My latest details 3.Iforget

S

Scottwax

New member
This is the trunk lid of a 1995 Lexus LS400 that I've been taking care of since it was new. I used Vanilla Moose and Carnauba Moose on it. I took a couple of full car shots, but since it is under covered parking and it was a sunny day, the pics were just too dark.



1099VM_CMW_reflections_LS400trunk.jpg




Another regular. This Escalade is about a year old now and this is the 3rd time I've detailed it. This one got Vanilla Moose and Winner's Choice Polymer Finishing Creme since it will probably be a good 3-4 months until I see it again.



10992002_Escalade.jpg




Here is a 350Z (first one I've gotten my hands on...and I didn't want to let go!). It had some swirls/scratches in the paint, so I used DACP, Swirl Free, Vanilla Moose and topped it with Carnauba Moose.



10992003_350Z.jpg




10992003_350Z_rear.jpg




10992003_350Z_fender.jpg
 
Quickstrike said:
Nice job hiding the 350z car owners identity, but what about the Escalade?
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The guy with the Escalade doesn't care. The person with the 350Z lurks here and I didn't ask him if he cared if his plate shows.
 
"

The professionally detailed cars have a better finish because of a process, not products. If it were only product, there wouldn't be an automobile detailing profession, because anyone can get anything a professional can. BUT WE CAN'T DO WHAT YOU DO".

Unknown



I second that "but we can't do what you do".



you're an inspiration, nice job
 
Do you notice a difference from going from DACP to Swirl Free to VM instead of going straight to VM, skipping the Swirl Free?



I always use the DACP, VM combo and never thought of using a step in between. I feel working the DACP with a PC at a high speed, allowing it to break down and then polish, takes away the need for a Swirl Free before the VM which I use with a PC as well.



It saves time for me. Just curious about your thoughts. Maybe because you do it by hand??



(by the way, VM is one of the best products in my opinion. I just love it! I put it on trim, glass, rubber etc...)
 
Scott, They all look great...like always. Particuarly the Escalade. I think its something about the sharp lines with the sharp reflections that gets me.



Question: What do you use on the chrome? I heard wax is definately not good for chrome...

1) It does not have any abrasives to remove blemishes

2) Mostly don't use it because it doesn't allow chrome to breath causing it to ultimately pit.



Is this true? I've heard and read it before but was unable to come up with any hard info as of today.



BTW: I use Old No.7 Chrome Polish and it blows away Mother's, Meguiar's, and Turtle Wax's Chrome Polish. Seems to be a little more abrasive to remove blemishes and leaves a deeper shine. Have you heard of this stuff before? Used it? Know where to buy it? I have 1/4 bottle left and can't seem to find any places to buy it.
 
Yeah baby!



Every time I see the work you do it both inspires me to be better and makes me groan coz I don't think I ever will be!



Scottwax, you have to give some tips to your peeps - pllllleeeeease sir!
 
Spilchy said:
Do you notice a difference from going from DACP to Swirl Free to VM instead of going straight to VM, skipping the Swirl Free?
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Swirl Free adds some depth and wetness to the finish and Vanilla Moose adds even more.



I know I am breaking down the DACP because it almost disappears when I work it and wipes off with ease-if you don't work it long enough, it seems to weld itself to the paint. As long as I use a folded terry cloth towel to apply DACP, I don't get any surface marring. I did when I used foam hand pads because it is just too hard to apply it with even pressure-my fingertips would push harder through the foam and lightly mar the paint.



It saves time for me. Just curious about your thoughts. Maybe because you do it by hand??
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Initially, it was because I was using foam hand pads and needed #82 to remove any fingertip induced marring. Now I do it because I think it adds to the shine and depth.



(by the way, VM is one of the best products in my opinion. I just love it! I put it on trim, glass, rubber etc...)
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Same here. Works fantastic on the plastic trim around windows too.
 
Oh yeah, forgot this one. I detail this ML430 about twice a year, the interior is always immaculate so I spent a little more time on the exterior this time. Clayed, polished with Vanilla Moose and sealed with Poorboy's EX.



10992001_ML430.jpg






GSRstilez-I use Vanilla Moose on chrome. It really brightens and shines it up. I am sure anyone who has used VM on chrome will highly recommend it.



phil7533-I used the blue Viking terry cloth towels you can buy at Pep Boys and Target. They are the brighter looking blue towels that are notably plusher than the slightly darked blue Viking towels (which, btw are great for windows).



AndyC-I don't really have any secrets, just many years of detailing full time as a career so I get a lot of practice. Probably the best advice is to prep the surface as close to perfection as possible prior to sealing. That means using clay when needed and the proper polishing steps the paint requires. If you take shortcuts, you won't get the results you want, no matter how good the products you use.
 
Here is one more shot of the LS400. I think this shot shows how reflective and wet looking even light colored paint can be with proper care, even on almost 9 year old paint (car was built in November 1994).



1099VM_CMW_reflections_LS400side.jpg
 
Greg said:
Scott, everything looks great. The tires of the M-Class look fantastic, what product/s did you use?
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Armor All. Seriously. Whatever they've changed in the formulation works. Tires look good for a couple of weeks too.
 
ExplEddieBauer said:
Red X's??
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:nixweiss Maybe photohost.org was down momentarily for maintenance when you were taking a gander at this thread.



I refreshed the page and the pics are there.
 
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