Microfiber detergent

[Coatings=crack]

Coatings=crack- Ah, OK...and I commend you on your Critical Thinking

If you get a chance, post back about how the Griot`s:regular Detergent Mix works out for you, I`m gonna keep an open mind.

With my old agitator-style washer finally dead (eh, only lasted 28 years ) and the replacement not here yet , I`ve been washing everything in the household HE one...oh man am I *RINSING*!! Takes that thing forever to get all the suds out even with an extra Wash cycle with Vinegar as the "detergent". This PoorBoy`s Typhoon MF Detergent is too [darn] sudsy for me (maybe because of my soft water), not buying it again. Even the Persil for the Household MFs takes lots of cycles.

Eh, I knee-jerk against buying PB stuff anyhow (for admittedly silly reasons), sorta figures that the one product I did by from them would be unsatisfactory

I recommend trying it. I’ve been doing this for 8 months now with the griots. I machine wash in an HE on hot wash cold rinse, second rinse. Dry on low for 25 mins on low and hang dry. My year old MF and PFM’s are soft and absorbent


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[rlmccarty2000]

I started off using Tide F&C and was very happy, then I received a bottle of CG microfiber wash and it too was fine, then I received a bottle of a PBMG brand (Pinnacle I think) and it worked good too. When I run out of the microfiber specific soap I’ll go back to Tide F&C just because we always have it around. Definitely one of those YMMV topics!

 

[Bill D]

I wonder how F&C compares to HD

 

[Accumulator]

I recommend trying [the mix of GG and F&C]..

Heh heh, I hesitate to try something different since I know what works for me (and now what *doesn`t* with that Typhoon..well, kinda doesn`t). That gallon of Typhoon will last at least another year so we`ll see what`s the New Hotness then.

.. I’ve been doing this for 8 months now with the griots. I machine wash in an HE on hot wash cold rinse, second rinse...

Huh, vastly different rinsing requirements here, even for clothing/etc...can`t remember the last time two rinses were sufficient!

This Electrolux HE we currently have does get everything *MUCH* cleaner than any of our previous HE washers, but two rinses is just getting started for us. We typically go from the first cycle straight to a "wash without detergent", also with two rinses, and then evaluate from there.

Dry on low for 25 mins on low and hang dry...

I`m curious why you don`t just dry them all the way in the Dryer? My towels (MF & cotton both) always come out best that way.

My year old MF and PFM’s are soft and absorbent..

Heh heh, they oughta be since they`re still so new!

While most of my (now-retired) WWMFs eventually quit picking up water despite staying soft, my Plush ones are all still fine after however many years despite the use of Drying Aids/SprayWaxes at every wash. My other Detailing MFs (for Polishes/LSPs/etc.) always last for ages, got many old YoSteve/Miracle Towel/etc. ones from the `90s that`re still fine, they basically don`t wear out.

 

[SWETM]

I started off using Tide F&C and was very happy, then I received a bottle of CG microfiber wash and it too was fine, then I received a bottle of a PBMG brand (Pinnacle I think) and it worked good too. When I run out of the microfiber specific soap I’ll go back to Tide F&C just because we always have it around. Definitely one of those YMMV topics!

There are a couple of detailing webshops and one where they mostly sells mf like TRC does. They specificly say to not use CG Microfiber Wash. I have not clue why they says this but seems like they have something in it that does something to the mf. It`s like use a wash detergent without any blech and softerner and CG MF Wash LOL. Would be very interesting to hear what it is in that don`t make it suitable according to them.

I use a wash detergent without any blech and softerner and that`s made for those with allergies. Works great when the mf is not to dirty. On the nicer mf I use a domestic brand mf wash detergent and it works awesome for me. It`s pricey here in Sweden with mf wash detergents. The prices is around $20 for 1L/ 34oz.

 

[Lonnie]

Took me a while to figure out what "F&C" was, but it is an acronym for "Free-and-Clear" meaning that this detergent is free and clear of using color dyes and fragrances to those people with sensitive skin or fragrances (nose) allergies. I do know that Eco-friendly LIQUID detergent formulas are using plant-based fats rather than animal fats.

Since I am not a chemist or a detergent or soap maker, someone will have to explain to me what these fats are used for. I do know that rendered animal fat is used in making home-made bar soaps. My deceased mother-in-law made home-made soap on the rural farm she grew up on as a youngster and would shave the bars with a sharp knife into the laundry buckets/tubs that they washed clothes by hand (She was old enough to born before electricity was in rural areas! Yes, I am old(er), too). She said it got out everything. Must of been because of the high amount of phosphates (lye) in the soap!

 

[Bill D]

I wonder if the cleaning power is more or less the same across the various Tides. I have Tide Ultra and Tide HD and both clean fairly well especially on my clothes.

 

[Accumulator]

Lonnie- Heh heh, sounds like your MiL and my parents were contemporaries...that sounds like the,oh...what was it?.. Naptha Soap?... that was around when I was a kid. I still remember being lectured about how lucky I was not to have to use the old galvanized washboard to do my laundry when I`d [gripe] about having to do it.

Bill D- Heh heh, the "what`s different about `em?" sounds like a LSP discussion. I`d sure *want* the [preicey one(s)] to work better given the cost, but that`s kinda "I want to believe", huh? Ditto for detergents that "don`t fade colors" for that matter.

SWETM- That`s good to know about the CG MF Detergent, thanks for posting it.

 

[Lonnie]

There is probably as much debate about washer types used to clean microfibers as the detergents themselves. I have talked to numerous sales-personnel and appliance service techs about which washers clean better, and for the residential/home use they ALL come with the same advice: mechanical agitator-type washers clean "better", which is an old-style top loader. When asked WHY the hi-end Hi-efficiency washers are ALL front loaders, similar to commercial washers, their reply is the same: high-efficiency MEANS less water and electrical energy use, not necessarily "better" cleaning. They will admit that with the correct number of wash cycles and rinse cycles available in HE washers, they will clean MORE laundry in a single wash because of the high-volume/capacity wash tub (another advantage to HE washers: large volume tubs for more clothes per wash load). HE washers are using the tumbling action of the clothes inside and the inside of the tub to act as the "agitator" to precipitate the cleaning action, along with computer-controlled rotation of the tub itself.

For the small loads of microfibers I do, the old agitator top loader works fine.

I asked a service tech how long a washer will last these days. His answer was, how often do you use it and how many loads do you do on wash-day? A large family that uses the washer daily and does 6 loads per day, you may only get 4 years out of it MAX. If you use it once a week and do three loads, you may get 8-10 years. Makes sense. His reply was that modern electronics and water do NOT mix, which is WHY most HE washers fail. The same service tech told me that the cost to replacing an out-of-warranty computer board (Usually one year-read the fine print; most factory warranties cover ONLY the mechanical parts longer, which is somewhat misleading!) is about 60% of the cost of buying a new washer. Needless to say, we are a throw-away society AND one of the attributes in consumer devices (electronics/appliances/vehicles) design is planned obsolescence; manufacturers WANT you to buy a new appliance every 4 or 5 years because technology and design innovations are changing so much in that (short) time. WHY design them to last longer and with today`s computer-aided design software and programs, engineers/designers/CAD techs can do that with relative ease and accelerated computer-simulated life-cycle verification and quality testing have shortened the new product design cycle to months, not years.

 

[Accumulator]

Lonnie- Yeah, dramatic diff in performance all right! Apparently even between older agitator-styles ones and what`s available now.

When the parts for my Kenmore were NA the Tech warned me that my free replacement would be a huge disappointment, actually thought I should sell it still in the box and use the $ to buy an older used model. If not for the hassle I`d do that. Every washer/dryer tech I`ve ever spoken with said the in *their* households they have ooold ones, that they wouldn`t own a newer model no matter what their wives think they want.

The new one gets delivered 12/23...we`ll see how it works.

Speaking of servicing old stuff instead of just replacing it, one of my old Sony receivers needs repaired again...anybody know a good Stereo Repair Place?

 

[PoweredByJenga]

I actually used for a 1st time a dedicated mf wash detergent from the only Australian company that makes them (bowdens). Its highly concentrated, about 20 ml to mid size load of 10 mf. It washed ok in the front loader, probably better then i expected.
The detergent has a chemical smell. To me it smells like Megs APC and has the same colour and consistency as 1 to 10 megs. Lol

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[phatrs]

I actually used for a 1st time a dedicated mf wash detergent from the only Australian company that makes them (bowdens). Its highly concentrated, about 20 ml to mid size load of 10 mf. It washed ok in the front loader, probably better then i expected.
The detergent has a chemical smell. To me it smells like Megs APC and has the same colour and consistency as 1 to 10 megs. Lol

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I’ll have to look out for that one. Bowden’s and Autoglym seem to be the only reasonable priced stuff here in Melbourne, when they’re on sale. Got two Boss Gloss for half price last week to use as a drying aid and I’m really happy with it.


Ben - Melbourne/Australia

Now: ‘19 VW Golf R, ‘15 Polo GTI
Before: ‘06 RenaultSport Megane 225 Cup, ‘14 VW Polo GTI, ‘12 VW Golf GTI, ‘06 VW Golf GTI, ‘05 VW Golf Sportline, ‘01 Holden Astra SRi, ‘00 Nissan Pulsar SSS, ‘99 Holden Astra CD, ‘98 Nissan Pulsar SLX, ‘91 Nissan Pulsar GL with Q engine swap, ‘80 Subaru Leone

 

[William_Wallace]

3D price is right