M105 trial today

Envious Eric

New member
ok, what is the trick with this stuff? I just tried it with a PC and a orange pad and it worked for about 2 full passes...then with a rotary and a yellow megs polishing pad, once pass and it was dried up with minimal correction done...megs 83/megs yellow/1200 worked better for me...same size section, used a touch more 83 than 105, both yellow pad, same speed...



any tips...with an orange and PC, it worked amazingly...
 
The 5.5inch orange pads and M105 is a pretty good combo.



A few users have experienced how it dries really quick with a rotary. Not enough lubricant/oils and too much abrasives. Humidity is a problem and M105 can start dusting really fast. Some have mixed in a bit of optimum polish to increase the working time, but it will also reduce the cutting power slightly. Though if you want longer working M105 then you may as well buy M86, slightly less cut but longer working time just like adding optimum polish.



With the orange pad annd M105 surely that provided enough correction? That should be able to remove heavy swirling on most paints.
 
i was trying to use a rotary....it was just a two step detail on a truck that was going to a show on sunday...trying to bring out max gloss, not necessarily correction, but I wanted to do a good amount of correction at the same time...



Ill have a write up and a C&B sometime tomorrow or late tonight...
 
Picking up a pretty thick line from the paint with the rotary is key. If you apply to the pad, it'll dry too fast.



I love the stuff and I'm going to try to get a M105 tutorial up in a week - it's got a helluva learning curve.
 
themightytimmah said:
Picking up a pretty thick line from the paint with the rotary is key. If you apply to the pad, it'll dry too fast.



I love the stuff and I'm going to try to get a M105 tutorial up in a week - it's got a helluva learning curve.



Man, that would be great! I've been putting off using the M105 sample I have because I'm just not comfortable jumping into the stuff without more information on how to use it correctly. There's so much conflicting info both here and the "other" detailing forums, I'm completely lost. Being completely lost isn't a good place to be when using a compound with this much cutting power. I'm usually game to jump in and try the latest pads/polishes immediately (I just can't help myself), but I have to admit, this stuff has me nervous.



I was going to try it for the first time yesterday, so I started researching it here and a few other places. Some said work it for less time, others said longer, some said cut it with another polish, other people said not to. I got so confused I put it back on the shelf.



Really looking forward to your tutorial.
 
themightytimmah said:
Picking up a pretty thick line from the paint with the rotary is key. If you apply to the pad, it'll dry too fast.



I love the stuff and I'm going to try to get a M105 tutorial up in a week - it's got a helluva learning curve.



Would be nice to see what your video will be like! I still haven't found the time to use my M105 (school's almost over!) but will definitely enjoy learning the M105 curve once I do get that opportunity.
 
I think the key to using 105 is to only use it for 20-30 seconds max at around 1500 rpms. If you need to do another pass then put down another line and hit it again.



When I used it longer than this it would gum up and be a B**** to remove. I know that Megs says 105 is specifically designed for the rotary and not the DA.



themighttytimmah...I love forward to your tutorial. It will be a huge help.
 
Pats300zx said:
I think the key to using 105 is to only use it for 20-30 seconds max at around 1500 rpms. If you need to do another pass then put down another line and hit it again.



When I used it longer than this it would gum up and be a B**** to remove. I know that Megs says 105 is specifically designed for the rotary and not the DA.



themighttytimmah...I love forward to your tutorial. It will be a huge help.



That does seem to be the general consensus for using this stuff. I think I'll give it a shot this way.



The thing that really threw me for a loop was watching the Meguiars demo video of M105. The guy worked it for *nine seconds*. He got out 1500 grit wet sanding marks in that nine seconds, too. He used a very large strip of polish and a huge 8 inch wool pad.
 
SuperBee364 said:
That does seem to be the general consensus for using this stuff. I think I'll give it a shot this way.



The thing that really threw me for a loop was watching the Meguiars demo video of M105. The guy worked it for *nine seconds*. He got out 1500 grit wet sanding marks in that nine seconds, too. He used a very large strip of polish and a huge 8 inch wool pad.



I spent some time with the Meg's rep in my area - we took out 1000 grit unigrit marks in 16 seconds from buffer off to buffer off, with a 8" Solo wool pad. Picking up the line right is absolutely key to the use of this product - I couldn't get it to work the way I wanted to until I worked on my pickup skills.



With only 20 seconds at most to work it well, you can't waste any time getting the polish on the pad. You also need to pick it up at 1500rpm, M105 doesn't work with the traditional zenith point technique.



The amount of polish used was definitely a switch from Menzerna. 6" line for a 2x2 area. Looks like I'll have good enough weather to get a quick demo up on Tuesday.
 
themightytimmah said:
I spent some time with the Meg's rep in my area - we took out 1000 grit unigrit marks in 16 seconds from buffer off to buffer off, with a 8" Solo wool pad. Picking up the line right is absolutely key to the use of this product - I couldn't get it to work the way I wanted to until I worked on my pickup skills.



With only 20 seconds at most to work it well, you can't waste any time getting the polish on the pad. You also need to pick it up at 1500rpm, M105 doesn't work with the traditional zenith point technique.



The amount of polish used was definitely a switch from Menzerna. 6" line for a 2x2 area. Looks like I'll have good enough weather to get a quick demo up on Tuesday.



Subscribed and printed. :up
 
I put a 6" line around the middle of the pad, work it 30-40 seconds at 1000 rpms. Bumping up the speed doesn't seem to make it cut faster, but it definitely dries out faster.



Mixing in some Optimum Compound will greatly extend the work time with a minor reduction in cut...but given the longer work time, it becomes a wash.
 
Scottwax said:
Mixing in some Optimum Compound will greatly extend the work time with a minor reduction in cut...but given the longer work time, it becomes a wash.





At what ration do you mix the OC.. are you using the OHC or OC..and wool or foam?



Thanks
 
i used it today on a HAMMERED Navigator...it got the highly oxidized, swirled, scratched up paint to about 90% in one pass with a PC/105/5.5" lc orange....I was amazed...short working time...had I followed up with 83 then poliseal, I would have had even better results...but going straight to poliseal was just fine...
 
toyotaguy said:
i used it today on a HAMMERED Navigator...it got the highly oxidized, swirled, scratched up paint to about 90% in one pass with a PC/105/5.5" lc orange....I was amazed...short working time...had I followed up with 83 then poliseal, I would have had even better results...but going straight to poliseal was just fine...



Glad to hear that! I'm trying out the same combination (PC/105/5.5LC orange) next week on a seriously neglected '00 Sebring. I'll be following mine up with UF/Blue. Thanks for the update.
 
On on my second 32oz container of M105 and would have to agree with the guys here. Pick up a small amount (1-2" line) off the car's surface at about lower speeds and spread it out, then 1500 rpm for about 3 passes(20 secs) and you are done! I have tried it with wool, purple foam wool(use very little M105 or you will be changing pads often-I have lots on the go, so no biggie) and I love it with the white LC pads.

On my personal cars, the paint on two black cars would haze with most stronger polishes. When I use M105 on a white pad with them, I get a great one step that finishes very well with little or no haze. I just have to use a wax with polish to make sure there is no remaining haze. I have used this process on a few one steps in the last few weeks. Use M105 on white, followed by Poli Seal on white and the results were great. I follow up the Poli seal by misting Optimum Car Wax for more protection. (When using wool or purple wool, I have been following M105 with Optimum Polish on white, then LSP)
 
toyotaguy said:
i used it today on a HAMMERED Navigator...it got the highly oxidized, swirled, scratched up paint to about 90% in one pass with a PC/105/5.5" lc orange....I was amazed...short working time...had I followed up with 83 then poliseal, I would have had even better results...but going straight to poliseal was just fine...





One more thing...how much 105 were you applying each time? Were you applying it directly to the pad, or to the surface? What speed were you using on your PC? Thanks again...
 
I got a chance to use 105 again last night on a very hard clear. This time I used an orange CCS pad rather than wool, I really worked on my pick up skills, and keeping the RPMs near 1500 the entire time. The results were very good. I liked it much more than with wool on this clear. With wool if I go over my "time" with 105 I induce marring, not the case this time with the orange CCS.
 
hey everyone,



I know most people here are either professional details or very knowledgable weekend warriors. So I am going to make a brief statement about using 105 with a pc. I hope everyone that is calling it a polish realizes that it is indeed a compound with greater cut that diamond cut 2.0 and is a rotary only product by Meguiar's recommendations. Those getting good results with 105 and a pc I applaud your determination to use a compound with the pc and to get the results that you are getting.



Andrew
 
I don't know how you guys are using orange pads on a rotary unless you are working with a wet pad. Everytime I've tried the orange pad on a rotary it skips and jumps. I find the german green or yellow LC pads work better for me. (non 105-I haven't used it)
 
wannafbody said:
I don't know how you guys are using orange pads on a rotary unless you are working with a wet pad. Everytime I've tried the orange pad on a rotary it skips and jumps. I find the german green or yellow LC pads work better for me. (non 105-I haven't used it)



Same here. Hopping, jumping and marring. Wool is a lot better.



With #105, I rarely have to go above a yellow Meguiars 8006 foam pad anyway.
 
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