Mothers Synwax - Durability?

S

schoi

New member
Basically, everything I've read about Synwax is great, particularly the bright shine it produces (as opposed to the darker version of its Reflections cousin) and its supposedly amazing ease of application.



That, of course, leaves me to wonder about its longevity. What's the word these days? I just finished 845ing yesterday, but I did pick up a bottle of Synwax today.
 
The shine was incredible ... briefly. I thought I found Zaino OTC and my search was over. But problems arouse. It "pooled" on trim and left white residue. I ended up giving it away.
 
It seems like durability is the achilles heel of Synwax. Why not do Synwax and (after 24 hours) top with 845? That would give you the best of all worlds.
 
I've been using FX for several months now on a silver car and love the look. It is so easy to apply that I was using it every few weeks so I can not comment on durability. Apply it thin. I now use the spray wax as a booster which is even easier. For winter I applied 845 over it. We will see how long it lasts. For $6.45 at Adv. Auto right now you can't beat it.
 
I have been following threads on the new Mothers waxes and have been wanting to give them a try. But if the durability is that bad..................I think I'll just stick with Zaino. I'm just not convinced of the new Mothers stuff.
 
Intercooled said:
I have been following threads on the new Mothers waxes and have been wanting to give them a try. But if the durability is that bad..................I think I'll just stick with Zaino. I'm just not convinced of the new Mothers stuff.
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Bite the bullet and get a bottle (less than $7) then you could give us a comparison. I would like to know from someone that has used Zaino. I've been curious about Zaino but unwilling to spend the money since the FX is working well. Also, I am not too concerned about durability because working on my car is therapeutic for me so I do it often, the way it looks and ease of application would be more imortant in my case. Just not sure if it is worth it if I am going to wax every month or so and the look is similar.
 
Around 2 1/2 months so far on a 01 f150. Its washed every 1-2 weeks. QD'ed with a couple of different things(NXT speed shine, EO wipe and shine, Long Haul). Durabililty would be around 2 1/2-3 months. Gloss is still there but imo it needs a reapplication. The road crews have a large budget and use a ton of salt up here. I prefer to top it with something carnuaba based though for extra protection and depth.



I've never had any problems in regards to trim staining. Give it a try. I will be posting some pics tomorrow of the truck mentioned above in the click and brag section.



Lorne
 
Between 7 and 10 weeks, weekly washing.



Slickness, beading and look won't tank after the first wash like many other more hyped products. In my eyes, it suffers less after the first wash that many others. Beading remains strong for the first washes.



I think it is durable enough for a daily driver, and I would even dare to use in the winter if a reapplication could be possible.



NBHFan, what is the meaning of "it pooled" Sorry, not native speaker of Shakespeare's language.... :o



I am also surprised about the "white residue" It is white dust, or white staining? I found that applied thick is as easy as thin, but it will dust a little (logical if you ask me)



Now, if you are coming from the 845, not even the most ardent Mother's fans will tell you that FX will give a fight to the IW in durability..... not going to happen. If you don't mind spending 15 minutes to throw another coat every 6-10 weeks, this is for you. As with many products, 2 coats 24 hrs apart work better than one coat. Better coverage and the mild cleaners won't remove all of the first coat.



Intercooled, give it a try. You won't be dissapointed.



Edit: Did I mention that no other product sparked more comments about the car look than FX? For my car, it is so shiny that it hides the flake, and I don't like it, but the majority of the rest disagreed :nixweiss



Alex
 
I got 3 months rain beading out of Reflections TopCoat-because its a resin based product the manufactuerer claims it will protect even after it quits beading. Another manufacturer claims that the higher the resin content the greater the gloss. Personally I think the Reflections line is a higher grade line(ingedient wise) than the FX line. The FX sparay wax does intrique me tho.
 
What exactly is the scientific way to tell there is still protection? I know some people judge by beading and others by feeling the surface, but those aren't always 100% correct, so what is the way that is at least 99% correct?
 
Pontman43 said:
What exactly is the scientific way to tell there is still protection? I know some people judge by beading and others by feeling the surface, but those aren't always 100% correct, so what is the way that is at least 99% correct?
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There is no scientific way to tell. No molecular test, no laser test, etc. But from my own opinion and opinions od people who are well educated on this subject, its just common sense that if the beading is gone, then the protection is gone. I dont want to start a war here, this subject had been brought many, many times.
 
Intercooled said:
There is no scientific way to tell. No molecular test, no laser test, etc. But from my own opinion and opinions od people who are well educated on this subject, its just common sense that if the beading is gone, then the protection is gone. I dont want to start a war here, this subject had been brought many, many times.
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I wasnt trying to doubt you or anything. I also base protection on beading. I was just wondering if there was a way to prove it for sure.
 
some manufacturers suggest a squeek test, some suggest looking for surface gloss, others suggest that when surface contaminents start to stick it is time to reapply the product. The problem is that manufacturers use several different ingredients. Some use acryllic or carnauba which bead water well. Others use resins which are softer and bead water less well. Some use blends of several ingredients. In the case of a "pure carnauba" eventually the carnauba evaporates-so water beading could be used as a guage. In the case of blended synthetics different ingredients could evaporate or degrade at different rates. The water beading may decrease but *varying levels* of protection may exist depending on what ingredients are used. IMO when several competing companies are saying the same things about how products work I tend to believe them UNLESS someone can post definitive info proving that they are lying.
 
also based on claims from Finish Kares website they claim the following.

caurnauba based waxes withstand a temp range up to 145-165 degree

synthetic waxes withstand up to 250 degrees

high temp resins can withstand up to 392-450 degrees



obviously the evaporation/degrading rates of those potential ingredients vary greatly. If you used a synthetic on front wheels it would degrade quicker than a high temp resin based product. This is why an MSDS sheet is a good idea for comparing product ingredients.
 
wannafbody said:
some manufacturers suggest a squeek test, some suggest looking for surface gloss, others suggest that when surface contaminents start to stick it is time to reapply the product. The problem is that manufacturers use several different ingredients. Some use acryllic or carnauba which bead water well. Others use resins which are softer and bead water less well. Some use blends of several ingredients. In the case of a "pure carnauba" eventually the carnauba evaporates-so water beading could be used as a guage. In the case of blended synthetics different ingredients could evaporate or degrade at different rates. The water beading may decrease but *varying levels* of protection may exist depending on what ingredients are used. IMO when several competing companies are saying the same things about how products work I tend to believe them UNLESS someone can post definitive info proving that they are lying.
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All very good points.



Water beading as a guide to durability can ONLY be used with pure NATURAL WAXES, like carnauba and montan wax, etc. NATURAL WAXES create surface tension which beads water. When they've gone, the surface tension is gone, the beading stops.



Hybrid (carnauba/synthetic) waxes cannot be evaluated this way, as the synthetic component can be made to bead with synthetic components that create positive surface tension, thus mimicking natural waxes. Synthetics can be made to bead by positive surface tension, to sheet by negative surface tension, or pool by creating neutral surface tension. The component that creates surface tension can diminish at a diferent rate to the protective properties.



The same is even more true of pure synthetics like FX, Reflections, NXT, Zaino, SG, UPP, etc.



So if you use a synthetic wax (sealant), IMO you'll be foolish to look at beading as your guide to durability.



As a point to consider, brand new paint will bead for months with no protection.
 
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