Need something stronger to tackle water etchngs

Maybe someone needs to tell him to keep it in PMs and off the public forums. They are the only 2 guys that are constantly at each other. AlBoston seems to be getting more immature by the post. His whiney post the other day in the forum feedback section was just about the dumbest. I'm glad it got removed.
 
For the past 3 or so years that I have been polishing with my first generation PC 7424, I have been using the Danase Swril Abolishers II and I (very easy to use, but no longer available) and these have usually all I have needed to correct and are really easy to use. I've come to a point where I need something stronger to remove some tough water etchings. I used the SAs and they were gone for a week through hot and rainy weather, then one day there was a t strom and they reappeared. I don't know if they were just being masked or something triggered them again. I'm not an expert polisher by any means, so I have been reading what I can about using M105. All I can say with all of the techniques and methods out there, along with the different kinds of pads use and priming methods used, it can be really intimidating. I don't really feel like experimenting and polishing my car many times to get corrected and haze free results, so I have been looking at Meguiars Ultimate Compound since it is supposed to be not as harsh than 105, yet agressive, and is supposedly easier to use with less hazing. Plus I want to get these out asap if I can, I don't want them to get any deeper if possible.

From those with experience using Meguiars UC, is it usually enough to tackle type II water etchings or those that may be a little more? What kind of correction results can be done with Ultimate Compound? I am working with a newer GM vehicle which is supposeldy has a harder finish (no not a Vette either in case thiers is harder yet)

After using Ultimate Compound, do I need to go to a like a step II swirl remover then go to a step I swril remover/finishing polish, or can I usually just go straight to a finishing polish?

Also, do 5.5 pads work well with it? If so, which work better the LC CCS or flats, or is it just a matter of preference? I am assuming I should use orange pads with it, right?



Like I said I am not familiar with many polishing or compounding products other than the Danase Swirl Abolishers that I have used, but if you feel that there is something that is easy for most anyone to get the hang of using, yet have good cutting power, let me know. I am open to suggestions. The only reason I considered UC is becuase I read that is a stronger cut but easier to use than M105.



Also, if any of you guys on here are pro detailers and are in the TN area or noth Alabama or souther Kentucky, and are available, I'd be glad to let you all have at this job. There are just some things that seem beyond my skill set, and this is starting to seem like one of them. But I have no other options since I can't locate any higher end professional detailers around here, and I'll be darned if I let someone like Bubbas Detail shop home of the $99 buff job touch my car. So at the moment it seem like its totally up to me. But if you all are in the area or know someone who is, let me know PM or reply, I'd rather have it done right the first time since these marks are bumming me out and making me sick to my stomach eveytime I look at my car
 
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