light swrils and marks

R

reeksti

New member
im a noob with the PC, but i've been getting info from a buddy on detailing my car, and i have a question......



i do use the 2 method bucket......i wash the car 2-3x a week and i have these ugly swirl marks and i see them at night time and sum in daylight. they are not heavy but i wanna get rid of them. i do have the Optimum compound and the polish and the orange cutting pad, polishing pad and the finishing pad....please guide me so i can get rid of them :getdown
 
You only see the swirls at nighttime? Isn't it usually the opposite... Look at the pictures from my other thread with my wife's Pilot. That thing is scary swirly in the sun but looks totally fine at dusk or night.
 
I find that on my car (silver), the micro scratches are not visible under full sunlight.



Only at night, under a certain lighting, it will reveal the scratches. I hate this because it makes it difficult to attack the scratches when you don't see them! Unless I park outside on the street under street lamp.
 
On my black honda, I can see the marks in bright sunlight and I've noticed them at night when the car was in a parking lot with the lights on. It all depends on the angle you are viewing the car from.
 
To duplicate that "under lights at night" effect, I turn out the other lights in the shop and use a high-wattage incandescent light (regular, old-fashioned light bulb, just a strong one). By varying the light's position and my viewing angle, I can find a combo that shows all the flaws. It's the only way I can spot light marring on silver and it works on other colors too.



reeksti- There are a lot of threads on how to use the PC, the general rule is to move it slowly so it has time to do its work. I polish at speed 6 and I do not work my polishes so long that they dry.



If the orange pad doesn't do it, get a 4" pad setup, that allows the PC to work far more aggressively.



And consider getting a foamgun and working on sciencing out your wash technique. Since I got really careful (and thoughtful ;) ) about how I wash I hardly *ever* have to polish out marring.
 
Accumulator is right. Also,if you're washing 2-3 times per week, you're wearing down your protection quick, that's if you still have any. Concentrate on the proper/least agressive way to wash & you'll get much better results. Also try the least agressive approach to polishing the swirls out too. See what results you get with polish before using a compound. It might cause more problems that it's worth. From you description, the swirls don't seen that bad to constitute a compund. You might also want to try using a spray wax when washing also.
 
David Fermani said:
Accumulator is right. Also,if you're washing 2-3 times per week, you're wearing down your protection quick, that's if you still have any. Concentrate on the proper/least agressive way to wash & you'll get much better results. Also try the least agressive approach to polishing the swirls out too. See what results you get with polish before using a compound. It might cause more problems that it's worth. From you description, the swirls don't seen that bad to constitute a compund. You might also want to try using a spray wax when washing also.
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yeha what spray wax u think will be good?
 
reeksti said:
still swirls left, i polished and waxed still nasty swirls left, what can i do next?
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Tell us exactly what you did and how you did it. Products, technique and anything else that's relavant.
 
reeksti-Unless you have to use the car or something, I wouldn't bother waxing until you get the marring the way you want it.



Sounds like you need a more aggressive approach, so get some 4" pads and some aggressive product for the initial correction. I recently mixed 1z Ultra with Hi-Temp Extreme Cut and this worked OK by PC *with the 4" pads* (don't try it with larger pads!). IMO that's getting to the upper limit of what you can do with a PC...it that doesn't do it you're gonna need a rotary or you'll have to live with it.



What kind of car is this anyhow?
 
Accumulator said:
reeksti-Unless you have to use the car or something, I wouldn't bother waxing until you get the marring the way you want it.



Sounds like you need a more aggressive approach, so get some 4" pads and some aggressive product for the initial correction. I recently mixed 1z Ultra with Hi-Temp Extreme Cut and this worked OK by PC *with the 4" pads* (don't try it with larger pads!). IMO that's getting to the upper limit of what you can do with a PC...it that doesn't do it you're gonna need a rotary or you'll have to live with it.



What kind of car is this anyhow?
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its a subaru wrx sti
 
David Fermani said:
Tell us exactly what you did and how you did it. Products, technique and anything else that's relavant.
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ok well i washed it, then totally dried it off........i then polished it, section by section, applied it with a applicator. then waxed it, section by section
 
reeksti- OK, I kinda figured from your user-name but I wanted to make sure.



I've heard weird reports that the clear on some Subies is harder than it is on others and that the difference seems to correlate with the color of the basecoat. Makes *NO* sense to me but that's what I've heard :nixweiss Anyhow...



I had a (silver) WRX and I was able to correct its paint with my old stand-by products 3M PI-III RC 05933 and PI-III MG 05937. Even the spots I did by had came out OK, so IMO you must be using the wrong products/pads/maybe technique. It just wasn't *that* hard to correct the Subie clear.



So if I were you I'd rethink the products you're using for correction. Plan on using two, one aggressive and one mild. Use the former until the marring is gone and then use the latter. Then wax. Get your lighting squared away so you can see if the marring is really gone.



If you use a foamgun, and wash once a week, you shouldn't have to polish more than maybe once a year, if that often.
 
Accumulator said:
reeksti- OK, I kinda figured from your user-name but I wanted to make sure.



I've heard weird reports that the clear on some Subies is harder than it is on others and that the difference seems to correlate with the color of the basecoat. Makes *NO* sense to me but that's what I've heard :nixweiss Anyhow...



I had a (silver) WRX and I was able to correct its paint with my old stand-by products 3M PI-III RC 05933 and PI-III MG 05937. Even the spots I did by had came out OK, so IMO you must be using the wrong products/pads/maybe technique. It just wasn't *that* hard to correct the Subie clear.



So if I were you I'd rethink the products you're using for correction. Plan on using two, one aggressive and one mild. Use the former until the marring is gone and then use the latter. Then wax. Get your lighting squared away so you can see if the marring is really gone.



If you use a foamgun, and wash once a week, you shouldn't have to polish more than maybe once a year, if that often.
Click to expand...



ok what u think i should do, technique wise? any pointers i should know, i use optimum polish with a white pad
 
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