Looking for a more aggressive clay...

K

kaval

New member
Currently I am using the Riccardo Clay that eShine sells, but I need something more aggressive for those heavily contaminated cars. Spending up to 7 hours claying is not good business practice (among other things, like sore hands, lol) so I am seeking the advice of others for recommendations on more aggressive clay bars that I can use.



Thanks in advance!



Kaval
 
If you're spending more than 2 hours claying a vehicle, you should switch to a decontamination kit like ABC or a 4000 grit sandpaper. 4000 grit marring is about equal to Red Clay Magic but makes the finish much nicer. Unless you're doing an overspray job, it shouldn't take that long to prep your surface for polishing.
 
Most of the cars I've been doing lately are either silver or white, hardly maintained....extremely neglected. I'm going back to finish a pearl white TSX today and I'll try and make the click & brag as soon as I can. Looks like it rained rust spots on the car.
 
Even the most heavily embedded and contaminated vehicle only takes about a hour to correct with an ABC wash. You should really look into it. It literally melts the particles away. That's what it was created for and pretty mush every OEM car manufacturer has Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) recommending it.
 
I can't figure out why you're spending so much time claying. I correct vehicles that have been exposed to the same conditions, and with the same clay. I spend 30 mins claying, maybe more for a deeply contaminated vehicle.
 
Yeah, a thorough claying can take a while.



The strongest clay I use is the current version of Sonus gray, which instills a fair bit of marring even when used gently on hard clear.



David Fermani had the right answer, a decontamination system :xyxthumbs



I clay while the acidic "B" step is dwelling, but note that doing that will result in going through a *lot* of clay as the "B" messes with it in a big way. It's still an effective combination though.
 
I would have love to used the ABC kit when we used to own a WHITE Chrysler Concorde. The car was covered in rust specks from a neglected brake system. Claying the car took hours and only removed 75% of the contamination.



Now we own a Grand Caravan and she has the same rust specks that OTC clay can not remove. I was hoping to find the Meg's red clay locally, no luck.
 
Thanks for all of your replies! I'm going to look into the M-32 Kit, as it looks to be what I need. Seems reasonably priced too!



Here is a picture of the car. This portion pretty much represents what the entire vehicle looked like.



IMG_1546 resized.jpg
 
The entire car was like that? I've seen that, but it's rare. Usually that sort of contamination is right behind the front wheel (which it seems to be in that pic), then there is usually some moderate contamination on the lower doors, behind the rear wheel and the truck. Normally with Riccardo I can get it done in about 2 hours. I have fk1's 883 and it cuts down on that by half. It's cheap too, like $30 a gallon.
 
kaval said:
Thanks for all of your replies! I'm going to look into the M-32 Kit, as it looks to be what I need. Seems reasonably priced too!



Here is a picture of the car...
Click to expand...



Yikes, that *is* pretty bad :eek:



I'd definitely do the clay-with-acid step, and I'd probably do it more than once (just remember to rinse/neutralize the acid each time, don't just keep adding more). Note that *IME* you can let the acid dwell longer than it says on the label, they're erring on the side of caution...that's not to say you can't overdo it, but *IMO* you can push the envelope a little.
 
Picus said:
The entire car was like that? I've seen that, but it's rare. Usually that sort of contamination is right behind the front wheel (which it seems to be in that pic), then there is usually some moderate contamination on the lower doors, behind the rear wheel and the truck. Normally with Riccardo I can get it done in about 2 hours. I have fk1's 883 and it cuts down on that by half. It's cheap too, like $30 a gallon.
Click to expand...



More or less the entire car was like that. That particular shot is of the passenger side, rear bumper near the wheel; typical area, but the rust specs around the rest of the car were smaller in diameter. This car was from a referral from a white 1991 Acura Integra, which also had severe contamination, and lives close to this client. Not as bad as the TSX, but bad enough. Heck, there was even rust specs behind the side-view mirrors that I had to clay out. I wonder if the area has something to do with this, but judging by the condition of the car, my money is on neglect.

Where did you get the 883 from?



Accumulator said:
Yikes, that *is* pretty bad :eek:



I'd definitely do the clay-with-acid step, and I'd probably do it more than once (just remember to rinse/neutralize the acid each time, don't just keep adding more). Note that *IME* you can let the acid dwell longer than it says on the label, they're erring on the side of caution...that's not to say you can't overdo it, but *IMO* you can push the envelope a little.
Click to expand...



So the clay-with-acid step is basically substituting the clay lube for the acid-mixture? Sounds scary! LOL



Thanks for the information about pushing the envelope. I will give that a shot if I pick up the M-32 kit.



Again, thanks to everyone for your replies! :D
 
Holden_C04 said:
How about vinegar? Could that replace the decontamination kit? It's acidic.
Click to expand...



It's acidic, but not nearly strong enough to "burn out" the rusted ferrous contamination. IMO the "B" acid in the AutoInt decon. systems isn't all that strong either, but it's a *whole lot* stronger than vinegar. Not "burn your skin off" strong, but still...
 
Vinegar won't do much unless it's light waterspotting. +1 on the ABC Decon Kit, don't be scared of the acid since it's been proven on tens of thousands of vehicles to properly decontaminate the fall out.
 
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