Meguiars DACP & Blackfire

mrdetailer

New member
Before I got on this site, I followed a recommendation from a friend and used a brush to wash the cars. This summer small scratches from the brush appeared in the clearcoat of my Subaru. Horrors. They had left a haze and scratches that were much less than the perfection I want.



I read the following link from CMA,



http://properautocare.com/refshinkit.html



where Blackfire was used on top of a glaze, but I knew that I had to use a more agressive product to wipe out the scratches. I went out and purchased Meguiar's Dual Action Cleaner Polish from my auto paint supply store on the recommendation of the manager who really knew her stuff. When tried on a different vehicle, Meguiars Fine Cut Cleaner, which recommended using rotary buffers only left scratches that required a swirl remover afterwards. Unsatisfactory results with an orbital. I had some trepidation because Meguiars listed this as a fairly agressive cleaner. Here is their relative scale 1 -- 10



Swirl Remover 2.0 3

Fine Cut Cleaner 5

DACP 6



To say I was anxious about using this product initially was an understatement. I bordered on panic. Then I read the label. Here are some of the descriptions.



For use with a rotary or orbital buffer (yeah!).

Removes light to medium oxidation, stains, swirls and blemishes.

Combines the perfect amount of abrasive cleaner and pure rich polish to provide a deep gloss shine.

Safe BUFFERED cleaning gets out defects without marring the finish.

Paintable (no silicones).

Safe for Clear Coats.



Based on that I figured that it was a medium oxididation and scratch remover, similar to the 3M Cleaner Wax Medium Oxidation Remover that I had so successfully used to remove water spot etching my red Mazda. But that product wasn't durable. So, I sucked it up and got out the Orbital.



The finish was still mirror smooth so I didn't need to use clay.



I had to work in the dusk last Thursday because a storm was predicted and the evening was warm. I applied it like a glaze by running the buffer over a small area until most of the product was removed. It was fast and removed efficiently, leaving very little residue. When I wiped off the DACP it did something I'd never encountered before, it squeaked. I would have washed again to remove excess dust, before putting on the Blackfire, but since darkness was fast approaching I quickly put on a coat of the Gloss Enahancing Polish and Paint protector with the buffer. I was amazed at the small amounts needed on this prepared finish.



By the time I got done it was too dark to get a sun reflection, so I drove it to our local grocery store with super bright flourescent lights. To my surprize, not only did the car have great Blackfire depth, but it had a brilliant finish, and the brush stroke scratches were almost gone. Looks the same in full sun. Better than the P21S I used this summer. And I didn't think that could be beaten for pure reflective shine.



I can't imagine what it will look like when in a couple of weeks (after another coat or two of paint protector) I put on a topcoat of P21S, since CMA recommends a carnauba topper for the ultimate Blackfire shine.



Quite honestly I'm concerned about using the DACP again. Will this be too strong? When should I use it. A quart will go a long ways.
 
I agree about being scared to use the DACP. I was set to buy it until I looked at the bottle back and aggressive scale! I settled on the SMR 2.0. Didn't get the results I wanted the first time, but at least I didn't "Create" more work!
 
Even though I'm judging by hand use, I've come to think of SMR as being pretty mild (even when worked in hard by hand). So I got some DACP for faster results on those flaws that SMR can't touch or would take forever to polish out. After hearing how quickly DACP breaks down to a finer polish I'm less intimidated by its cut rating. I haven't used it yet, but already have a couple candidate cars lined up once my PC comes in. :)



But I agree with BlackRegal that they should be used as little as possible. Knock down all the imperfections once with DACP and hopefully you'll never need to use it on the same car again.
 
BlackRegal said:
Use DACP, or any moderately agressive polish as infrequently as possible. Once you've removed most of the defects with DACP, you should be able to switch to a milder polish like Swirl Free or #9 as a "maintenance" product, which you would be safe to use several(2-3) times a year Think about it this way... with what you know now, you'll be causing fewer swirls in the future, which will negate the necessity for a strong polish like DACP. I know its been said a thousand times before on this forum, but I'll say it again... always use the least aggressive product first... then go more agressive as the situation dictates.



Agreed. I love DACP, but it is a product I normally only have to use once on a car, provided the customer calls me out regularly. Since DACP has buffered abrasives that break down quickly (but to properly break them down, you need to work it until it is nearly clear and dry), it is safer to use than Fine Cut #2. I always follow DACP with either Swirl Free or Hand Polish to add more finishing oils and an even smoother surface.



mrdetailer-yes, DACP squeaks. I was showing a fellow Autopian today in Dallas how to use DACP by hand to remove swirls and scratches, and even though it started to lightly rain, it was squeaking.
 
Scottwax said:
Agreed. I love DACP, but it is a product I normally only have to use once on a car, provided the customer calls me out regularly. Since DACP has buffered abrasives that break down quickly (but to properly break them down, you need to work it until it is nearly clear and dry), it is safer to use than Fine Cut #2. I always follow DACP with either Swirl Free or Hand Polish to add more finishing oils and an even smoother surface.



I also thought it was safer to use than Fine Cut Cleaner. After using DACP and seeing the results, I threw the fine cut cleaner away. It seems to do well on scratches, oxidation and water spots.



I also wondered about using a glaze after DACP. I'll bet that gets even better results. Thanks.
 
A product like Fine Cut has its uses but if you're using DACP and are just detailing a couple cars here and there, Fine Cut is kinda overkill. What Fine Cut *doesn't* do is break down as fast as DACP. Sometimes you need a product to hold it's aggressiveness until you get the results you need. When using a rotary DACP buffers too quickly which forces the detailer to use more speed or more product than needed. So Fine Cut is actually a better product for that specific use.



Geekysteve and I detailed my Saab last week and we used DACP with a PC and a yellow pad. It did not remove acid rain etching (neither did FI2 for that matter) but it did do a wonderful job of light polishing which my car needed. We followed up with P21S GECP which is a spectacular light polish. The paint was as perfect as can be and was ready for any wax or sealant (we used Zaino).



I imagine if we had a rotary we could have taken out those acid rain spots with the FI2 or DACP. A PC just isn't gonna do that job. I think Fine Cut and a rotary would make quick work of acid rain spots.
 
mrdetailer said:
I also thought it was safer to use than Fine Cut Cleaner. After using DACP and seeing the results, I threw the fine cut cleaner away. It seems to do well on scratches, oxidation and water spots.



I also wondered about using a glaze after DACP. I'll bet that gets even better results. Thanks.



I just got my newest Meguiars Professional Product catalogue and the description of Fine Cut now includes buffered abrasives. DACP has more polishing oils though.



BretFraz-you may want to try Power Compound the next time you come across acid rain etching, but in all honesty, even that or Diamond Cut may not be enough since acid rain etching can go right through the clear coat and into the base coat.
 
bretfraz said:
What Fine Cut *doesn't* do is break down as fast as DACP. Sometimes you need a product to hold it's aggressiveness until you get the results you need. Geekysteve and I detailed my Saab last week and we used DACP with a PC and a yellow pad. It did not remove acid rain etching but it did do a wonderful job of light polishing which my car needed. . . .



Thanks for your good information. I haven't actually tried DACP for waterspots since 3M Cleaner Wax Medium Oxidation Remover had taken them all away from my hood. As I had mentioned in a long post that got blitzed with the site crash, the waterspots were etched in since I purchased the red Mazda 2 years ago. This was the only product that took them out and could be used by hand or the orbital. The wax of course doesn't last, but that doesn't matter to me.



I'm quite excited by both of these products. Within their proper scope they work well.
 
I recently purchased some DACP and a PC. I was planning to use them very soon and was wondering about what to use afterwards. I have been using 3M IHG and S100 but was planning to use the BF combo after the DACP. If I use the BF would there be any reason to use any sort of product with filler oils? Wouldn't the BF remove such a product and doesn't BF have some filler oils as well?
 
for the ultimate look.





In speaking about Using the Gloss Enhancing Polish he says, "sing Gloss Polish over Machine Glaze creates a synergy where the sum of both polishes is greater than either polish alone. "



http://properautocare.com/refshinkit.html



This is one reason why I feel Blackfire is a versitile wax. I really liked the look with just DACP, but it probably looks better with a glaze as well.
 
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