Every kind of aluminum cleaning spray is meant to be sprayed on and rinsed off, mainly because it`s for aluminum wheels. However, I don`t want to do any rinsing. In my engine bay I have aluminum parts that are bare aluminum, as well as anodized. For example, my intake pipe is bare aluminum, and I`d like a product to lightly polish and wipe away grime without the black mess associated with normal polishing and buffing. This is just for maintenance to prevent oxidation. For my anodized parts, I`m not sure what`s safe. I`m about to sent some parts out to be re-anodized after the finish was damaged by Meguiar`s Super Degreaser. I don`t want to go through that again. Any suggestions would be appreciated, thank you!
Looking for 2 different kinds of aluminum cleaner in engine bay
- Thread starter jwyfk
- Start date
Sorry, you are asking for the chemically and physically impossible about cleaning and polishing aluminum.
Optimum`s Power Clean is a good degreaser/cleaner that will not harm aluminum, as is P21S Total Auto Wash.
Polishing bare aluminum can best be done with Mother`s Billet Polish. I have used Optimum`s Metal Polish because it leaves some protective polymers behind, but with ANY metal polish, you WILL get that black, dirty residue from aluminum. I find using chamois-like microfiber or soft cotton flannel for metal polishing to work well. Another polish with some protection is White Diamond Metal Polish, but I think it was designed for aluminum tread plate or diamond plate, like that used to make truck bed tool boxes or non-slip step plates on fire engines.
The main problem with anything in an engine compartment is accessibility to part surfaces that need to be cleaned/polished. Short of removing them from the engine, Top of the Line detailing supply makes a metal polishing kit designed for motorcycle wheels that has a variety of felt polishing bobs in various shapes designed to fit a cordless drill or better yet, a Dremil tool. Anyway, polishing aluminum requires a physical application of chemical compound via a pad material and muscle force (AKA, elbow grease).
Optimum`s Power Clean is a good degreaser/cleaner that will not harm aluminum, as is P21S Total Auto Wash.
Polishing bare aluminum can best be done with Mother`s Billet Polish. I have used Optimum`s Metal Polish because it leaves some protective polymers behind, but with ANY metal polish, you WILL get that black, dirty residue from aluminum. I find using chamois-like microfiber or soft cotton flannel for metal polishing to work well. Another polish with some protection is White Diamond Metal Polish, but I think it was designed for aluminum tread plate or diamond plate, like that used to make truck bed tool boxes or non-slip step plates on fire engines.
The main problem with anything in an engine compartment is accessibility to part surfaces that need to be cleaned/polished. Short of removing them from the engine, Top of the Line detailing supply makes a metal polishing kit designed for motorcycle wheels that has a variety of felt polishing bobs in various shapes designed to fit a cordless drill or better yet, a Dremil tool. Anyway, polishing aluminum requires a physical application of chemical compound via a pad material and muscle force (AKA, elbow grease).
512detail
New member
poorboys HD metal and chrome polish
sonax or sonus (I forget) makes a spray aluminum polish (rub it in) but it says it needs a final follow up
2 cents put in
sonax or sonus (I forget) makes a spray aluminum polish (rub it in) but it says it needs a final follow up
2 cents put in
CrispyGP2001
New member
Flitz Aluminum Pre Clean might be what you need. I used it to prep my polished alloy wheels. They were dull and somewhat etched with road salt in the winter. Spray on cool parts and let dwell couple minutes. You will have to rinse with water, but not necessarily a hose (I used a sprayer on some engine parts). No black residue (that is Aluminum Oxide=Aluminum Rust). Nice clean non marred surface. Most if not all murkyness gone. Now to put a buffed shine on it you have to "buff".
Accumulator
Well-known member
Be careful with anodizing, it`s usually pretty fragile. Even the "mil-spec" stuff (come to think of it, I`ve never actually seen anybody reference the actual Military Specification...wonder if it`s just a fantasy). No way I`d ever use anything abrasive on anodizing unless I was willing to accept it being buffed off (leaving bare aluminum).
Some acidic products can work well on bare aluminum, but...YMMV is an understatement and maybe, uhm..."don`t try this at home, kids!" applies.
And +1 on the Optimum Power Clean and/or P21S Total Auto Wash (I`ve come to prefer the former).
Once something *is* cleaned up/refinished/nice, I`d give thought to brushing on a really tough clearcoat like KBS Coatings` Diamond Finish (works fine for me via brush). Even if you miss some tight spots, it`ll make future cleanups just so much easier.
Hey, doesn`t somebody make a "metal polishing soap" product...maybe P21S? I`ve never used it but I`ve read about it here and thought how it could be good for some jobs like this.
Some acidic products can work well on bare aluminum, but...YMMV is an understatement and maybe, uhm..."don`t try this at home, kids!" applies.
And +1 on the Optimum Power Clean and/or P21S Total Auto Wash (I`ve come to prefer the former).
Once something *is* cleaned up/refinished/nice, I`d give thought to brushing on a really tough clearcoat like KBS Coatings` Diamond Finish (works fine for me via brush). Even if you miss some tight spots, it`ll make future cleanups just so much easier.
Hey, doesn`t somebody make a "metal polishing soap" product...maybe P21S? I`ve never used it but I`ve read about it here and thought how it could be good for some jobs like this.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Thanks for mentioning that one! I`m not a big fan of their blue polish in the tube (my father *loved* that stuff for some reason), and I probably would`ve overlooked their Pre Clean had you not posted about it.
Wow, I checked this thread for a couple of days and no one responded and now everyone responded! Thank you for the great suggestions, I appreciate it. When I polish, I wet sand in multiple stages, then finish it off with Mother`s Billet Polish. I used to use their original polish, but the Billet Polish is even finer.
I didn`t check this thread last night, so I decided to try a product I used to use on my mountain bike called Dri Wash `n Guard Classic Waterless Car Wash. I sprayed a little bit on a terry cloth sponge and wiped down my bare aluminum intake. It must have some mild polishing ingredients in it, because the sponge turned slightly black. After buffing it out, it had removed all the oxidation and polished the aluminum slightly. There was no heavy labor involved and it wasn`t messy at all. It leaves behind a "protective glaze," for paint, so hopefully it will do the same for the aluminum.
As for the anodized parts, I don`t know what to do in the future. I don`t want to go through the hassle of sending in parts to be anodized all over again. I`m going to ask the anodizer what can be used to clean the parts without ruining the surface.
I didn`t check this thread last night, so I decided to try a product I used to use on my mountain bike called Dri Wash `n Guard Classic Waterless Car Wash. I sprayed a little bit on a terry cloth sponge and wiped down my bare aluminum intake. It must have some mild polishing ingredients in it, because the sponge turned slightly black. After buffing it out, it had removed all the oxidation and polished the aluminum slightly. There was no heavy labor involved and it wasn`t messy at all. It leaves behind a "protective glaze," for paint, so hopefully it will do the same for the aluminum.
As for the anodized parts, I don`t know what to do in the future. I don`t want to go through the hassle of sending in parts to be anodized all over again. I`m going to ask the anodizer what can be used to clean the parts without ruining the surface.
Accumulator
Well-known member
jwyfk- Glad you`re making good progress. I`d top that Dri Wash&Guard with some kind of wax/sealant to bolster the protection.
If you get a chance, post back about what the Anodizing Shop says about safe maintenance.
If you get a chance, post back about what the Anodizing Shop says about safe maintenance.
Thanks, I was thinking the same thing and started searching last night. I heard about Zoop years ago, but they went out of business. There`s a product called ShineSeal, which is similar.
I`ll let you know what that anodizer (if that`s what you call them) says.
Accumulator
Well-known member
jwyfk- Ah, OK...
I was figuring you`d just use some coating (like what people use on wheels/paint) or a durable LSP.
If I were gonna do something like the old ZoopSeal (I`ve used that and another similar product that Eastwood used to sell called something like Nylack), I`d just clearcoat the parts with KBS Coatings` Diamond Finish or Eastwood`s Patina Preserver (think that`s the name...it`s whatever they call the clear version of their Rust Encapsulator). That`s the approach I`m using for such bits these days when I really care about keeping them nice (recently did a set of new Steering Shafts for the Crown Vic, turned out GREAT). Brushes on easily and then flows out incredibly well with minimal brush marks if any, at least for me. Can`t say enough about how great the Diamond Finish has been for me, but I guess YMMV always applies. Still...that`s what I`d do. It`s what I *am* gradually doing as I procede with my projects.
I was figuring you`d just use some coating (like what people use on wheels/paint) or a durable LSP.
If I were gonna do something like the old ZoopSeal (I`ve used that and another similar product that Eastwood used to sell called something like Nylack), I`d just clearcoat the parts with KBS Coatings` Diamond Finish or Eastwood`s Patina Preserver (think that`s the name...it`s whatever they call the clear version of their Rust Encapsulator). That`s the approach I`m using for such bits these days when I really care about keeping them nice (recently did a set of new Steering Shafts for the Crown Vic, turned out GREAT). Brushes on easily and then flows out incredibly well with minimal brush marks if any, at least for me. Can`t say enough about how great the Diamond Finish has been for me, but I guess YMMV always applies. Still...that`s what I`d do. It`s what I *am* gradually doing as I procede with my projects.
I Googled LSP, but you`re not talking about "layered service provider" or "Lumpy Space Princess" are you? I assume the "P" is for polymer. I`m not sure what I`m going to do, I was just researching. Wax doesn`t last long enough, so maybe something like Klasse Sealant Glaze? I`ll look into the clear coats, though. Thank you.
Accumulator
Well-known member
jwyfk- Sorry, my bad...didn`t mean to be inscrutable 
LSP = Last Step Product, i.e., wax/sealant....like the KSG, which would be good IMO (but layer it). I do prefer FK1000P as it seems to work/last/etc. at least as well with fewer coats, but yeah you`re on the right track now. That`s a lot easier than clearing those bits, so I`d see if that works before getting into a Big Project.
LSP = Last Step Product, i.e., wax/sealant....like the KSG, which would be good IMO (but layer it). I do prefer FK1000P as it seems to work/last/etc. at least as well with fewer coats, but yeah you`re on the right track now. That`s a lot easier than clearing those bits, so I`d see if that works before getting into a Big Project.
jwyfk- Sorry, my bad...didn`t mean to be inscrutable
LSP = Last Step Product, i.e., wax/sealant....like the KSG, which would be good IMO (but layer it). I do prefer FK1000P as it seems to work/last/etc. at least as well with fewer coats, but yeah you`re on the right track now. That`s a lot easier than clearing those bits, so I`d see if that works before getting into a Big Project.
Don`t worry about it, I`m horrible with these acronyms. Thanks again for all the help. I`ll post back when I talk to the anodizing shop.