff bristled brush (You don't want something to stiff to rip the carpet fibers, check the floor cleaning isle).
Let dry, vacuum again and repeat until you've achieved desired results. Follow up with some carpet protection product (I use cheap Bissel stuff for house carpet, it works just fine)
4AudiQ
New member
Here is my polishing technique:
Detailing - 5 Steps:
Step 1 - Clay Bar.
Step 2 - Meguiar’s M105 with the Yellow Pad
(Heavy Cut) (Compound)
Step 3 - Meguiar’s M205 using the White pads
(Medium Cut) (Polish)
Step 4 - Menzerna PO85RD using the Black pads
(Finishing Polish)
Step 5 - Menzerna Power Lock using the Gold pads
(Seal)
M105 Polish (Compound):
Step 2
* Procedure - Work on areas of about 2 square feet.
1. Apply two, 8 inch lines of polish on the paint.
2. Mist the foam compounding pad with water or foam pad lubricant and, with machine off, spread polish over the surface. (Yellow Pad)
3. Set the Porter Cable's speed control between 3-1/2 and 4.
4. Place the pad on the paint and turn the polisher on.
5. Work over the area in a figure-8 pattern until almost dry.
6. Mist the surface with a 50/50 solution of Isopropyl Alcohol and water.
7. Wipe off residues and inspect the surface. If defects and swirls are still present, continue compounding.
Autopia response of 12/27/06:
“An aside for using Menzerna Intensive Polish (PO91L) that you have in white rectangular bottles - these products respond well to a "slow-cutting" method by PC. The abrasives in these are aluminum oxide and are quite brittle, so too much pressure at the start shatters the abrasives before they have had a chance to break down naturally by cutting... To get round this, I apply as follows: spread polish at speed 3 with no pressure and then make three passes at speed 5 with no pressure; stop machine, spritz pad and then make three more passes at speed 5 with no pressure; stop the machine, spritz pad and make three more passes at speed 5 with no pressure; stop the machine, spritz pad and then make three or four passes at speed 6 with medium pressure. This allows the abrasives to break down by cutting and I have had better defect removal results using this technique, so if you are having difficulties using the "standard" methods, this is well worth a try”
Spread Polish at Speed 3, no pressure.
3 passes at Speed 5 X 3, spritz with no pressure.
3 passes at Speed 6, spritz with medium pressure.
M205:
Step 3 - M205 using the White pads
*Procedure - Work on areas of about 2 square feet.
1. Apply two, 8 inch lines of polish on the paint.
2. Mist a White Foam Polishing Pad with water and, with machine off, spread polish over the surface. (White Pad)
3. Set the Porter Cable's speed control between 3-1/2 and 4.
4. Place the pad on the paint and turn the polisher on.
5. Work over the area in a figure-8 pattern until almost dry.
6. Spray the surface with a 50/50 solution of Isopropyl Alcohol and water. Wipe off polishing residues with a Microfiber cloth until surface is dry. Continue polishing in 2 square foot sections until vehicle is done.
Micro Polish:
Step 4 - Menzerna PO85RD using the Black pads
1. Apply two, 8 inch lines of polish on the paint.
2. Mist a Black Foam Polishing Pad with water and, with machine off, spread polish over the surface. (Black Pad)
3. Set the Porter Cable's speed control between 3-1/2 and 4.
4. Place the pad on the paint and turn the polisher on.
5. Work over the area in a figure-8 pattern until almost dry.
6. Spray the surface with a 50/50 solution of Isopropyl Alcohol and water. Wipe off polishing residues with a Microfiber cloth until surface is dry. Continue polishing in 2 square foot sections until vehicle is done.
Seal:
Step 5 - Menzerna Power Lock using the Gold pads
1. Apply two, 8 inch lines of polish on the paint.
2. Mist a Gold Foam Polishing Pad with water and, with machine off, spread polish over the surface. (Gold Pad)
3. Set the Porter Cable's speed control between 3-1/2 and 4.
4. Place the pad on the paint and turn the polisher on.
5. Work over the area in a figure-8 pattern until almost dry.
6. Wipe off polishing residues with a Microfiber cloth until surface is dry. Continue polishing in 2 square foot sections until vehicle is done.
Detailing - 5 Steps:
Step 1 - Clay Bar.
Step 2 - Meguiar’s M105 with the Yellow Pad
(Heavy Cut) (Compound)
Step 3 - Meguiar’s M205 using the White pads
(Medium Cut) (Polish)
Step 4 - Menzerna PO85RD using the Black pads
(Finishing Polish)
Step 5 - Menzerna Power Lock using the Gold pads
(Seal)
M105 Polish (Compound):
Step 2
* Procedure - Work on areas of about 2 square feet.
1. Apply two, 8 inch lines of polish on the paint.
2. Mist the foam compounding pad with water or foam pad lubricant and, with machine off, spread polish over the surface. (Yellow Pad)
3. Set the Porter Cable's speed control between 3-1/2 and 4.
4. Place the pad on the paint and turn the polisher on.
5. Work over the area in a figure-8 pattern until almost dry.
6. Mist the surface with a 50/50 solution of Isopropyl Alcohol and water.
7. Wipe off residues and inspect the surface. If defects and swirls are still present, continue compounding.
Autopia response of 12/27/06:
“An aside for using Menzerna Intensive Polish (PO91L) that you have in white rectangular bottles - these products respond well to a "slow-cutting" method by PC. The abrasives in these are aluminum oxide and are quite brittle, so too much pressure at the start shatters the abrasives before they have had a chance to break down naturally by cutting... To get round this, I apply as follows: spread polish at speed 3 with no pressure and then make three passes at speed 5 with no pressure; stop machine, spritz pad and then make three more passes at speed 5 with no pressure; stop the machine, spritz pad and make three more passes at speed 5 with no pressure; stop the machine, spritz pad and then make three or four passes at speed 6 with medium pressure. This allows the abrasives to break down by cutting and I have had better defect removal results using this technique, so if you are having difficulties using the "standard" methods, this is well worth a try”
Spread Polish at Speed 3, no pressure.
3 passes at Speed 5 X 3, spritz with no pressure.
3 passes at Speed 6, spritz with medium pressure.
M205:
Step 3 - M205 using the White pads
*Procedure - Work on areas of about 2 square feet.
1. Apply two, 8 inch lines of polish on the paint.
2. Mist a White Foam Polishing Pad with water and, with machine off, spread polish over the surface. (White Pad)
3. Set the Porter Cable's speed control between 3-1/2 and 4.
4. Place the pad on the paint and turn the polisher on.
5. Work over the area in a figure-8 pattern until almost dry.
6. Spray the surface with a 50/50 solution of Isopropyl Alcohol and water. Wipe off polishing residues with a Microfiber cloth until surface is dry. Continue polishing in 2 square foot sections until vehicle is done.
Micro Polish:
Step 4 - Menzerna PO85RD using the Black pads
1. Apply two, 8 inch lines of polish on the paint.
2. Mist a Black Foam Polishing Pad with water and, with machine off, spread polish over the surface. (Black Pad)
3. Set the Porter Cable's speed control between 3-1/2 and 4.
4. Place the pad on the paint and turn the polisher on.
5. Work over the area in a figure-8 pattern until almost dry.
6. Spray the surface with a 50/50 solution of Isopropyl Alcohol and water. Wipe off polishing residues with a Microfiber cloth until surface is dry. Continue polishing in 2 square foot sections until vehicle is done.
Seal:
Step 5 - Menzerna Power Lock using the Gold pads
1. Apply two, 8 inch lines of polish on the paint.
2. Mist a Gold Foam Polishing Pad with water and, with machine off, spread polish over the surface. (Gold Pad)
3. Set the Porter Cable's speed control between 3-1/2 and 4.
4. Place the pad on the paint and turn the polisher on.
5. Work over the area in a figure-8 pattern until almost dry.
6. Wipe off polishing residues with a Microfiber cloth until surface is dry. Continue polishing in 2 square foot sections until vehicle is done.
Bill D
Hooked For Life
awc428--
:welcome I think once the detailing bug bites you, there might be no turning back!
There's SO much info here. Glad to have you. :wavey
:welcome I think once the detailing bug bites you, there might be no turning back!
There's SO much info here. Glad to have you. :waveyThanks 4AudiQ for the info.
Bill I know when I start I wont be able to stop. I definitely get my mind on things and get a little obsessed ha. I'm sure that's a common trait in this forum. The thing that makes it difficult for me is living in an apt complex and not having a garage. I also put over 30k miles a year on the truck so it definitely gets used. Trying to keep it clean is a process in itself, but I know when I do a good detail on it it will be much easier to keep up with it. I truly can't wait to get the time to devote to getting her done!
Bill I know when I start I wont be able to stop. I definitely get my mind on things and get a little obsessed ha. I'm sure that's a common trait in this forum. The thing that makes it difficult for me is living in an apt complex and not having a garage. I also put over 30k miles a year on the truck so it definitely gets used. Trying to keep it clean is a process in itself, but I know when I do a good detail on it it will be much easier to keep up with it. I truly can't wait to get the time to devote to getting her done!
Accumulator
Well-known member
awc428- Welcome to Autopia!
For the exterior plastic trim, I like to use Klasse All In One, topped with something like Collinite 845 Insulator Wax. Yeah, on plastic! Sounds nutty but it works great and doesn't need redone all the time the way dressings do.
For the exterior plastic trim, I like to use Klasse All In One, topped with something like Collinite 845 Insulator Wax. Yeah, on plastic! Sounds nutty but it works great and doesn't need redone all the time the way dressings do.
I like the idea of not having to reapply all the time! Ok I have one more question I forgot to ask. Does any one have a list of everything I will need for an exterior detail? It doesn't need to be brands but types of product/equipment? How many pads etc? Thanks for helping out this pre-beginner lol!
awc428 said:
I'm pretty sure everything was mentioned for paint correction in this thread.
You will also need:
Car wash soap.
Rim and/or tire cleaner spray
Cheap foam pads (kitchen isle usually) - Non scuff version -> For cleaning wheels, and dressing tires
MF towels - remove tags from them, for now you can use general purpose ones for everything
Large MF Towel to dry vehicle after cleaning, or chamois (I don't like)
If you have access to compressed air, it works well to dry wheels/tires, also pools of water left on vehicle after washing
Stiff brush for cleaning tires
Wash mitt or sponge.
One bucket (if you prefer to rinse and remove dirt from your washing sponge with hose prior to re-soaping it) or;
Two buckets (rinse dirty sponge in clean water prior to re-soaping)
Access to water
Garden hose
Garden hose attachment
Vinyl and Rubber detail spray for tires/trim (can also get dedicated tire shine if preferred)
Spray detail - Good to use on paint after drying with MF (can also be used on windows) and/or;
Window cleaner (Use with MF)
That's about all the essential equipment you will need. Read label directions for proper use of products.
b34tBoX said:I'm pretty sure everything was mentioned for paint correction in this thread.
You will also need:
Car wash soap.
Rim and/or tire cleaner spray
Cheap foam pads (kitchen isle usually) - Non scuff version -> For cleaning wheels, and dressing tires
MF towels - remove tags from them, for now you can use general purpose ones for everything
Large MF Towel to dry vehicle after cleaning, or chamois (I don't like)
If you have access to compressed air, it works well to dry wheels/tires, also pools of water left on vehicle after washing
Stiff brush for cleaning tires
Wash mitt or sponge.
One bucket (if you prefer to rinse and remove dirt from your washing sponge with hose prior to re-soaping it) or;
Two buckets (rinse dirty sponge in clean water prior to re-soaping)
Access to water
Garden hose
Garden hose attachment
Vinyl and Rubber detail spray for tires/trim (can also get dedicated tire shine if preferred)
Spray detail - Good to use on paint after drying with MF (can also be used on windows) and/or;
Window cleaner (Use with MF)
That's about all the essential equipment you will need. Read label directions for proper use of products.
That looks like a complete list to me! Thank you for taking the time to share this info. I do have to say I have been a part of a lot of different forums and this has to be the most friendl and helpful that I have ever been a part of! I truly appreciate the input from everyone and really look forward to staying a member here for a long time to come!