Microfiber detergent

Currently finishing up a bottle of CG’s microfiber detergent and looking for what is next to pick up

I have no complaints about the CG’s detergent, seems to clean my MF’s well....but I have never tried anything else so I can’t really base it off any baseline or anything.

Here is my question though. I see GG recommends adding their detergent to your normal All free and Clear. That makes sense to me because the All tree and Clear would have the viscosity? (If thats the correct term) to do the cleaning and the microfiber wash would be the conditioner I assume.

Realizing that the CG’s and the GG both seem to be purely liquid...couldn’t I just add the CG’s stuff the same way to All Free and Clear, or is the GG stuff a different base?


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Astouffer512- This is another of those "YMMV Topics", and one where experiences vary significantly.

*IMO* if what you`re doing now works fine for you, and the cost is acceptable to you, then you should just stick with it. I`d buy plenty of the CG MF Detergent during a Holiday Sale and never look back.

Noting that I wash my *household* MFs in Pesil...I wasted a lot of money and time, and went through a lot of frustration, trying MF Cleaning Approaches that others swear by. Mixing a MF Detergent with an OTC Laundry Detergent is something I`m simply not gonna do.
 
I just washed MFs this morning with Tide Heavy Duty. They came out fine. The yellow MF in the bunch even looked brighter than it did before. So far I’m satisfied with the Tide.
 
I have used 3D Towel Kleen, Micro Restorer and various PBMG house brands. At the moment I have gone back to micro restore and it works just fine.
 
Do these microfiber-specific detergents clean microfibers "better" than high-end over-the-counter laundry detergents like Persil or the fore-mentioned Tide Heavy Duty?? I have not used microfiber-specific detergents, so hence, my question of those Autopians who have used both and can make an accurate and true comparison/evaluation.
There is also the subject of washing detailing task-specific use microfibers separately or together. I know some of you are very diligent about this and would NEVER wash compound/polish wipe-off microfibers with wax or detailing spray wipe-off microfibers. That might make sense for those of you have detailed several vehicles and hence, have a lot of microfibers to machine wash. For the hobbyist like myself, who detail ONE car and my only have a "few" microfibers to machine wash, it does not (at least to my other half who sees a small wash load as a waste of detergent, water and electricity). This is another reason why it may pay to have a lot of microfibers to detail with, accumulate them after a few details, THEN machine wash them by detailing task-specific microfiber as separate (but larger) loads. I just hate, though, having dirty microfibers sitting around between not-so-frequent hobbyist details.
My only "separate" washing of microfibers is washing of window cleaning microfibers by themselves by hand. I feel that dirty microfibers that have been used with wax wipe-off or those used with wheel cleaning will contaminate glass cleaning microfibers.
 
I haven’t felt compelled to buy detergent just for MFs since I get a decent clean from Tide so unless I’m convinced otherwise, I’m just going to continue to use Tide

I too wash glass MFs separately by hand.
 
I have used 3D Towel Kleen, Micro Restorer and various PBMG house brands. At the moment I have gone back to micro restore and it works just fine.

Guz. Does the 3D towel Kleen work well? I like most 3D products I have used but never that one yet. I have read some reviews where some say the towels aren’t overly soft when using it


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They all work the same in my experience. Towels feel softer with either of these compared to regular detergents.
 
Yes MF do feel softer than using a F&C by itself. Using 3D Kleen, griots MF&P cleaner and McKee’s all by themselves seem to work well.

I feel my towels feel softest and have been performing well when mixed. Can’t remember where exactly I heard it.... maybe griots MF washing video but MF detergent does better job of removing the waxes, polished and sealants and detergent works better on grease grime and dirt.

Haven’t tried the other brands with a F&C but if griots rwcommends on their towels.... good enough for me.


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I`ve used a couple different brands and they are all similar, IME. I`ve landed on the 3D product because of the price/availability. A gallon probably lasts 1.5 yrs. with my usage rate.

I never completely understood whether this soap is intended to be used at every wash or just periodically, every 4th wash, for example. I`ve been using it at every wash for the past couple of years and I notice with extended use that stains have slowly been removed and towels are generally improved in appearance.
 
This subject it one of the most striking cases of !YMMV! in Detailing!

For every person like Bill D who does fine with regular Laundry Detergent, you have another person (like Yours Truly) who finds the MF Detergents *infinitely* better. For every person who likes [INSERT bandname MF Detergent] or says "they`re all the same" there`s another person (again, like Yours Truly) with very different experiences.

IMO you simply need to find what works for *YOU* and then buy that as cheaply as possible.

Coatings=crack- Just FWIW, and hoping this doesn`t sound, uhm...snarky...I wouldn`t say "if [Vendor/Detailing Personality/etc.] says so it`s good enough for me!", especially regarding products they sell. And note that I`m a *huge* supporter of Griot`s Garage and Richard in particular...but they have a dog in that fight so, uhm... scientific skepticism.. is called for. Fine as a starting point if you want to try it, but be prepared for it to turn out either way.

My Short Answer for those willing to just spend $ would be to try MicroRestore and see if it works better than whatever you`re using now. That`s one brand that consistently works well for me on everything MF (and well on cotton too). Not as high-foaming as some others, rinses out well, and its cleaning has never disappointed me. Pricey though...
 
I might try a MF detergent the next tine I place a detailing order if it’s a really good buy. In the meantime I have a ton of Tide Heavy Duty to go through.
 
This subject it one of the most striking cases of !YMMV! in Detailing!

For every person like Bill D who does fine with regular Laundry Detergent, you have another person (like Yours Truly) who finds the MF Detergents *infinitely* better. For every person who likes [INSERT bandname MF Detergent] or says "they`re all the same" there`s another person (again, like Yours Truly) with very different experiences.

IMO you simply need to find what works for *YOU* and then buy that as cheaply as possible.

Coatings=crack- Just FWIW, and hoping this doesn`t sound, uhm...snarky...I wouldn`t say "if [Vendor/Detailing Personality/etc.] says so it`s good enough for me!", especially regarding products they sell. And note that I`m a *huge* supporter of Griot`s Garage and Richard in particular...but they have a dog in that fight so, uhm... scientific skepticism.. is called for. Fine as a starting point if you want to try it, but be prepared for it to turn out either way.

My Short Answer for those willing to just spend $ would be to try MicroRestore and see if it works better than whatever you`re using now. That`s one brand that consistently works well for me on everything MF (and well on cotton too). Not as high-foaming as some others, rinses out well, and its cleaning has never disappointed me. Pricey though...

Your Definitely right about blind following a retail business.

I would of rephrased as Griots has done a lot for me as a company to earn my trust. I did review and the logic of the two different soaps sounds sound to me.

Lastly they are the only company asking you to use less of their product each time. Cost per wash works out to be pretty cheap if not cheapest. Haven’t done the math.


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Coatings=crack- Ah, OK...and I commend you on your Critical Thinking :D

If you get a chance, post back about how the Griot`s:regular Detergent Mix works out for you, I`m gonna keep an open mind.

With my old agitator-style washer finally dead (eh, only lasted 28 years :( ) and the replacement not here yet , I`ve been washing everything in the household HE one...oh man am I *RINSING*!! Takes that thing forever to get all the suds out even with an extra Wash cycle with Vinegar as the "detergent". This PoorBoy`s Typhoon MF Detergent is too [darn] sudsy for me (maybe because of my soft water), not buying it again. Even the Persil for the Household MFs takes lots of cycles.

Eh, I knee-jerk against buying PB stuff anyhow (for admittedly silly reasons), sorta figures that the one product I did by from them would be unsatisfactory :o
 
Maybe you need to use less.


Ben - Melbourne/Australia

Now: ‘19 VW Golf R, ‘15 Polo GTI
Before: ‘06 RenaultSport Megane 225 Cup, ‘14 VW Polo GTI, ‘12 VW Golf GTI, ‘06 VW Golf GTI, ‘05 VW Golf Sportline, ‘01 Holden Astra SRi, ‘00 Nissan Pulsar SSS, ‘99 Holden Astra CD, ‘98 Nissan Pulsar SLX, ‘91 Nissan Pulsar GL with Q engine swap, ‘80 Subaru Leone
 
Speaking of detergents and using less of it, this IS a major reason why many HE front loading washers develop that stinky, musty smell. Most over-the-counter consumer brand laundry detergents use rendered animal fats as the base for their formula. This fat, though rendered, will still "go bad" if left to sit when combined with water in a wash tub, especially if too much of it is used during the wash cycle and the HE washer is infrequently used (say once a week rather than every other day or even daily). How to avoid it is:
1) Use a vegetable-based LIQUID laundry detergent
2) Use a powder laundry detergent with NO "fillers"designed for HE washers
3) Use less laundry detergent based on recommendations of the soap manufacturer (or as Accumulator "suggests" Read The (Frinkin`) Label (RTFL)
4) Use washer tub-specific cleaners periodically. If you KNEW how much gunk builds up on the outside of a washer tub from really dirty clothes, especially oily or greasy clothes, it would make you puke.
I think soap manufacturer Charlie`s Soaps (a forum favorite many years ago, and yes, they still exist) HIGHLY suggests washing a load of rags or throw-away towels when using their particular soap for the first time BEFORE washing ANY clothes, as their soap will "clean" so well that it will loosen this built-up gunk from the outside of the wash tub, which will get on the rags and towels that you want to throw away.

For a related thread on microfiber cleaning detergents and methods see:
https://www.autopia.org/forums/ever...ofibers-correctly.html?highlight=#post2163022
 
Maybe you need to use less...

I`m using the minimum that gets things clean, and it`s not much. We use a *tiny* dash of detergent for normal laundry loads and I use so little Typhoon that I have to mix it with water first and then use a small amount of that.

For us, the "recommended amount" is like some kind of joke, many, *many* times more than we`d ever use.

I figure it`s the soft water, although the same system with the same water source and the same detergents didn`t suds as much at our previous house.

With the Detailing MFs I`m used to the APC pre-spotting requiring extra rinses, but I`ve never used *anything* that sudses like this Typhoon. Well, except for trying Dawn in a washing machine, which did work for what I was doing but took forever to rinse out.

At least we`ve managed to avoid the "stinky washer", simply never been an issue with either the shop one (used very seldom these days) or the household one (used almost daily, averaging many loads/day). I sometimes think I oughta use one of those Washer Cleaning Products, but when we`ve had `em apart they never looked like they need it.

And like Bill D, I found the Charlie`s to be lousy, like some generic detergent from a dollar store.
 
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