Long Throw Polisher Technique?????

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pwaug

New member
When members complain about Rupes polishers not being effective the response from many is you've got to "develop your technique" with some practice. What exactly is the technique recommended for long throw polishers as opposed to a standard throw polisher like the Griot's 8mm????
 
I started very basic when I first got a PC. But soon after I began to follow and work on the KBM method for polishing. When I got a flex 3401 and it direct drive I could lean into it to get cut. But with my Rupes15 I found I needed to go the other way as far as pressure. I actually try and lighten the downforce letting the machine throw and rotation do the majority of the work. At times I almost feel like I am trying to float the polisher on the paint instead or pushing it down.
 
With my Rupes 21 I've found that light pressure is all you really need. Don't use just the weight of the machine, but give it a little downward pressure. Nowhere near how much you would need with the 6" DAs on the market
 
Would like to know more about this subject too...I'd like to purchase a GG, but I'd like to know more about it first.
 
Alright guys, the vid will be posted next sat. I'm SLAMMED this week including tomorrow but I will get a nice edited quick version for you guys. I'm using the Rupes 21 and the 15 for reference. I do not have any real short throw machines besides the LHR75E, I may try an throw that in the mix as well.
 
In my opinion your "technique" can change from car to car depending on how easy or hard the finish is to correct
Less pressure may be fine on softer paints but long throw machines may require added pressure on harder paints (or clears)

It may also change dependant on the chemicals/pads you're using as well
Remember to keep your work area small if looking for optimum correction level
 
impressions said:
In my opinion your "technique" can change from car to car depending on how easy or hard the finish is to correct
Less pressure may be fine on softer paints but long throw machines may require added pressure on harder paints (or clears)

It may also change dependant on the chemicals/pads you're using as well
Remember to keep your work area small if looking for optimum correction level
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Spot on. This last car I did (BMW) had super hard paint. I was compounding away with FG400 on my Rupes 21es with light pressure and wasn't getting anywhere. So I changed my technique by applying a little bit of pressure, which slowed my pad rotation down drastically, and slowed down my arm speed then I started to see correction.
 
I got to use the new Kamikaze replacement backing plate at the Esoteric open house this weekend. Kai (the guy behind Kaminkaze) was there and demo'd it for me. It changed the way you can use your long throw polisher. Super stable @ speed 6 even 1 handed. (He made me use it 1 handed just to see how stable it was.) Kai explained that in Japan they use high speed to work quickly and this new backing plate help to make it work. I didn't buy on yet but it was interesting. Talk about changing how you use the polisher.
 
TroyScherer said:
I got to use the new Kamikaze replacement backing plate at the Esoteric open house this weekend. Kai (the guy behind Kaminkaze) was there and demo'd it for me. It changed the way you can use your long throw polisher. Super stable @ speed 6 even 1 handed. (He made me use it 1 handed just to see how stable it was.) Kai explained that in Japan they use high speed to work quickly and this new backing plate help to make it work. I didn't buy on yet but it was interesting. Talk about changing how you use the polisher.
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Correct me if I'm wrong Troy, it doesn't use a foam interface, it's solid aluminum with hook/loop right on the aluminum?
 
TroyScherer said:
I got to use the new Kamikaze replacement backing plate at the Esoteric open house this weekend. Kai (the guy behind Kaminkaze) was there and demo'd it for me. It changed the way you can use your long throw polisher. Super stable @ speed 6 even 1 handed. (He made me use it 1 handed just to see how stable it was.) Kai explained that in Japan they use high speed to work quickly and this new backing plate help to make it work. I didn't buy on yet but it was interesting. Talk about changing how you use the polisher.
Click to expand...

Just checked those out. Man, you are going to break me. The little 3" one for the Duetto looks very promising, but not a lot of room for error.
 
impressions said:
Correct me if I'm wrong Troy, it doesn't use a foam interface, it's solid aluminum with hook/loop right on the aluminum?
Click to expand...

Yes. It is a full aluminum plate setup with no foam interface.

Honestly the full aluminum thing made me nervous at first but after using it I can see how it isn't an issue on large flat and open areas. When trying to get in tight space where you could bump something I would switch back to stock. It is make to clear the shroud with no need tot he washer mod. That is something I like as it mean more screw thread to hold. the more I think about it the lack of foam interface is kinda like the reason we like and use thin foam pads. Less flex and movement of the pad means more cut in theory.
 
TroyScherer said:
Yes. It is a full aluminum plate setup with no foam interface.

Honestly the full aluminum thing made me nervous at first but after using it I can see how it isn't an issue on large flat and open areas. When trying to get in tight space where you could bump something I would switch back to stock. It is make to clear the shroud with no need tot he washer mod. That is something I like as it mean more screw thread to hold. the more I think about it the lack of foam interface is kinda like the reason we like and use thin foam pads. Less flex and movement of the pad means more cut in theory.
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The BP's are interesting. I have to wonder how they handle the heat???
 
RaskyR1 said:
The BP's are interesting. I have to wonder how they handle the heat???
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I wondered that as well. I didn't get to do enough to generate a lot of heat. They way Kai explained it to me is that they work in quick burst running at high speed to get quick correction. So I am not sure how much heat would be generated.

I also have noted that Rupes has said these are "not approved" modification to their tool. But I don't see how this is any different than changing a backing plate on a PC or even using the "washer mod" that many people are using on the Rupes already.
 
TroyScherer said:
I wondered that as well. I didn't get to do enough to generate a lot of heat. They way Kai explained it to me is that they work in quick burst running at high speed to get quick correction. So I am not sure how much heat would be generated.

I also have noted that Rupes has said these are "not approved" modification to their tool. But I don't see how this is any different than changing a backing plate on a PC or even using the "washer mod" that many people are using on the Rupes already.
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LOL. I saw Rupes commenting on that too and I would agree.

It was also mentioned the J hook Velcro they use is known for generating higher heat temps. I would love to get one and do some testing to see what effect they have with heat, if any.
 
So regarding the original question it looks like there are two trains of thought--One,using just the weight of the machine and two, applying pressure as needed based on the condition/hardness of the paint. Naturally a test spot is needed, but those who recommend pressure are we talking as much as one might use on a conventional 8mm throw DA like the Griot's? Or are we talking something less than that?
 
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