Need detailing product suggestions

B

BlueZ71

New member
HI - I just bought atruck which has, to the best of my knowledge, never been formally detailed. It does look like it has wax all over in the cracks and such (on the door handles and door jam, etc.



Iwas wondering if you were going to be all the detailing stiff from Autopia, what would you purchase (money no object)? A kit? towels? etc. What is everything I need?



The truck is a 2000 and the paint looks nice, but it is not super smooth.



Thanks for the help - I plan I completely detailing the weekend of the 11th so any suggestions fbefore I by would be great.



blue
 
Blue you may not get alot of response because we want people to do their homework.



some suggestions



Meguiars scratch x

Meguiars gold class shampoo

TW bug and tar remover

Eagle one A2Z wheel cleaner

good wash mit ( hard to find )

Klasse AIO

either Klasse SG or s100 paste wax.

most important some good microfiber towels.



good luck



BTW: Great infor. just click on the learn buttom at the top of the home page.
 
OK - I hear ya, just running low on time and thought I may get a little cheat sheet. I've been researching, but this seems like a confusing world. I suppose I should take my licks with the trial and error method.



Thanks for the input.



B
 
For another option, you could use Poorboys World Products.



1) SSR1 - Light abrasive swirl remover

2) Professional Polish - Non abrasive polish

3) EX Sealant w/ Carnauba

4) Quick Detailer Plus



If the swirls are bad, then you may also need SSR2 - medium abrasive swirl remover.



Here are some other suggestions:

ClayMagic to clay the clar and some lubricant (car wash/water)

Stoner's Invisible Glass

Stoner's More Shine Less Time tire spray

Sheepskin wash mit

MF towels from pakshak or ultramicrofiber (ebay)

Foam applicators

wash bucket

Tire/wheel brush

Megs Vinyl & rubber cleaner/conditioner

Lexol leather cleaner & Lexol conditoiner (if you have leather)





Now, if you can afford one, get a Porter Cable 7424 dual action polisher (PC). This will run you about $109 at Lowes. Then you will need pads and a velcro backing plate so go to properautocare.com and get the DM-DLX pad kit that includes the velcro backing plate and the 7.5" pads. This is the best tool I own.



This should get you started.



Jeremy
 
I've done it and it looked great. I'm not sure about the durability because the polish does contain carnauba and is not a pure polish like the directions call for. I haven't had it on that long to find out. What I have found out is that EX seems to be very compatible on just about everything I've tried. My favorite is EX over Klasse AIO/SG for the ultra durability, shine and depth. My RX300 is pearl white and it shines like I've never seen it shine before.



Just remember to put on 3 coats. You will notice a dramatic improvement after the 2nd coat, but go for 3.



Jeremy
 
Don't forget the old toothbrush, soft bristles. I use them when washing by flodding an area, object with suds then gently using the susdy tooth brush to clean up the excess wax in the cracks and crevices. I use the AIO/SG, S100 combo on my own truck, easy on and off and quite simple to maintain.
 
BlueZ71, nobody means to beat your chops. It's A-OK to ask newbie questions -- after all, that's what Autopia Univ forum is for. Problem is, you really didn't give us any info. Do you have anything on hand? Do you have a PC? buckets? mitts? what polishes/waxes/shampoos do you have on hand? Do you need to pick stuff up locally? or are you willing to order via the web? And so on and so on ....



In general, you need good stuff to

1. wash (buckets (2), mitts, shampoo)

2. dry (waffleweaves rule, IMHO)

3. clay -- both Mothers and Claymagic make excellent kits with clay and lube in a package available at Autozone, PepBoys, etc.

4. polish, glaze, swirl removal -- to give you good info we have to know more about the condition of your paint, what products you have on hand, and whether you'll be doing it via PC or by hand

5. sealant or wax -- again, we need to know what you have on hand, and whether you're inclined to go the sealant route or wax route. In your shoes -- more to the point: in your climate! -- I'd definitely go the sealant route, and I'm sold on Zaino. But some folks find that Klasse works better on dark-colored vehicles.



And you definitely need a good selection (at least 6) of good microfibers for the claying, polish removal, wax-buffing, etc. Lots of good sources for those: PakShak, MF Tech, and Poorboys all are in my MF Hall of Fame.



We're here to help. Ya just gotta give us more info.
 
Okay - ponit well taken.



I basically have nothing and am starting fresh.



I have dark blue metallic paint that is in pretty good conditoion (it's a 2000 truck).



I don't have a PC but am willing to buy one. How do you make the decision to use one or not to? I don't believe I have swirl marks.



It looks like the truck may have been waxed once due to the residue left behind. I don't know wether I should polish, glaze, seal or wax - I just don't know how to determine that and what products to use.



I would like to buy all of it off the web.



Thanks for the patience,



Blue
 
Well, here goes.



If your paint is in good condition then here is what you should do:



1) Wash car with dawn

2) Clay using car soap as lubricant

3) Wash car again

4) Polish with Megs #9 Swirl Remover 2.0 or equivalent

5) Apply Klasse AIO (2 coats) and wipe with MF towel

6) Apply Klasse SG, wait at least 2 hours and buff with MF towel

7) Wait at least 24 hours between coats of SG (3-4 coats is good and doesn't have to be done right away)

8) Apply wax of choice (optional)



If you have swirls, then use Megs DACP in between 3&4



Using a PC will make polishing and removing swirls a LOT easier. So if you have 'em, get one. Applying Klasse is easy by hand so no need to use it to apply Klasse, although I use the PC with a white pad for AIO.



Good luck and have at it!



Jeremy
 
You can get the Klasse products righ there on Autopia, just click 'Shop!' at the top right of the page. You can also substitute the Menzerna polishes for the Megs stuff I recommended. The Intensive Polish is the more aggressive and the Final is what you would use in place of Megs #9. Or you can order from properautocare.com. They carry everything you need, including the PC and pads. Although you can get a PC at your local Lowes or get it from coastaltool.com. They have the best price and it includes a 6" velcro backing plate. You should get the pads from properautocare or topoftheline.com.



Any additional ?'s, just ask.



Jeremy
 
I probably don't know as much as jeremyp111 and others. But the one "bone to pick" is the recommendation to begin by washing with Dawn dishwashing liquid. Dawn is useful if you have waxes, glazes, etc. on your paint. But if this vehicle doesn't have that, just start with a high-quality car-wash shampoo. I use Zaino usually, but recently tried Mother's Gold Class and was amazed at its sudsiness and lubricity.



If you are thinking about using a sealant, be sure to check out the Klasse instructions (by jimwh) and Zaino tips (by Nick) in the Hall of Fame forum. And also read the instructions Klasse & Zaino put on their websites; they're really good!
 
Lynn said:
I probably don't know as much as jeremyp111 and others. But the one "bone to pick" is the recommendation to begin by washing with Dawn dishwashing liquid. Dawn is useful if you have waxes, glazes, etc. on your paint. But if this vehicle doesn't have that, just start with a high-quality car-wash shampoo. I use Zaino usually, but recently tried Mother's Gold Class and was amazed at its sudsiness and lubricity.
Click to expand...



Agreed. I just don't understand the fascination with Dawn washing unless you are preparing the paint for Zaino. I also have not figured out why people wash their cars again after using clay. I've never seen clay directions that recommend washing after using...they either recommend using a polish or going straight to wax, depending on the condition of the paint.



BTW, I'm not picking on you Jeremy, I'm just trying to understand the rational behind Dawn washing and rewashing after claying.
 
Scottwax said:
BTW, I'm not picking on you Jeremy, I'm just trying to understand the rational behind Dawn washing and rewashing after claying.
Click to expand...

Ditto! I'm not picking on Jeremy either. But I'm with you on this, Scottwax: the Dawn-wash-mania and wash-after-claying also leave me stumped.
 
Lynn said:
Ditto! I'm not picking on Jeremy either. But I'm with you on this, Scottwax: the Dawn-wash-mania and wash-after-claying also leave me stumped.
Click to expand...



It isn't just on Autopia either. I see it in the detailing forums I mod on other boards and ones I've visited.



Still, it is probably better for the paint than a customer of mine who had been washing her red non-clearcoated S10 Jimmy with Simple Green and she mixed it 50/50 with water "to make sure her truck got real clean"...and real faded.:shocked
 
Alright already........I'm starting to feel like a redheaded stepchild over here! LOL

NO MORE DAWN WASHES AND WASHING AFTER CLAYING! LMFAO



:o
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top