Meguiars Speed Glaze #80 and NXT on metallic silver

Scottwax

New member
Since I flew in to the Autopia/Meguiars meet, I didn't have a car to do. To make a long and beautiful story short and ugly, I had a contest on another board and a member named Eric (ERock) won and brought his car down to the meet for an exterior detail.



Very nice 350Z, pretty good shape too. It needed claying and had some minor cobwebbing.



Claying-



1099Erocks_car_claying.jpg




Mike Phillips showing proper PC use with Meguiars #80 Speed Glaze.



1099Erocks_car_mike_buffing.jpg




Eric practicing what he learned...although I ended up doing most of the buffing since we had so many cars lined up!



1099Erocks_car_erock_buffing.jpg




A few shots of the final results after buffing with #80 and waxing with NXT.



1099Erocks_car_finished2.jpg




1099Erocks_car_finished_rear.jpg




Here is the a good shot of the metallic paint. No muddying effect at all.



1099Erocks_car_metallic2.jpg
 
Noticed that Mike used the PC without the handle, and it looked like he was applying pressure to the top of the PC. Is that a recommended technique?
 
i'm starting to get curious about speed glaze. as the name states i guess it's a quickie all-in-one type product that preps a finish?
 
ben54 said:
Noticed that Mike used the PC without the handle, and it looked like he was applying pressure to the top of the PC. Is that a recommended technique?



No handle is good for beginners so you can apply more even pressure. Mike was pushing down to show how the PC bogs with too much pressure. Best polishing results are when you use slightly less pressure than it takes to bog down the PC motor...about 5 pounds or so.



BTW, Aurora40 (Bob) and I did most of the polishing and waxing on that car.
 
JCrawford said:
i'm starting to get curious about speed glaze. as the name states i guess it's a quickie all-in-one type product that preps a finish?



Actually, it seems very similar to #82 SFP but it breaks down more quickly. The 350Z was in really good shape to begin with with just minor cobwebbing so #80 with a polishing pad was aggressive enough. I don't believe #80 protects.
 
Great pics Scott, and notes:xyxthumbs



I am really bummed out because I was unable to make it out there to the event. Had a kidney stone:(



Perhaps next time;)



Anthony
 
Scott, I've been applying everything except DACP without any pressure to speak of. (Weight of the machine.) Should one use that "pre-bog" pressure of "5 lbs." on glazes and polishes? VM, #9, FP etc.? I'd appreciate clarification if you could. Thanks.
 
Marty, I have been using light pressure with glazes and my final polishing step. For applying waxes (did I mention I can still do that faster by hand? ;) ), I let the weight of the machine do the work.



If I am wrong, I am sure someone will chime in.
 
BTW, since this is Click and Brag, I am going to brag about Mike Phillips. He is really a great detailer and a terrific teacher. Very patient and he not only tells, but shows. This is a demo of #83 on red. You can clearly see the line that seperates the unpolished and polished side.



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Scottwax said:
No handle is good for beginners so you can apply more even pressure. Mike was pushing down to show how the PC bogs with too much pressure. Best polishing results are when you use slightly less pressure than it takes to bog down the PC motor...about 5 pounds or so.



BTW, Aurora40 (Bob) and I did most of the polishing and waxing on that car.



Good tip. I've been concentrating more on speed of the passes across the car. I should pay more attention to even pressure on the PC.
 
Scottwax said:
No handle is good for beginners so you can apply more even pressure. Mike was pushing down to show how the PC bogs with too much pressure. Best polishing results are when you use slightly less pressure than it takes to bog down the PC motor...about 5 pounds or so.



Scott, well said about technique for best results when using the PC. I found out about the right amount of even through trial and error. I also prefer to use the PC without the handle.



By the way good job on the Z.



Eric
 
Cars look great!



I am glad that people are staring to talk a little more about #80. For a while I thought that it might become the black sheep of the meguiars family. It is really a great product.



Scott, did you apply it to the entire car, then remove? Or section by section?



Also, I think that speed glaze does leave behind a (very) small amount of polymer protection. I believe that is why it is recommended for protection on new paint that is not fully cured
 
ebpcivicsi said:
Cars look great!



I am glad that people are staring to talk a little more about #80. For a while I thought that it might become the black sheep of the meguiars family. It is really a great product.




Seeing what 80 did for the Z car and a Mits 3000 that was there made me place my order. I expect it here this Friday!!:cool:
 
edschwab1 said:
Scott, well said about technique for best results when using the PC. I found out about the right amount of even through trial and error. I also prefer to use the PC without the handle.



By the way good job on the Z.



Eric



Eric-I had help on that car...Mike Phillips, Eric (ERock, the owner), Bob (Aurora40) and a few others joined in on the fun. I certainly cannot take full credit for how amazing the car turned out.



I agree the PC is easy to use sans handle on horizontal surfaces, but I prefer having the handle on when I do the vertical panels.
 
ebpcivicsi-we applied #80 one section at a time then removed. Really good product! The newest pro catalog does not mention #80 having any protective properties.
 
Great work!



I wish I could have come too but I had a meeting with a new potential client I couldn't reschedule.



I need to hire a salesman so I can do all this fun stuff
 
Scottwax said:
ebpcivicsi-we applied #80 one section at a time then removed. Really good product! The newest pro catalog does not mention #80 having any protective properties.



Glad you could finally use it. As mentioned before, one of my favorites.
 
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