Little DA buffer?

[bennylava]

Hi all. I have the GG6 but I was looking at doing some smaller spots and I`m not sure its the right tool for the job. Those areas where a 6" pad is just way too big. Like the lower parts of a front bumper cover on some of these newer sedans. You aren`t going to want to use a 6" pad on that. You`d want a 3", and in some places I`d speculate that you may even have an easier time with a 2" pad. If they even make those.

So thinking along those lines, you also have to wonder if the buffer itself would need to be smaller. The GG6 might be a little too big for a 3" or 2" pad. Or is it? I have seen small DA buffers out there for sale, but maybe someone here can tell me if its actually common practice to use them, on those smaller areas that call for a much smaller pad.

And if so, what is a good small DA buffer, that won`t break the bank? The best bang for the buck.

 

[ShaneB]

I have a 3" backing plate on my PC for using 3" pads to apply sealants. Just get a smaller backing plate.

Backing Plates

 

[Stokdgs]

Yes, get a 4" and a 3" backing plate and then some 4" and 3" pads, and you should be good..
I guess if you want to just get 1 smaller backing plate, and pads, then the smaller 3" would also be my pick..
Dan F

 

[Accumulator]

I too use 3" and 4" pads with my GG6, no problems at all.

There *are* the Rupes mini and that new Nano.....

 

[bennylava]

I like the nano. But dang their tools are expensive. Nice to have the perfect tool for the job.

Does anyone here actually use a smaller buffer? Or do you all mainly just stick to one size? I`m always asking what yall do cause I want to just emulate the pros. Best recipe for success at my stage.

 

[Accumulator]

bennylava- I have a little 3" pneumatic polisher (from Griot`s) that I use for spot correction with 3" pads. If buying today, I`d still want something that size, but I`d buy a better one (the one I have was a gift, and I *do* appreciate it, just wouldn`t mind soomething that works faster).

 

[cardaddy]

Yup... 3", 4" and 5" plates for my GG6. Really like the 4" CCS pads, and use them all the time.

Of course you could always to the Flex PE-8 kit and drop down to the 1", 2" and 3" pads. Not a DA, but a great lil` buffer to get into those tight areas.

 

[rlmccarty2000]

I`ve got the Rupes 75e which is their 3 inch polisher and love it, really couldn`t do without it. I have heard of people putting a 3 inch backing plate on their Porter Cable but they experience tons of vibration and it wears on them. You may be able to get an open box deal here (call Vega). The new Rupes Nano looks great but at that price you may want to pass. Flex has some smaller rotary tools you might want to explore.

 

[Mary B]

I have the small Flex rotary, with 1", 2", 3" pads & plates soon to try the 3.5" Force pads by Lake Country.
Do some very tight areas, edges. Correcting and polishing. It`s the first machine I grab, love it !

 

[Mr. Slick]

Rupes nano. They are so expensive but I want one.

 

[Swanicyouth]

I have the small Flex rotary, with 1", 2", 3" pads & plates soon to try the 3.5" Force pads by Lake Country.
Do some very tight areas, edges. Correcting and polishing. It`s the first machine I grab, love it !

This seems like a good option, as a bigger throw machine may make the pad wanna bump into things.

But I always wonder - do you ever get holograms with these little rotary machines? Is it not an issue because they are so small? Or, do most newer pads / polishes just finish hologram free?

Dunno. Zero rotary experience.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Accumulator]

. ..But I always wonder - do you ever get holograms with these little rotary machines?

That potential is why that unit isn`t for me. Even a tiny buff on a Dremel can leave holograms. Little ones, but holograms nonetheless.

 

[Audios S6]

This seems like a good option, as a bigger throw machine may make the pad wanna bump into things.

But I always wonder - do you ever get holograms with these little rotary machines? Is it not an issue because they are so small? Or, do most newer pads / polishes just finish hologram free?

Dunno. Zero rotary experience.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Oh yes, you get holograms when compounding. Perhaps not a big deal if you are polishing where the sun doesn`t shine (literally, not figuratively) like the bottom side of bumpers or rocker panels. But in general, you should accept that it will be 2-steps of correction.

I just did some spot correction a couple nights ago with the Pe-8. A couple passes with the 3401 to remove the holograms and blend in the correction was all it took on ford tuxedo black. You could also just use the outer 1" of the pad on a 3401 to remove holograms in most tight spaces.

It does boil down to the level of perfection. If you need those swirls gone, you are probably willing to accept doing multiple steps. If you just need a consistent finish, a polish/AIO by hand or with a finishing pad should
work fine.

 

[Mary B]

That potential is why that unit isn`t for me. Even a tiny buff on a Dremel can leave holograms. Little ones, but holograms nonetheless.

Im worried about that very thing.. so I try to go over what I can with my DA with a 2inch rotary plate on an adaptor, what I can not reach I use 2 or 3 steps, watch the compression and slow hand movements on setting 1 some areas I could never get to before now look great, very happy

sent from me

 

[Accumulator]

Adios S6- Heh heh, for some reason holograms are simply one of my pet peeves. Even *really* light ones in areas that "nobody ever sees"...I`d eventually spot them and then that vehicle sat unused until they got resolved.

Yeah, that "outermost edge of the pad" can work great. But if I can fit that in there (not even close on so many such areas ;( ) I wouldn`t have any holograms at all; I`d just use that from the git-go. For that matter, I just *don`t* have to deal with holograms as I never use my rotaries any more. I simply *love* how today`s products have freed me from needing a rotary for really aggressive work! Eh, I`ll never use a rotary again in this lifetime.

But even with stuff like M101, some tight spots can still take a long, long time to correct, or it sure seems that way. But at least it`s not the "literally several hours for one small area" that it used to take!

And yeah...that "level of perfection" thing! I`m kinda extreme about it despite telling (presumably normal) people here that they oughta dial back their inner-Autopian

FWIW, I`ve had some of those *really* light holograms that were *VERY* difficult to resolve! I was flumoxed..."gee, those`ve gotta be really shallow...what the..". Drove me *nuts*, took forever.

Mary B- Ah, sounds like you got your solution to this particular issue sorted out! Just keep an eye on that adapter as they sometimes break when you`d least expect it.

 

[Mary B]

Adios S6- Heh heh, for some reason holograms are simply one of my pet peeves. Even *really* light ones in areas that "nobody ever sees"...I`d eventually spot them and then that vehicle sat unused until they got resolved.

Yeah, that "outermost edge of the pad" can work great. But if I can fit that in there (not even close on so many such areas ;( ) I wouldn`t have any holograms at all; I`d just use that from the git-go. For that matter, I just *don`t* have to deal with holograms as I never use my rotaries any more. I simply *love* how today`s products have freed me from needing a rotary for really aggressive work! Eh, I`ll never use a rotary again in this lifetime.

But even with stuff like M101, some tight spots can still take a long, long time to correct, or it sure seems that way. But at least it`s not the "literally several hours for one small area" that it used to take!

And yeah...that "level of perfection" thing! I`m kinda extreme about it despite telling (presumably normal) people here that they oughta dial back their inner-Autopian

FWIW, I`ve had some of those *really* light holograms that were *VERY* difficult to resolve! I was flumoxed..."gee, those`ve gotta be really shallow...what the..". Drove me *nuts*, took forever.

Mary B- Ah, sounds like you got your solution to this particular issue sorted out! Just keep an eye on that adapter as they sometimes break when you`d least expect it.

Accumulator Im just beginning and you wouldnt believe some of the crazy sh## Ive done but I try to learn from everything and everyone

sent from me

 

[4u2nvinmtl]

I do the very tight area`s by hand. There`s lots of painted surface on my Jeep SRT8 that are 0.5-1inch wide (like the grill, behind the door handles, the door jambs, lower bumper lip, etc). I`ve been strongly considering getting the Rupes Nano for these area`s but they also look fine done by hand (M101 followed by M205 by hand). Sometimes I`ll cheat and use my PC with a 3inch pad and just buff with one edge (half) of the pad, very carfully. It acutally cuts very well the hard part is all the sharp edges near these narrow surfaces that need to be taped off. I also noticed my paint was significantly thinner in these area`s and under the hood...

 

[Accumulator]

Accumulator Im just beginning and you wouldnt believe some of the crazy sh## Ive done but I try to learn from everything and everyone

sent from me

IMO you`re displaying exactly the right mindset. Just be a little, uhm...careful...regarding "learning from everyone". Even me Lots of, uhm..."advice" out there these days and some of what you "learn" (scarequotes intentional) will be "what you shouldn`t have tried after all"!

 

[Mary B]

IMO you`re displaying exactly the right mindset. Just be a little, uhm...careful...regarding "learning from everyone". Even me Lots of, uhm..."advice" out there these days and some of what you "learn" (scarequotes intentional) will be "what you shouldn`t have tried after all"!

Understood .. no picking up bad habits

sent from me

 

[Accumulator]

Mary B- Yeah, if you don`t pick them up you don`t have to drop them