My technique or my product?

[WuNgUn]

I polished my car yesterday, using my PC, BUT with 7.5" rotary pads, not the 6.5" DA pads...
I also use SSR2 and 1...orange cutting pad with the SSR2 and a white pad with the 1.
But this didn't alleviate all the swirl marks in the paint. It's much better than it was, but not the the level I was expecting...
Should I have started out with SSR2.5 or 3? Or maybe it's my technique (first time PC user)?
I used the polish liberally, started at a slow speed to work it in (2-3), then sped it up to 5 or 5.5. The product starts out creamy, then after 10 or 15 seconds, clumps slightly, an after another 15 seconds or so, the product seem to go transparent. That, or it's just the other ingredients being left behind? Anyways, I worked the area for maybe 1 to 2 minutes, let it sit for a minute and wiped away with a MF towel...
Is this the proper technique?
Like I said, the paint was maybe damaged more than I liked to admit and needed a courser abrasive...or my technique is flawed...
I'd like to hear what you think...thanks!

 

[joe.p]

Heres a thread on using the PBs products. If you have some deep swirls or surface scratches you can go to the SSR 2.5 with a polishing pad.Their is another thread/video showing the amount of polish to use and how long to work it. Make sure you work long enough so the SSrs can do the job. The best thing you can do is experiment with your PC also apply some pressure when polishing.Don't be scared just get out their and do it

http://www.detailcity.org/forums/po...s-products-pc-speeds-pads.html?highlight=ssrs

http://melncal.com/detailing/pc_video.html

http://www.detailcity.org/forums/de...ter-cable-video-demo.html?highlight=ssr+video

Here are a few more threads i hope this will help.Good Luck

 

[WuNgUn]

Heres a thread on using the PBs products. If you have some deep swirls or surface scratches you can go to the SSR 2.5 with a polishing pad.Their is another thread/video showing the amount of polish to use and how long to work it. Make sure you work long enough so the SSrs can do the job. The best thing you can do is experiment with your PC also apply some pressure when polishing.Don't be scared just get out their and do it

http://www.detailcity.org/forums/po...s-products-pc-speeds-pads.html?highlight=ssrs

http://melncal.com/detailing/pc_video.html

Thanks for the links!
Also, I was just thinking...the rotary pads I have are contoured on the bottom...not flat like the DA Lake Country pads. Could this explain the somewhat poor performance/clumping?

 

[CharlesW]

It seems like I have read that rotary pads are different from DA pads in more than just size and shape. Like the actual foam composition is different.
That might explain your lack of satisfactory results.

Charles

 

[WuNgUn]

It seems like I have read that rotary pads are different from DA pads in more than just size and shape. Like the actual foam composition is different.
That might explain your lack of satisfactory results.

Charles

I also notice everybody uses SSR2.5 (not 2)...is the SSR2 not cutting well enough? I noticed a pic of someone who used only SSR1 with amazing results (on highly damaged paint)...
So I have to spend another $50 on DA pads?
Anyone interested in 4 rotary pads? Used once! lol

 

[Anthony A]

I polished my car yesterday, using my PC, BUT with 7.5" rotary pads, not the 6.5" DA pads...
I also use SSR2 and 1...orange cutting pad with the SSR2 and a white pad with the 1.
But this didn't alleviate all the swirl marks in the paint. It's much better than it was, but not the the level I was expecting...
Should I have started out with SSR2.5 or 3? Or maybe it's my technique (first time PC user)?
I used the polish liberally, started at a slow speed to work it in (2-3), then sped it up to 5 or 5.5. The product starts out creamy, then after 10 or 15 seconds, clumps slightly, an after another 15 seconds or so, the product seem to go transparent. That, or it's just the other ingredients being left behind? Anyways, I worked the area for maybe 1 to 2 minutes, let it sit for a minute and wiped away with a MF towel...
Is this the proper technique?
Like I said, the paint was maybe damaged more than I liked to admit and needed a courser abrasive...or my technique is flawed...
I'd like to hear what you think...thanks!

The PC is not that aggressive. You might/probably need to do more applications. I have had to do 4-5 sometimes 6 applications with a cutting pad and compound to remove some defects on peoples cars. Also apply some pressure and slow down the hand speed that you move the PC across the paint. I move it very slowly and let it work the area. Don't be afraid to crank it to speed 6 either when trying to correct paint.

 

[Brenton]

DOn't use SSR3 unless you have to.
2.5 does more than 2.
PB's may leave specks if they get damp or dry out before heating through.
Work through the transparent phase until it is all but gone.