Meguiars Hi-Tech Wax #26
- Thread starter vdubrick
- Start date
Hello .... I've used #26 many times in the past and it didn't leave any residue on trim. The best way I've found to apply it is to put it on over the entire vehicle, then come back and buff it off with no problem. I know that's worked for me best.
It's a very good wax.
Hope this helps out.
Take care.............V :wavey
It's a very good wax.
Hope this helps out.
Take care.............V :wavey
I apply it the same way vmunoz does, however, I've moved onto S100 these days. Although, you probably can just wipe on wipe off. Try it out on a 1/2 hood test. One side, the standard way and on the other side, the wipe on wipe off. For memory sake, I'd apply the standard way on the "right" side, that way, you won't forget which side you did what 
As for removing wax residue, I never really had a problem except on the textured plastic. The using peanut butter trick works very nicely!.
Paco
As for removing wax residue, I never really had a problem except on the textured plastic. The using peanut butter trick works very nicely!.
Paco
Glossequation
New member
Are there any adverse effects of not doing the entire vehicle before removing? Other than perhaps difficulty in removing because its not completely hazed over, will the wax not be as effective?
I'll usually do the hood and fenders and remove, then doors and quarters and remove, then decklid, roof, front and rear bumpers and remove. Works well.
I'll usually do the hood and fenders and remove, then doors and quarters and remove, then decklid, roof, front and rear bumpers and remove. Works well.
I second that.
Leaving the entire car waxed before starting to buff off leaves an incredibly hard job ahead of you.
I only needs to haze, not dry to a rock-hard finish!
I've learned to do a couple panels at a time, then go back and buff off; seems to leave the same, deep shine but uses a lot less elbow grease.
Love that deep, deep #26 shine!
Leaving the entire car waxed before starting to buff off leaves an incredibly hard job ahead of you.
I only needs to haze, not dry to a rock-hard finish!
I've learned to do a couple panels at a time, then go back and buff off; seems to leave the same, deep shine but uses a lot less elbow grease.
Love that deep, deep #26 shine!
I do not beleive it would reduce the effectiveness of the wax itself. (maybe others can comment on that too) Other than what you said about it being hard to remove. I remember trying to remove it immediately after applying and I was getting smears in spots where it went on kind of thick. I spoke to a Megs rep. once and he suggested trying it as I stated above. But also like paco said, it doesn't hurt to experiment and find a way that works best for you.
Take care..........V.
Take care..........V.
Really, there's no way of knowing without trying it and seeing what work's best for your finish.
There's really no golden rule as we are seeing here, some people have an easy time product X while other's find it dreadful. It's really a function of your vehichle, your experience, product and application. What may work for one individual may not work for another.
Have fun experimenting and don't forget to keep us updated!
There's really no golden rule as we are seeing here, some people have an easy time product X while other's find it dreadful. It's really a function of your vehichle, your experience, product and application. What may work for one individual may not work for another.
Have fun experimenting and don't forget to keep us updated!
Thanks for the great advices and feedback so far
The car is brand new and there's still the factory wax on it. It's looking good so far, but the time is coming to plan for further action.
On my old car (black metallic) I've been using Zaino and I was very impressed with the results. (a picture of my car can be seen on the Gallery page, in the most popular images section. It's the black BMW coupe)
But, now I'm wanting to experiment with waxes. In my part of the world, unfortunately I don't have access to Pinnacle and P21S waxes (I know, P21S is a german product, but the wax is not for sale here). I have also access to full range of Einszett products, but I've no experience with it.
Anyway, I'll go and try the Meguiar's first, if I'm not happy with the results, I'll try the Einszett.
Cheers
The car is brand new and there's still the factory wax on it. It's looking good so far, but the time is coming to plan for further action.
On my old car (black metallic) I've been using Zaino and I was very impressed with the results. (a picture of my car can be seen on the Gallery page, in the most popular images section. It's the black BMW coupe)
But, now I'm wanting to experiment with waxes. In my part of the world, unfortunately I don't have access to Pinnacle and P21S waxes (I know, P21S is a german product, but the wax is not for sale here). I have also access to full range of Einszett products, but I've no experience with it.
Anyway, I'll go and try the Meguiar's first, if I'm not happy with the results, I'll try the Einszett.
Cheers
No. 26 is still a top quality wax. If the wax on wax off works well, then I'd probably start using it again as I found it to be more durable than S100. However, that is without proper timed evidence. Also, it does provide a different look than S100. More deeping than the S100 reflective quality.
Mike_Phillips
Administrator
Tips for using #26
Thin coats, worked in well, remove with soft, terry cloth towels.
The benefits to terry cloth is that the nap, or little cotton loops help to slice into the continuous film of wax and disrupt it making it easier to remove the excess that is sitting on top of the surface.
#26 is what Meguiar's calls a "Pure" wax for finishes in excellent condition. It has no cleaning ability.
It is however a very clear wax.
After you apply a thin coating, if you look at it... you’ll notice it doesn’t dry white... in fact... it’s more or less a clear film, (that is a thin coating is).
It also, doesn't really dry which can make it hard to tell when to wipe it all off.
The instructions on the back of the label say,
"Allow product to dry to a haze"
Because it doesn't dry white, which is what most people think of when they think of a wax coating that has "hazed", this can make it difficult to tell when to wipe it off.
For the most part, all Meguiar's waxes can be wiped off after 15 minutes have passed and before 25 minutes. The usual test is the “Swipe Test� for complete cure. Take your clean finger and “Swipe� it across the layer of wax. If the surface is clear and free of wax, then it’s a pretty good indicator that the wax is ready to remove. If the surface is smeary and wax remains, then it is not ready to remove.
The only exception would be extremely cold, humid climates, which require more time for the product to dry/cure.
In all of my years of detailing cars I always apply all products to the entire car and then wipe off. Working section by section, or panel by panel would take to long on detailing work that I already spend to much time on. YMMV
I’ve never had any problem removing #26 from the entire car after applying and allowing it to cure for 20 minutes after I take my hand of the car. (That means I have went around the entire car and applied the wax, then removed my hand/wax pad from the car).
Then... take a little break... then, start removing where I applied the wax first and follow my path of application, (P.O.A.).
I always use clean, soft, 100% cotton towels with all of the edging removed.
If you have applied a thin coating, and are using terry cloth towels using what I call the "Creep" method, you shouldn't have any problems wiping off the #26 Hi-Tech Yellow wax to reveal a very deep, dark wet-look shine.
When #26 first came out, it was positioned as the only wax that would increase the D.O.I. of a previously polished surface.
I can remember putting on demonstrations all over the Northwest using both single stage and basecoat/clearcoat black paint panels showing this increase in D.O.I.
What Meguiar's meant by the above is this,
Generally speaking, most waxes will not make paint look darker or, increase the Distinction of Image (darkness and reflective characteristics), after the paint has been professionally cleaned with a Meguiar's paint cleaner, i.e. it's perfectly clean and smooth, free from all defects, then polished to a brilliant, high gloss shine using a Meguiar's pure polish like #3 or #7 or a cleaner/polish like #9, typically by machine, (rotary buffer), using Meguiar’s foam buffing pads.
#26 is a wax that will make the paint darker after the above process.
It has been reformulated over the years, and is still a very clear wax that will add a lot of depth and darkness to paint but in side by side comparisons, it will not make paint as dark as Gold Class wax.
Hope this helps…
Thin coats, worked in well, remove with soft, terry cloth towels.
The benefits to terry cloth is that the nap, or little cotton loops help to slice into the continuous film of wax and disrupt it making it easier to remove the excess that is sitting on top of the surface.
#26 is what Meguiar's calls a "Pure" wax for finishes in excellent condition. It has no cleaning ability.
It is however a very clear wax.
After you apply a thin coating, if you look at it... you’ll notice it doesn’t dry white... in fact... it’s more or less a clear film, (that is a thin coating is).
It also, doesn't really dry which can make it hard to tell when to wipe it all off.
The instructions on the back of the label say,
"Allow product to dry to a haze"
Because it doesn't dry white, which is what most people think of when they think of a wax coating that has "hazed", this can make it difficult to tell when to wipe it off.
For the most part, all Meguiar's waxes can be wiped off after 15 minutes have passed and before 25 minutes. The usual test is the “Swipe Test� for complete cure. Take your clean finger and “Swipe� it across the layer of wax. If the surface is clear and free of wax, then it’s a pretty good indicator that the wax is ready to remove. If the surface is smeary and wax remains, then it is not ready to remove.
The only exception would be extremely cold, humid climates, which require more time for the product to dry/cure.
In all of my years of detailing cars I always apply all products to the entire car and then wipe off. Working section by section, or panel by panel would take to long on detailing work that I already spend to much time on. YMMV
I’ve never had any problem removing #26 from the entire car after applying and allowing it to cure for 20 minutes after I take my hand of the car. (That means I have went around the entire car and applied the wax, then removed my hand/wax pad from the car).
Then... take a little break... then, start removing where I applied the wax first and follow my path of application, (P.O.A.).
I always use clean, soft, 100% cotton towels with all of the edging removed.
If you have applied a thin coating, and are using terry cloth towels using what I call the "Creep" method, you shouldn't have any problems wiping off the #26 Hi-Tech Yellow wax to reveal a very deep, dark wet-look shine.
When #26 first came out, it was positioned as the only wax that would increase the D.O.I. of a previously polished surface.
I can remember putting on demonstrations all over the Northwest using both single stage and basecoat/clearcoat black paint panels showing this increase in D.O.I.
What Meguiar's meant by the above is this,
Generally speaking, most waxes will not make paint look darker or, increase the Distinction of Image (darkness and reflective characteristics), after the paint has been professionally cleaned with a Meguiar's paint cleaner, i.e. it's perfectly clean and smooth, free from all defects, then polished to a brilliant, high gloss shine using a Meguiar's pure polish like #3 or #7 or a cleaner/polish like #9, typically by machine, (rotary buffer), using Meguiar’s foam buffing pads.
#26 is a wax that will make the paint darker after the above process.
It has been reformulated over the years, and is still a very clear wax that will add a lot of depth and darkness to paint but in side by side comparisons, it will not make paint as dark as Gold Class wax.
Hope this helps…
Mike_Phillips
Administrator
Hi Deckard,
The last wax I mentioned was the Meguiar's Gold Class Wax, part number G-7016, (for the liquid).
I have done a lot of comparison testing on both black single stage and clearcoat over black and I have only found one wax that will make the paint darker than Gold Class.
(I have at least $2500.00 worth of waxes in my office)
The Gold Class wax takes a big hit in the "Durability" category because it doesn’t bead water well.
It was never formulated to do this. It was formulated to "sheet" water off.
See the article on "The Perfect Drying Technique" by CarGuy in the Hall of Fame here,
http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5120
This is what this wax was formulated to do, sheet water instead of bead it up. For the people on this forum, water beading isn't a problem because they probably tend to dry their car off more than the average Joe Consumer.
For the type of people I call "Joe Consumer", if they don't dry the water off of their car, then their finish is prone to water spotting, which can etch quite deep into the paint. The more the water beads and then dries, the deeper the etch penetrates.
Therefore, a wax that beads water is a 'bad thing'.
There is a discussion on #20 Polymer Sealant that I'll be addressing today that plays into protection and water beading.
It's here,
http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25806&perpage=18&pagenumber=1
Mostly I’ll be addressing some misinformation.
If you want a wax that really beads water well, makes your paint really dark and cleans, polishes and protects in one easy step, A-12
I think a lot of people here don’t use it because it’s a Cleaner/Wax, but in side by side comparisons, it really works well and it only costs $5.00
(Water will actually “Bounce� off the surface when it hits)
Remember, Water Beading isn’t an Accurate Indicator of Protection but rather it’s a good indicator of High Surface Tension
I would say most people confuse the too.
Water beading is a good indicator that something is on the surface, (whether it’s truly “Protecting� the surface is questionable).
Of course, you also have to take into account new cars/new paint technology beads water right out of the paint booth without Any type of coating applied to it.
Also, exhaust/road film, (the oily type that comes out of your tail pipe), after it lands on your finish and builds up will bead water exceptionally well, but… it is also quite corrosive to the paint.
Even, table margarine will bead water, but it will not protect your finish from the elements and substance that the average car finish is exposed to day-in, day-out as a daily driver.
Something to think about.
Mike
The last wax I mentioned was the Meguiar's Gold Class Wax, part number G-7016, (for the liquid).
I have done a lot of comparison testing on both black single stage and clearcoat over black and I have only found one wax that will make the paint darker than Gold Class.
(I have at least $2500.00 worth of waxes in my office)
The Gold Class wax takes a big hit in the "Durability" category because it doesn’t bead water well.
It was never formulated to do this. It was formulated to "sheet" water off.
See the article on "The Perfect Drying Technique" by CarGuy in the Hall of Fame here,
http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5120
This is what this wax was formulated to do, sheet water instead of bead it up. For the people on this forum, water beading isn't a problem because they probably tend to dry their car off more than the average Joe Consumer.
For the type of people I call "Joe Consumer", if they don't dry the water off of their car, then their finish is prone to water spotting, which can etch quite deep into the paint. The more the water beads and then dries, the deeper the etch penetrates.
Therefore, a wax that beads water is a 'bad thing'.
There is a discussion on #20 Polymer Sealant that I'll be addressing today that plays into protection and water beading.
It's here,
http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25806&perpage=18&pagenumber=1
Mostly I’ll be addressing some misinformation.
If you want a wax that really beads water well, makes your paint really dark and cleans, polishes and protects in one easy step, A-12
I think a lot of people here don’t use it because it’s a Cleaner/Wax, but in side by side comparisons, it really works well and it only costs $5.00
(Water will actually “Bounce� off the surface when it hits)
Remember, Water Beading isn’t an Accurate Indicator of Protection but rather it’s a good indicator of High Surface Tension
I would say most people confuse the too.
Water beading is a good indicator that something is on the surface, (whether it’s truly “Protecting� the surface is questionable).
Of course, you also have to take into account new cars/new paint technology beads water right out of the paint booth without Any type of coating applied to it.
Also, exhaust/road film, (the oily type that comes out of your tail pipe), after it lands on your finish and builds up will bead water exceptionally well, but… it is also quite corrosive to the paint.
Even, table margarine will bead water, but it will not protect your finish from the elements and substance that the average car finish is exposed to day-in, day-out as a daily driver.
Something to think about.
Mike
Glossequation
New member
Mike,
Thanks for taking the time to give those thorough explanations. I have always and will always use Meguiar's products. The mirror glaze line is simply wonderful. That leads me to this question: How come #16 PPW is not sold like #26 is? I am just curious because I have the #16 and I love it, I just never see it in any stores...Is the chemical composition that different from #26?
thx,
Erik
Thanks for taking the time to give those thorough explanations. I have always and will always use Meguiar's products. The mirror glaze line is simply wonderful. That leads me to this question: How come #16 PPW is not sold like #26 is? I am just curious because I have the #16 and I love it, I just never see it in any stores...Is the chemical composition that different from #26?
thx,
Erik
Mike_Phillips
Administrator
Hi Deckard,
It has to come down to techniques
* Thin coats, not thick coats, (Thick coats just waste product and make removal hard, this includes Meguiar's products or anyones product).
* High Quality Terry Cloth towels. Like I said previously, it's all about the Loop man!
* Been doing it a long time. #26 is an easy product to work with, (for me), try #16 sometime and you'll understand what "Hard" is all about.
When to use MF and when to use Cotton?
Microfiber does a great job of removing oily films, wax, paint cleaners, compounds, polishes, cleaner/polishes glass cleaners, smudges, smears etc. It's softer than cotton to the finish and less likely to inflict scratches.
Microfiber tends to remove too well for something’s however. Take for example Meguiar’s New line of “Liquid, Synthetic Polymer Mold Release Sealer and Mold Release�, called the Velocity Mold Release Line.
(You want to talk about synthetic waxes using “Polymersâ€�… we got your polymers!)
I wrote all of the copy for this line and when I wrote it, the chemists were very adamant that microfiber polishing cloths ARE NOT USED to remove either the Sealer or the Release.
That is because they do too good of a job and the company/technician could possibly Stick a mold!
That’s because the microfibers tend to remove the sealer and the release from the mold surface where you're actually trying to build-up a microscopic layer to keep the “part� from sticking to the mold.
This could be a Boat or a Shower Stall.
If it’s a 50’ Yacht… Ouch! That’s gotta hurt.
Now apply this same thinking to waxing your car’s finish. If your goal is to make it look good, then use microfiber.
If your goal is to leave behind as much “Protection� as possible, then use cotton.
(I have huge article on wiping materials and techniques I’ll publish soon if anyone is interested).
When we here at Meguiar’s test and compare waxes… We always use clean soft, 100% cotton towels to remove all products, (or even with other testing chemicals and water).
It’s the only way to insure a fair test of the products.
(you can’t test something you just wiped off the surface using microfiber, it’s no longer there/present)
Hope this helps…
It has to come down to techniques
* Thin coats, not thick coats, (Thick coats just waste product and make removal hard, this includes Meguiar's products or anyones product).
* High Quality Terry Cloth towels. Like I said previously, it's all about the Loop man!
* Been doing it a long time. #26 is an easy product to work with, (for me), try #16 sometime and you'll understand what "Hard" is all about.
When to use MF and when to use Cotton?
Microfiber does a great job of removing oily films, wax, paint cleaners, compounds, polishes, cleaner/polishes glass cleaners, smudges, smears etc. It's softer than cotton to the finish and less likely to inflict scratches.
Microfiber tends to remove too well for something’s however. Take for example Meguiar’s New line of “Liquid, Synthetic Polymer Mold Release Sealer and Mold Release�, called the Velocity Mold Release Line.
(You want to talk about synthetic waxes using “Polymersâ€�… we got your polymers!)
I wrote all of the copy for this line and when I wrote it, the chemists were very adamant that microfiber polishing cloths ARE NOT USED to remove either the Sealer or the Release.
That is because they do too good of a job and the company/technician could possibly Stick a mold!
That’s because the microfibers tend to remove the sealer and the release from the mold surface where you're actually trying to build-up a microscopic layer to keep the “part� from sticking to the mold.
This could be a Boat or a Shower Stall.
If it’s a 50’ Yacht… Ouch! That’s gotta hurt.
Now apply this same thinking to waxing your car’s finish. If your goal is to make it look good, then use microfiber.
If your goal is to leave behind as much “Protection� as possible, then use cotton.
(I have huge article on wiping materials and techniques I’ll publish soon if anyone is interested).
When we here at Meguiar’s test and compare waxes… We always use clean soft, 100% cotton towels to remove all products, (or even with other testing chemicals and water).
It’s the only way to insure a fair test of the products.
(you can’t test something you just wiped off the surface using microfiber, it’s no longer there/present)
Hope this helps…
Mike_Phillips
Administrator
blackcaraddict said:
Hi Erik,
I would guess I have used #16 as much, or more than anyone.
It is what is called a... "Heavy Wax", or “High Molecular Weight� wax.
It creates "High Gloss" on finishes in excellent condition.
This wax is much different than the #26, it will not make paint dark and reflective like #26 first of all, or like the Gold Class will.
It does offer good "filling" characteristics and therefore... excellent gloss characteristics.
This wax came out in either 1950 or 1951 and unlike what "some" on this forum may say... Meguiar's updates their formula's often, in fact anytime paint technology changes or better chemistry/chemicals are created or become available.
You might want to try a side by side with either the #26 or Gold Class compared to the #16.
You may like the darkness these two waxes will produce over that of the #16.
As far as why the #16 isn’t sold like the #26 is because the #26 is more popular and much easier to work with.
If you leave the #16 on past 30 minutes or so, it will become very hard to remove. Most people don’t like this in a wax. It dries hard, and this helps to leave more wax behind on the surface thus increasing gloss.
Remember, gloss is the primary result of “how smooth the surface is�. The smoother you make your finish, the glossier it has the potential to become. Waxes with good filling characteristics help to increase gloss. In order to have good “fill characteristics�, the wax has to impart itself to the finish.
Yet another reason to use cotton over microfiber. Microfiber is gentler to the finish, (that’s a plus), but if your trying to leave as much product on the surface as possible, then cotton does a better job.
Hope this helps…
Glossequation
New member
Wow, thanks Mike! People like you give the tech support crew a good name!
I was tempted to buy #26, but felt some wierd loyalty to #16, probably because it was the first pure wax I ever bought and it smells like crayons and I like working with it!! But now I am going to try the #26 in a comparison... :up
thx again.
I was tempted to buy #26, but felt some wierd loyalty to #16, probably because it was the first pure wax I ever bought and it smells like crayons and I like working with it!! But now I am going to try the #26 in a comparison... :up
thx again.
Wow; talk about perfect timing.
A few minutes ago, I walked into a small auto body supply shop looking for the "Langka" chip repair. They didn't have it, but they did have a lot of Meguiar's products. "Yeah, too many numbers," said the guy behind the counter. I picked up a bottle of #20 and a can of #26, along with 4 PC pads (the contoured kind, from a company called "Edge") of varying density, for $60. I log on to find out about the Meg's stuff, and here is Meg's Guru Mike, with all the skinny!
Mike, my intent is to use the #20 and/or #26 over the winter, in place of my (reputedly not very durable) Pinnacle Souveran. Maybe #20 followed by #26, maybe one or the other alone. Do you have an opinion on that one? #20, #26, or both?
Mosca
A few minutes ago, I walked into a small auto body supply shop looking for the "Langka" chip repair. They didn't have it, but they did have a lot of Meguiar's products. "Yeah, too many numbers," said the guy behind the counter. I picked up a bottle of #20 and a can of #26, along with 4 PC pads (the contoured kind, from a company called "Edge") of varying density, for $60. I log on to find out about the Meg's stuff, and here is Meg's Guru Mike, with all the skinny!
Mike, my intent is to use the #20 and/or #26 over the winter, in place of my (reputedly not very durable) Pinnacle Souveran. Maybe #20 followed by #26, maybe one or the other alone. Do you have an opinion on that one? #20, #26, or both?
Mosca
Mike_Phillips
Administrator
Hi Mosca,
Yeah I have an opinion, that said, remember this is my opinion, not Meguiar's.
I would apply two thin coats of the #20, one right after the other, and let each coat dry/cure for at least 20 minutes before removing and remove using 100% cotton terry cloth toweling.
Then, wait at least 24 hours for the polymers to fully set-up then as long as the surface is still clean, apply the #26, a very thin coating and allow it to cure for 15 to 20 minutes and then remove with a new, clean, soft 100% cotton terry cloth towel.
Use the technique I outline for use with #7 in the Hall of Fame, for removing the #26.
http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23740
Like the #7, the #26 doesn't really dry like you would expect most waxes to and this can cause you to fight it needlessly.
(This is one of the reasons it is touted as a wax that doesn't dry white)
If you apply thin coats of both of these products they will both wipe off easily, especially the #20 which is known for how easy it wipes off.
The key is to "work them in well". The idea being to force the products into the microscopic imperfections on the surface so that you can leave behind the most product possible.
Applying two thin coats of #20 is so that you insure thorough and even distribution/adhesion of product.
Use a clean "foam" wax applicator for applying these two products and turn your applicator over often to insure that you have not picked up any abrasive particles that could potentially instill scratches.
Good luck, have fun...
Yeah I have an opinion, that said, remember this is my opinion, not Meguiar's.
I would apply two thin coats of the #20, one right after the other, and let each coat dry/cure for at least 20 minutes before removing and remove using 100% cotton terry cloth toweling.
Then, wait at least 24 hours for the polymers to fully set-up then as long as the surface is still clean, apply the #26, a very thin coating and allow it to cure for 15 to 20 minutes and then remove with a new, clean, soft 100% cotton terry cloth towel.
Use the technique I outline for use with #7 in the Hall of Fame, for removing the #26.
http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23740
Like the #7, the #26 doesn't really dry like you would expect most waxes to and this can cause you to fight it needlessly.
(This is one of the reasons it is touted as a wax that doesn't dry white)
If you apply thin coats of both of these products they will both wipe off easily, especially the #20 which is known for how easy it wipes off.
The key is to "work them in well". The idea being to force the products into the microscopic imperfections on the surface so that you can leave behind the most product possible.
Applying two thin coats of #20 is so that you insure thorough and even distribution/adhesion of product.
Use a clean "foam" wax applicator for applying these two products and turn your applicator over often to insure that you have not picked up any abrasive particles that could potentially instill scratches.
Good luck, have fun...
imported_indy
New member
I have gotten realy good results using Meg's Gold Class
Clear Coat wax (liquid) as my first sealer/protection coat, then
applying several coats of #26 on top of that. I've done this
on my red truck as well as my wifes black car and like the
way it deepens/darkens the color with each additonal coat of
#26. I've always only let the #26 set for maybe a minute before
buffing it off, but will try the longer time suggested by Mike and
see how it works out.
Note to Mike: Thank you for being willing to offer such detailed
help.:xyxthumbs
Clear Coat wax (liquid) as my first sealer/protection coat, then
applying several coats of #26 on top of that. I've done this
on my red truck as well as my wifes black car and like the
way it deepens/darkens the color with each additonal coat of
#26. I've always only let the #26 set for maybe a minute before
buffing it off, but will try the longer time suggested by Mike and
see how it works out.
Note to Mike: Thank you for being willing to offer such detailed
help.:xyxthumbs