Klasse SG Via PC

2.5RS

2.5RS

New member
I've read through many of the threads concerning the application of Klasse PC using a PC, it seems as though the biggest argument against it is that the PC seems to lay down too much product. I am contemplating using a grey finishing pad covered in saran wrap or something similiar and using a MF bonnet on top of that for the application. Obviously the saran wrap would be used to keep the SG from soaking into the foam pad, and hopefully allow a very thin layer to be applied.

Any thoughts? Anybody else ever try this? I'm still very new to this and am just experimenting with different styles of application, looking for one that I like. My apologies if this is a stupid question, attribute that to my n00bie-ness..

:o
 
2.5RS said:
I've read through many of the threads concerning the application of Klasse PC using a PC, it seems as though the biggest argument against it is that the PC seems to lay down too much product. I am contemplating using a grey finishing pad covered in saran wrap or something similiar and using a MF bonnet on top of that for the application. Obviously the saran wrap would be used to keep the SG from soaking into the foam pad, and hopefully allow a very thin layer to be applied.

Any thoughts? Anybody else ever try this? I'm still very new to this and am just experimenting with different styles of application, looking for one that I like. My apologies if this is a stupid question, attribute that to my n00bie-ness..

:o
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I used a Sonus finishing pad (blue) this weekend with great results with PC set on 2.5. One thing I figured out is that if you are laying down too think of a layer just expand the area you are working on until you get the desired thickness. Also having the pad soak up some of the SG is not a bad thing, you will eventually get to a point in the application that you will no longer need to add any SG to the pad.
 
2.5RS said:
Did you spritz the pad with a QD or water? or just went straight at it with the SG?
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I just used straight SG, I actually over loaded the pad a little when I first started (hence working it into a larger area) but then I was applying it to my 26' boat and was not worried about the excess going to waste.
 
I'll use a black Lake Country pad on a pc set at 5, and will lightly spray a quick detail spray followed by a small ring around the parimeter of the pad, and work it into an area about the size of half the hood, quarter panel, etc. until product is practically gone. It might seem like there's nothing there, but there is. It's just a very small amount thats been worked into the clearcoat. I'll then let it dry for about 30 minutes and quick detail the whole vehicle with a mixture of AIO and water. I use 4 ounces of AIO combined with 12 ounces of water to make a "homemade" pint of the best detail spray I've ever used. I've been using this procedure for about a year now and it works like a charm. I hope this helps.
 
Using seran wrap over your pad is a creative idea, but I think this would probably scratch your paint up pretty good. Seran wrap is flimsy but that doesn't make it soft - for example you wouldn't want to crumple it in to a ball and then rub it on your paint! From my personal experience, I don't think there's any reason to apply SG by machine. It is not quicker, it uses more product, and is no more effective.
 
bmwbear said:
I used a Sonus finishing pad (blue) this weekend with great results with PC set on 2.5. One thing I figured out is that if you are laying down too think of a layer just expand the area you are working on until you get the desired thickness. Also having the pad soak up some of the SG is not a bad thing, you will eventually get to a point in the application that you will no longer need to add any SG to the pad.
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I did the same thing w/ the same products and tools the other day and it worked out better than any other technique I've used thus far. :woohoo:
 
I have used a MF finishing bonnet over a finishing foam pad with great results. It keeps the bonnet just damp enough to apply product, yet doesn't allow too much to be applied. Priming the pad with water/QD first helps. SG can be tricky to work with, but this is the best method I've found so far.
 
I ended up just using a black finishing pad to apply the SG, worked beautifully! After hearing all the horror stories I was trying to think of a way to make it easier, but this worked incredibly well, just kept the pad damp, and it went on and came off much better than I expected :woohoo:
 
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