My Process With Pics

C

Chang

New member
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There are the problem areas.



I recently bought a PC7336 and I'm not sure if it is enough to tackle that paint on my Super Red 91 MR2, or if I will need to buy a rotary. But here is my plan to tackle this.



Keep in mind NO CLEARCOAT



Wash

Clay

Wash



Here is where the questions arise:

Megs #83 DACP on a Cutting pad

Megs #80 Speed Glaze on a Polishing Pad

Megs #26 On a finishing pad



or



PB SSR2.5 on a Cutting Pad

PB SSR1 on a polishing pad

PB paste wax on a finishing pad



Other questions:

1. Would using a cutting pad be to aggresive?

2. Would #83 or 2.5 enough or should I step it up to SSR3 or something similar?

3. Am I missing any steps such as another product I should use?

4. Do you guys have a better process with a different sequence of products?

5. Which wax should I use on my super red car? ( can't afford pinnacle sov)

6. Megs products or Poorboys or is there another line that works better?

7. Would it be safe to use these products on the oxidation on the edges?

8. How would I go about getting into those areas with my PC.



I'm sure I missed some questions I had and I'm sure I will think of more as I go along so I will keep on updating this thread.



Any input will be greatly appreciated



Thanks In Advance



- Chris
 
Chris,





Here's what I would do...



-Wash

-Clay

-Wash

-Menzerna Powergloss

-Menzerna FPII

-Sealant/Wax





However, for your products listed, I think the 83,80,26 would work best. 83 has cleaners in it which would help with the oxidation removal. You will definately need a cutting pad, and will need to wash it often (rinse, soak with APC or Dawn, Rinse, and spin dry). For wax/sealant, I would go with Poorboy's EX. It is the best mix (IMO) of looks and durability for red. 4* UPP/Menzerna FMJ would be next.
 
4" lowest grit foam ( highest cutting ) for tough areas . Rotary would be easiest imho , even a HarborFreight 6 speed cheapie just to " get it right " then finish out with you PC .

None of it looks thats bad , so the right pad will make quick work of it
 
definately something thats easily fixed with a PC?



now is it something that can be completely fixed with enough time and effort or am I passed that now?



And since I'm still kind of new maybe I'm going about it the wrong way which sequence of products would you pro's use to get the best look, money would be no object.



Would I need more then 1 of each pad type b/c they would cake up easily? Or is there a pad cleaner type brush that I can use to remove caked on chemicals as I go?
 
You dont need more than one pad of each grade . Pads last about 20 uses and yes they have cleaning brushes and pad cleaner http://www.superiorcarcare.net/padtool.html is the brush

http://www.superiorcarcare.net/pin620.html is the cleaner .

I dont know about PC much , I use a Makita rotary exclusively . I bought a harbor freight tool though just to have it and let my little brother use on without having to have me be home so he can use my Makita .

I wont let that leave the house :-)
 
hmmm if I bought a harbor freight rotary, and used a fairly slow speed 800-1000 and a fairly low abrasive pad and polish combo (light cutting/polishing pad + megs #80 or swirl remover?) you guys think I will be able to get the imperfections completely out? or would I have to go with a more accident prone method.
 
Thing is on a harbor freight , full speed ( with proper pressure ) is about 1500 rpm even though rated at 3000 rpm no load
 
papi_jay said:
Thing is on a harbor freight , full speed ( with proper pressure ) is about 1500 rpm even though rated at 3000 rpm no load
Click to expand...



This is very true. The CE rotary from HF needs to be run at around setting 5 to be equivalent to the Makita. It will defnitely get the job done though. Kick the speed up a notch and watch the paint come to life.



JJ
 
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