Marring after wetsand and buff?

T

T. Perinne

New member
I need to go over this one more time since I'm still worried... I went to my paint shop to see the last few parts that have been wet sanded and buffed. It looks like beautiful work.... but... at certain angles I could see a few places where there where swipe marks that I believe may have been left from buffing. It could even be from the pieces being wiped down since the clearcoat is so soft and new. Nothing major but I'm not sure what product to use to get them out without further marring the finish. I want to make it as perfect as possible so I can apply Klasse Twins after everything has cured. The Klasse should last a long time on this garage kept black car so I don't want any marring left under the sealent. Thanks!
 
Depending on the paint and the marring, I'd first try 3M PI-III MG (05937) and if that wasn't aggressive enough I'd try PI-III RC (05933). Maybe use Menzerna FP to finish up. I've done this on some similar fresh-paint imperfections on a number of cars and it always worked well.



Another approach would be Meg's #80, but I'd use the 3M stuff.



Try to be gentle and let the product do the work since the fresh paint might still be a little soft/delicate.
 
Can I use the PI-III MG by hand? I spent all my money on the paint job, products (no abbrasive polishes yet), and rest of the car so no PC yet.



Also, any info on Imperial MG? Since I can get 3M locally (Menzerna FP would need to be ordered) I always wondered if Imperial MG was just a lighter version of PI-III MG... as in no fillers or oils (thinking ahead for AIO).
 
Can't help you regarding the Imperial, don't know about it.



Yeah, you can use the MG by hand, no problem.



I use the MG before AIO on all the cars I Klasse :xyxthumbs
 
The MG will have quite a bit more cut than the SSR1, but not, IMO too much. I dunno if the SSR1 would be aggressive *enough* so yeah, get the MG and see how it works. Remember to apply some fresh-paint-safe product like 3M IHG or Meg's #3/#5/#7/#81 to give a little protection while the paint is curing.
 
Good points... at first I was undecided becuase SSR1 had less chance to mar the new finish itself but might not get the swipe marks out completely... and of course MG would get everything out but might leave something behind on the new clear coat.



I will go with MG based on your recomendation of it def being body shop safe.



I also like the MG since the paint shop used all 3M products and I have 3M IHG for the 30 day cure time... this keeps me all in the 3M family and in their order of aggressiveness instead of mixing and matching.



Thanks!



PS One last question: would I MG the whole car to have a consistent finish or just the problem areas?
 
T. Perinne said:
..would I MG the whole car to have a consistent finish or just the problem areas?
Click to expand...



I'd do the whole car, though the MG is so fine it might not do much consistency-of-finish-wise.
 
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