Looking for Definitive Answer about #82/#9

A

Accumulator

Well-known member
There seem to be two schools of thought regarding these Meguiar's products :confused: One says to keep the edge of the pad wet, and to NOT work it until dry, but rather remove it while it's still a little wet, lest you induce micromarring. The other school says to work it until it IS dry, and almost gone. I'm NOT trying to start some :argue here, I just want to hear from people with more experience with these products than I have. If rotary/hand/PC use makes a difference, I'd like to hear about THAT, too.
 
The thing you have to remember is that you are asking for a definitive answer regarding technique. There is no definitive answer for that. Different strokes for different folks. I'd tell you that nobody can really effectively use a swirl remover by hand, but I've seen Scottwax's work. I think the definitive answer is on the product label. The rest of it is just personal technique. All you are going to get here are a dozen opinions of what works best for them. If everybody agrees on the same method then that would just about be a first for Autopia. :lol Its usually 6s when it comes to agreeing on a process around here. Too much needs to be factored in and I really don't think there is a concrete correct method to many of the products we use. Lots of ways to skin a cat on Autopia.
 
I can only say I did both DACP and #9 on two cars last month, worked both till dry and almost no residue. I had no micromarring whatsoever. I have had trouble wiping off wet products in the past , this time the hardest part was the dust on the adjacent panel. I will continue to work till dry.



Keep in mind my cars are white........ Used a PC on speed 6 with a yellow Megs pad for dacp, went to a tan pad for #9
 
Jngrbrdman- LOL, yeah, I sorta stuck my foot in it there..OK, I know what you mean...guess I shoulda known better than to say "definitive" :o But I still want to hear as many opinions (heh heh, make that "*PERSONAL OPINIONS*") as I can from experienced users of these products.



I didn't see it as a matter of technique in the sense of personal preference...but rather (erroneously?) as a more cut-and-dried either/or. Like asking if you oughta double-clutch or not with a non-synchro transmission ;)



If it turns out that BOTH methods work fine then that'll be a good answer/consensus in my book!



Oh, I only brought this up because every time someone says "the #82/#9 left things WORSE", an experienced user seems to say "don't work it dry".
 
Work it until it is nearly clear and dry, especially with DACP, since it starts off more aggressively. I've always gotten the best results, both in appearance (shine and depth) and flawless surface (no marring) by working DACP and SFP until nearly clear and dry.
 
ScottWax- That's the sort of "..I've always gotten the best results.." response I was looking for. I knew that about the DACP, was/am unsure about the #82/#9. Hey, I don't even USE those products myself! Just wanted to know.
 
Hey,



I am one that believes in keeping a wet edge. I have found that I prefer to keep that product (#82) damp during application and removal. Now, I am using a rotary for this procedure and perhaps that is the difference. But when using the rotary, keeping a wet edge means working the product while it is wet/damp. If the area has not been buffed enough, add more #82 and continue buffing. Unlike #83 DACP that has Diminishing Abrasives that need to be broken down and hence, buffed to a point where only a light dust/residue remains, #82 Swirl Free Polish does not. I have found that buffing dry #82 with a rotary, the added heat/friction plus dried product on the pad, can cause marring.



Tim
 
Tim-good tip using a rotary, but by hand or a PC won't generate the heat that a rotary will and #82 works best for me if I work it until almost dry (not completely dry, but almost dry).
 
Hi Scott,



That is why I mentioned the rotary. Using a product with a rotary changes many factors. The rotary makes even a mildly aggressive product more aggressive. Hence why I suggest keeping a wet edge.



As for PC or hand use, I have not used #82 by hand; but, your awesome results speak for themselves!! :up



Cheers Buddy!



Tim
 
I used Swirl Free yesterday with a Vector rotary buffer and buffed a 1993 Mercedes finish to a beautiful shine. I buffed the polish until it was completely gone at a speed of about 700 0r 800. The dial was set between 1 and 2. With the Vector 1 equals 500 and 2 equals 1000, it is a little different than the Dewalt.



I wish to add that this car had not been polished for years. It had heavy oxidation and swirls.
 

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I sounds like the application method has a lot to do with how long your should work these products...glad to hear the different responses :xyxthumbs
 
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