Meguiars #80 vs Poorboys SSR 2.5

T

trueblueblood

New member
Alright I wanted to get some Meguiars Speed Glaze cause I heard its a great one stepper has good swirl/cleaning characteristics but you don't need to step down to a finer polish with darker colors. Now I like Poorboy products and was going to place an order with an etailer that carries SMR 2.5. Which one would you reccomend. I'm looking for something a step down from DACP and more of a one stepper where I can go to glaze then LSP. Am I in the right field let me know, which is my better choice?



Thanks :xyxthumbs ;)
 
SSR 2.5 is about equal to #83, so I would have to say go with #80 if you are looking for a step down. I would still pick up some SSR 2.5 though, if you are ever forced to work in the sun, this is killer. You can also go straight to your LSP after 2.5 without the need for an additional polishing step.
 
True blue blood,



I too am looking for a similar answer. I was told that #80 is closer to SSR2? A recent chart shows it falls between SSR1 & SSR2. I think #80 might have some filling properties? If it has fillers, not sure if thatâ€â„¢s good or bad? I do know that SSR's and #80 is sure popular with Autopians.





Check out this link for the chart:



http://dano.pocketrubbish.com/detai...roductchart.htm
 
Meguiars #80 has fillers and Poorboy's SSR2.5 doesn't have fillers. Poorboy's SSR2.5 with a polishing pad will leave your surface ready to wax. Might want to hit up the sample exchange and see if you can get both to compare. I know #80 and SSR2.5 are quite popular so i'm sure you'll find someone to trade with.
 
#80 is more likely to finish down well enough to go straight to an LSP on more paints (especially softer ones) than SSR2.5 but it isn't as aggressive nor is it particularly sun friendly.



I have both products. SSR2.5 for harder paints and working in the sun, #80 for softer paints or those needing a less aggressive polish than 2.5.
 
I've had bad luck with #80 by hand (PITA to remove), so I would never buy/use this product again. I have some pads now and will get a PC sometime in the future, then I will be using the SSRs and 1Z stuff for polishing.
 
The paint I'm dealing with is an 03 Mustang in True blue. Is Ford paint considered hard or soft?



My prep will always end with VM usually will that be enough for any hazing by SSR 2.5 and any chance you would need to step down a polish with #80?



Thanks for the replies
 
Ford paint is decently hard. Both #80 and SSR2.5 will finish down nicely enough that VM will be able to take care of any light marring.
 
Now thats service Scottwax, thanks alot that helps hey your on Texas time isn't it past your bedtime, need to put that detail arm on ice and drink a cold one:xyxthumbs



Any tips on using #80 or SSR as far as how long to work it etc..?



Also will Vm be a light enough polish to reduce hazing/marring from a heavier polish or will SSR1 fill this bill better?



Thanks again



Later



Zach
 
Work #80 until is has gone translucent. Haven't got any experience of the SSRs yet so can't help you there. As regards VM, it should be able to cope with the marring left behind by a heavier polish, but you may want to add SSR1 to your arsenal just in case. (Somebody's now going to chime in and tell be that VM and SSR1 are equivalent in abrasiveness!).



Ben.
 
true blue blood said:
The paint I'm dealing with is an 03 Mustang in True blue. Is Ford paint considered hard or soft?



My prep will always end with VM usually will that be enough for any hazing by SSR 2.5 and any chance you would need to step down a polish with #80?



Thanks for the replies
Click to expand...



I have the exact car and color, a convertible. Like Scott said its decently hard. Swirls can be a little PITA to get out. I find #80 doesn't do a whole lot for moderate swirls on my ford paint. I go with 2.5 and lately I have been playing w/ Menzerna IP. I've never followed 2.5 w/ VM so no help there.
 
Zach-work both products until they begin to clear. I use moderate speed passes (6" or so per second) with the PC on 5 to spread the product then crank it up to 6 and slow down to an inch or so per second to break down the abrasives. A couple of passes this way should clear out both #80 and SSR2.5.



And yes, both products break down well enough that either VM is enough or you can go straight to your LSP.
 
Scottwax said:
Zach-work both products until they begin to clear. I use moderate speed passes (6" or so per second) with the PC on 5 to spread the product then crank it up to 6 and slow down to an inch or so per second to break down the abrasives. A couple of passes this way should clear out both #80 and SSR2.5.



And yes, both products break down well enough that either VM is enough or you can go straight to your LSP.
Click to expand...



BINGO! :bow



Excellent way to put it Scott. Perfect technique for almost all polishes.



I would add: light pressure in the beginning for a few seconds, then moderate pressure (sometimes requires heavy) for a short time, then no pressure; just the weight of the buffer.



With experience you'll get to know your polish and how much pressure to use and when to apply it along with what speed.



Many novices with the PC (myself included a couple years ago) would move the buffer too fast and not allow the abrasives to break down and then burnish the surface. You're left with micromarring and hazing. It's very frustrating!



There's a certain finesse to it but it isn't rocket science :p Like with everything in life - practice makes perfect.
 
Scott,

Great info. Thank you very much for a finite number for medium speed and slow speed in moving the PC. That will be VERY helpful the next time I use it. Though I didn't measure my speed or anything last time, I figure I was moving the PC along too rapidly, as Spilchy said. This will give me a target to work with, and I'll bet the results will be better. Thanks!



Russ
 
M83 DACP, followed by M80 Speed Glaze, no wax yet.



2OverAfter80.jpg
 
true blue blood said:
The paint I'm dealing with is an 03 Mustang in True blue. Is Ford paint considered hard or soft?



My prep will always end with VM usually will that be enough for any hazing by SSR 2.5 and any chance you would need to step down a polish with #80?



Thanks for the replies
Click to expand...



I'm using the exact same combination and have had excellent results. I use DACP where I need a more aggressive product. I've been topping with EX P, EX P+ or UPP. I'm also doing some experimenting with Clearkotes RMG in place of VM and so far have liked what I have seen. This is on a 94 Mustang GT convertible that's a 24/7 outside car.:)
 
Thanks for all the replies I am now on the right track. You guys rock:2thumbs: ! Nice shot Mike



I've been off the detailing wagon for alittle while and need some reassurance:o as I'm alittle rusty



And glad to see some fellow Stang owners
 
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