Mernzerna polish recommendation

B

buja

New member
Hi all,



I have more or less decided to go for the mernzerna polishes.

As far as I understand, the polishes to go for are:



1) Polishing - Intensive Polish (PO91E) , and the Super Intensive Polish (PO85RD3.02)





2) Finishing - Nano Polish(PO106FF) , PO85RD Polish





The cars that i will be doing are mitsubishi and honda (family cars) , and I understand that they have very soft coats.



So should I be get the lesser strength polishes from the above 2 types of polishes ? (polishing and finishing)



I will also be getting lc ccs 5.5 grey white and orange pads.



not too sure how many pads to get at the moment, will be good to get your opinions and advice .



thanks@!
 
Depending on the condition of the paint, 106ff with a white or orange pad might suffice. With 106ff you won't even need to follow up wiht 85RD, you can leave it like that or do another pass with 1066ff, but with a gray pad. For severe swirls and scratches, I prefer IP for soft paint as I find SIP to be too grabby on soft paint. If you do IP or SIP, you will need 1066ff or 85RD with a white or gray pad as a follow up.
 
Sorry Buja, but I can't help you. I also have been wanting to try these polishes but am a bit confused. I will tell you that the SIP is made for the ceramiclears that are hard (ie Benz) so on soft clears I believe that you just need to go with IP.



When reading the description on these products they make them all sound like the same polish. If I am not mistakened, I believe the nano polish goes along with the SIP (made for the Benz and other hard clears.



So I think you might need the IP and Micro polish instead. But please, if I am completely wrong here will someone step in and correct me.



You haven't told us which polisher you will be using. IF it is a PC or UDM those pads are fine. It seems like many members are having trouble with the orange pad being too stiff now, but the only other pads I use are the Sonus. I would atleast get two of each pad though. Maybe even a third of the orange and white. I have heard that Menz polishes work best with a rotary and are hard to break down with a PC. With that said, many love the Menz polishes with their PC's.



One thing to think about though. If you are dealing with soft clear coats, just give the Sonus SFX line a look at. I use it on most of my soft clears that I do. SFX 1,2 and 3 pads and polishes. I think they are great for beginners or those that don't have much experience. IT is extremely difficult to screw something up with these products, and the results can be outstanding. Check out some of my click and brags. They were all done with the sonus line.



NOw with all of that said. I am very interrested in trying the Menz line to the point that I am going to order them this evening. I have been telling myself that now for the past three weeks, but tonight is the night.



Hope someone else can chime in.
 
oops forgot to say that I will be using a DA like something like the udm/pc.

what confused me was on autogeek's website the cutting power of both the ip and sip was listed as the same level.



as for finishing, it seems like the 106 has more cut than the 85.

which im not sure which one to get for the soft paint.



as the swirls on my soft paint are not in a severe condition, i am thinking of ip rather than sip , as sip might be too strong.



as for finishing, im still not too sure which one
 
buja said:
oops forgot to say that I will be using a DA like something like the udm/pc.

what confused me was on autogeek's website the cutting power of both the ip and sip was listed as the same level.



as for finishing, it seems like the 106 has more cut than the 85.

which im not sure which one to get for the soft paint.



as the swirls on my soft paint are not in a severe condition, i am thinking of ip rather than sip , as sip might be too strong.



as for finishing, im still not too sure which one
Click to expand...



SIP cuts faster than IP because it has a higher concentration of abrasives. If your paint is not in severe condition, then I would go with 106ff instead or you can even do Final Polish PO85U with a white or orange pad then follow with 85MC (Micro Polish). Even though 106ff is for resistant cc, it is not that strong so you should be fine. If you want to try something else, as someone else mentioned above, Sonus is a great line for soft cc's. In fact, on my Lexus which has ultra soft cc, I never use anything else but Sonus SFX 2 and 3 and they get they job done beautifully and safely. Also, since you are using a UDM/PC, I would recommend Sonus because Menzerna can be finicky especially with a UDM/PC.
 
Doc,



is number 3 a finishing polish ? From the grading of the "cutting" power, it seems very low.

so instead of using IP on your soft coat, you use sfx 2 , and sfx 3 in place of 106/85 for finishing right ?



what about the pads ? which ones do you use in place of the orange, white and grey pads ? i would think sfx 2 pads in place of orange and white, and sfx 3 pad for the grey (finishing) pad yeah ?





where else can we get sonus products ? I was actually thinking of going thru autogeek for all the products because they are having a good deal on their pads. seems like they don't carry sonus products...



what are the reasons that mernz sometimes act up ? is it because of high humidity and temps ? not so much of the style of machine ?
 
buja said:
Doc,



is number 3 a finishing polish ? From the grading of the "cutting" power, it seems very low.

so instead of using IP on your soft coat, you use sfx 2 , and sfx 3 in place of 106/85 for finishing right ?



what about the pads ? which ones do you use in place of the orange, white and grey pads ? i would think sfx 2 pads in place of orange and white, and sfx 3 pad for the grey (finishing) pad yeah ?





where else can we get sonus products ? I was actually thinking of going thru autogeek for all the products because they are having a good deal on their pads. seems like they don't carry sonus products...



what are the reasons that mernz sometimes act up ? is it because of high humidity and temps ? not so much of the style of machine ?
Click to expand...



SFX 3 is a finishing polish. I have never used Menzerna on my soft cc. I find that Sonus works well enough and safely. I have yet to find a polish that works better on soft cc's than Sonus SFX. They are less likely to marr the paint or leave a haze. I have however, used Menzerna IP and MC on soft cc's and though they work well, I can tell you that with the IP I definitely removed a lot of cc (though it was necessary due to the really poor state of the paint). I used IP on this car: http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-de...c-i-have-ever-seen.html?highlight=worst+civic As you can see, the paint was in really bad shape and it would have required too many passes with SFX 2 to fix it. Yes, if you are going to use the Sonus Pads, then that would be how to use them. With SFX I like to use the DAS Pads. I use SFX 2 with either the Orange DAS Pad (for heavier correction) or with the Green DAS Pad for mild to medium correction. SFX3 I use with the Blue DAS Pad. I believe you can only get Sonus Polishes here at autopia-carecare.com.

Menzerna Polishes act up a lot because they are very dependent on weather conditions. Also, they require some heat to break them down well, which is why they are more temperamental when applied via the UDM/PC. With the Flex though they work well because the Flex does generate some heat, though not nearly as much as a rotary.
 
buja said:
will high humidity be a factor in causing mernz to act up ?
Click to expand...



It seems like anything can cause the ceramiclear rated Menzernas to act up. There are a few things you can do to help, though...



Try doing an IPA wipedown of each panel you're going to polish right before you use the Menzerna on it.



If SIP is giving you fits, add a few drops of PO106FF to it. Also, make sure that the SIP is *completely* even on the panel you're polishing. Use some very slow rpm/orbit passes to make sure it is as even as possible on the panel, then increase the speed. Lastly, use your finger to make sure it's even on the pad, too.
 
buja I have used 106 on 2 hondas both black , its more than enough to removed any defects on soft

black honda paint if time is not a constraint. you need to follow up with a finishing polish/pad combo
 
The only thing to be concerned about with SIP and 106 is soft paints

The sharper abrasives can leave swirls behind and dry up on soft, sticky cleared jap cars
 
sorry for the minor thread jacking here. Lots of good advice. This was what I needed.



Has anyone found a difference between the IP and SIP on Mercedes ceramic finishes? Is one of them better for the ceramic finishes than the other? Reason I ask is the price differences between the two. Will be using them on a makita rotary.
 
detaildoc said:
Depending on the condition of the paint, 106ff with a white or orange pad might suffice. With 106ff you won't even need to follow up wiht 85RD, you can leave it like that or do another pass with 1066ff, but with a gray pad. For severe swirls and scratches, I prefer IP for soft paint as I find SIP to be too grabby on soft paint. If you do IP or SIP, you will need 1066ff or 85RD with a white or gray pad as a follow up.
Click to expand...





I'm not trying to question your technique or anything but wouldn't the Nano polish be your pre-LSP polish, rather than the PO85RD? It seems that in level of abrasiveness is as follows:



PO83 (PO85RD3.02)

PO85RD

PO106FF





Am I wrong with that?



Hrm, looks like the PO86RD is less abrasive than the PO106FF. Damn I'm more confused than ever.
 
SuperBee364 said:
P085RD is the least abrasive. You would want to use it *after* the Po106FF Nano polish.
Click to expand...



Yup. I found this out after the fact and edited the bottom of my post.



"Nano" sounds pretty pre-LSP to me... shrug
 
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