Multiple questions...

joshcaro

New member
Hey Guys and Gals. I have a few questions I need help on.



1) I know all the differences as far as mechinally and such between a rotary and the PC, but there is still one thing im unclear of. With a PC am I able to get rid of ALL the swirl marks and minor scratches? My car is red, and in the light you can see swirl marks (not totally bad, as I try to properly wash and dry my car, and I have washed, clayed, polished, glazed, and waxed all by hand). I want to invest in a PC, but I want to make sure It will get rid of what I am buying it for. With the rotary will it just makes things faster and be better for harsher paint defects.



2) My brother has a black 626 and the hood of his car is ugly. It looks as if acid or something has hit it all over, and theres little white circles all over his hood. I would like to get rid of these for him, but wouldnt know how. Could I wetsand down the hood and then take the PC and buff it back to normal?



Thank you guys!!
 
CutNAction said:
1) .......With a PC am I able to get rid of ALL the swirl marks and minor scratches? ........With the rotary will it just makes things faster and be better for harsher paint defects.



2) My brother has a black 626 and the hood of his car is ugly. It looks as if acid or something has hit it all over, and theres little white circles all over his hood. I would like to get rid of these for him, but wouldnt know how. Could I wetsand down the hood and then take the PC and buff it back to normal?

The answer to # 1 is dependant on the severity of the swirls and scratches along with the hardness of the paint. If they are indeed minor then you shouldn't have a problem removing them with a PC. Look through the Click & Brag forum and see some of the defects that are being removed with a PC. A rotary will remove more severe defects and remove them faster, but if you're not experienced with a rotary you can easily damage your paint.



On # 2 it depends on how deep the damage is. If it is etched through the clear coat all you can do is try to minimize them by smoothing out the edges a bit. Really hard to say w/o seeing a pic of them. If you feel them do they feel like depressions? How deep do they seem to be? You may want to try some Meg's Scratchx on them first. Wet-sanding would be tricky for a novice because it's easy to thin the clear coat too much (or even go through it).
 
When you run my fingers against the hood, I can not feel anything. We have tried everything to get rid of them, but they dont seem to really budge. I believe we will try with it again tommorow and Ill take some pictures for you guys. Thank you for your help.
 
CutNAction-Can't say about the Mazda hood, I assume you've tried clay and polish/compound. I dunno abot wetsanding. If you do that you might end up having to get the hood repainted anyhow if you thin the clear too much.



On the PC, there are sometimes cases where you can't just "work it longer" and get the results you're after. So there really are situations where you need a more aggressive machine. Before you buy, at least check out posts about the Cyclo.



I am confident in saying that a PC/Cylco is well worth it if you can swing the cost. Can't imagine detailing without one, life's just too short.



The rotary won't really replace the PC/Cyclo. You will often need to follow up a rotary session with the milder machine. Some people can get a perfect (i.e., hologram/swirl free) finish with the rotary every time (or so they say), but that's not something that you can count on right from the start; it comes from practice/experience. Note that "practice/experience" implies plenty of times when things didn't turn out just right ;)
 
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