I could use some help. I have tried p21s wheel gel and meguiars wheel brightener at 4:1 with 1 minute dwell time with brush agitation and no luck. Before I was with my lady she didn't fully understand how to properly take care of her car. When I took over maintaining it I realized how bad the wheels were. I will try to get some pictures. What's the next step? Another product trial? Re-finishing? Just deal with it? Any help would be much appreciated it. The meguairs wb definitely helped the rest of the wheel just not the part where the brake dust has basically burnt onto the surface.
Meguiars Wheel Brightener - Failed against Lexus ISF brake dust
- Thread starter lrs97gst
- Start date
Ron Ketcham
Active member
The "build up" takes place over time.
You state that your "lady" did not understand the importance of regular removal of the deposits of the brake dust, etc.
Brakes create a lot of heat, and that "sets" or such the deposits.
They are "built up" in layers over time, each drive, each use of the brakes, adds another layer.
Treat the situation as taking a layer of clothing off, one layer at a time.
It may require several applications, dwell time, removal to remove "a layer" and then progress to remove the next layer, and on and on until you work have worked down through the layers.
Even the old hydrofluric acids, which will damage the coating on the wheels, can not normally remove the "layers' in a one shot of product.
Plus, don't be disappointed when once you get all the layers off, that the wheel is not perfect.
Acids and heat have been at play on the wheel coatings, and then you move on to the next correction steps.
Grumpy
You state that your "lady" did not understand the importance of regular removal of the deposits of the brake dust, etc.
Brakes create a lot of heat, and that "sets" or such the deposits.
They are "built up" in layers over time, each drive, each use of the brakes, adds another layer.
Treat the situation as taking a layer of clothing off, one layer at a time.
It may require several applications, dwell time, removal to remove "a layer" and then progress to remove the next layer, and on and on until you work have worked down through the layers.
Even the old hydrofluric acids, which will damage the coating on the wheels, can not normally remove the "layers' in a one shot of product.
Plus, don't be disappointed when once you get all the layers off, that the wheel is not perfect.
Acids and heat have been at play on the wheel coatings, and then you move on to the next correction steps.
Grumpy
Time 2 shine
New member
I have only used sonax FE and it is an awesome product. I removed some super nasty caked on brake dust off of some BMW wheels that took two applications and agitation with my wheel woolie and Daytona speed master wheel brush. Down fall is the product do not smell good at all. Depending on your situation the rims may be to far damaged.
tonipieleanu
New member
Sonax FE or Wolf's Decon Gel, both will se you well.
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
For really tough stains (i.e. sintered barke dust / road grime on the back of the wheels) use CarPro Iron X Paste and a white Scotch-Brite™ pad, allow the gel to dwell and then agitate with the pad, may require more than one application. Being a gel allows the product to remain in place and work for longer than a liquid cleaner
General purpose APC - dilute Optimum Power Clean™ up to 3:1 to safely clean, vinyl, paint, and plastics. Remove old dash dressings and tough residues from interior panels and wheel surfaces. Special polymers and emulsifiers break down contaminants with minimal agitation. Use caution when cleaning as the finish on some callipers use a powder coating (Brembo, etc) that can be stained by some wheel cleaners.
General purpose APC - dilute Optimum Power Clean™ up to 3:1 to safely clean, vinyl, paint, and plastics. Remove old dash dressings and tough residues from interior panels and wheel surfaces. Special polymers and emulsifiers break down contaminants with minimal agitation. Use caution when cleaning as the finish on some callipers use a powder coating (Brembo, etc) that can be stained by some wheel cleaners.
dschribs
Active member
Please, please, please let's not start using this ridiculous "fail" term on the forms here......
Dan
Well-known member
Sometimes it takes multiple hits of WB to do anything. Scotchbrite blue ("non scratch") pads help as well. I also up my dwell time on localized areas. They key is to never let WB dry.
Buffautodetail
New member
+1 for IronX paste.
I did an Audi S6 a while back and the wheels were beyond horrible. I used Sonax several times and it came to a point where it didn't take anything else off. I ended up using a clay bar on them which took the brake dust off. Given that peice of clay will never ever touch paint again.
Wheelzntoys
New member
Malco Brake Off wheel cleaner, good for alum. and alloy wheels.
911fanatic
New member
Megs WB at full strength is stronger than Sonax, Wolfs or IronX. If the wheels are that bad, it may be easier to remove them one at a time for cleaning. As Bryan said, spray on, allow to sit for around a minute, agitate and wash down with soapy water.
Do as others here said (I would have said Sonax Full Effect and Optimum Power Clean) then try a piece of clay bar once you have gotten as much off as possible. It may have etched into the wheels and coating to the point that it's in the pores and only clay will remove it or may not be removed at all. The advice of IronX paste and wool and is great idea as well before claying!