Kevin Brown Method Thread...

I

imported_Luster

New member
I recently traded PM's with Kevin Brown. I was interested in having him post a quick, to-the-point thread on the Kevin Brown Method, that could be used as an outline for the newer guys (and even the OLDER guys :D ), until the paper is released.

I am posting Kevin's response below.

Here is a man who is truly at the top of his game!!!

Thanks for your words Kevin. Hope this will be informative to everyone!

(Kevin gave me permission to post this.)

Hi Bill!

Thanks for the request.

The reason I have never posted a blow-by-blow of the Todd Helme named Kevin Brown Method is because I don't want a lot of guys that are new or green with the machine to try this procedure instead of what is considered the norm.

This method really stirs the pot of discussion, and there are still a lot of naysayers that don't believe it works, or think that it cannot possibly rival the rotary (or the Flex XC 3401 VRG) for defect removal and final paint polishing. It certainly can, but it is not necessarily because of the method.

Knowledge of how things work will always trump methods.

I did send the information along to several people. The guys that got it seem to have a pretty good understanding of how to operate both a rotary and a random orbital.

What I decided to do (rather than post a step-by-step) is to preface the actual method with information about how a random orbital works. I have a LOT of information about buffing pads, backing plates, stroke size, and on and on. I believe that the information is a bit different that what is readily available on the net today. Some of it is a recap, but most of it is not.

For a guy that really wants to know how or why this method works, it is best to understand the machine and accompanying hardware. This way, the mystery of how the random orbital operate is eliminated, and a reader of the paper will be more able to diagnose an unsatisfactory result (should one occur).

After reading, I hope that a paint polishing enthusiast will be able to test polish a panel, evaluate the result, and make an educated change to the setup or his procedure (should it be necessary).

Even if the reader does not wish to use (or need to use) the method, they should have a very good understanding of how to use a random orbital polisher once a careful reading of the paper is complete.

ETA of the release date? Hard to say. It is coming together nicely, but wow!- this thing is growing and growing. Put it this way... the 20-pager has grown by about 20 pages (including spacing, text, and graphics), and I have not even looked at the original 20 pages in months!

Should be soon.
But you know how my deadlines go... :D

Feel free to post this on your thread. Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
I hate to read, but I think this one will hold my attention! I cant wait to read it! Thanks for going right to source Bill!
 
Kevin is the man, a gentleman, and scholar. He is very humble, and sometimes I wish I wouldn't have made such a big deal about the method because it is frustrating seeing ignorant people make off hand comments on other forums attacking Kevin's integrity....
 
th0001 said:
Kevin is the man, a gentleman, and scholar. He is very humble, and sometimes I wish I wouldn't have made such a big deal about the method because it is frustrating seeing ignorant people make off hand comments on other forums attacking Kevin's integrity....
Click to expand...

Like you said there are always a few ignorant people who do not have a clue. So consider the source applies....

I find Kevin to be very humble, but at the same time the most knowledgeable person I have ever spoken to about polishing paint.
 
gmblack3 said:
Like you said there are always a few ignorant people who do not have a clue. So consider the source applies....

I find Kevin to be very humble, but at the same time the most knowledgeable person I have ever spoken to about polishing paint.
Click to expand...


BY FAR THE MOST KNOWLEDGEABLE, to the point that is almost crazy...


:StarWars:
 
Thanks for the kind words, guys.

Well Luster, I went ahead and posted this on another forum because there is a continuous amount of confusion about the "method", so against my better judgement, I wrote this:

Wow, melting velcro and backing plates?! :scared:

I have intentionally avoided posting information about this method because there are soooo many reasons this method works. I think it is best to give a few pointers now, because there is a lot of misinformation and confusion about the procedure. I d not want newbies to try this method before using what is normally recommended!! NEWBIES- this is NOT for you!!! Until the paper is released, stick with the manufacturers recommendations if at all possible (with exception to the priming part- it helps every time I've tried it).

Luster... here you go!
While an increase in pressure is necessary, it is not the only factor that should be addressed when using the "method".

Proper priming of the pad is super important!
This one step will have more positive effect on polishing performance than anything else. Well, a clean pad is equally important.

Consistent pressure across the pad is key.

The pad should be rotating at all times. More speed is a good thing when heavy defect removal is the goal. This does not mean that slow rotation will not work. However- some pads rotate well while others do not. Oftentimes, if there is insufficient removal of defects even with a substantial amount of downward pressure, a swap of the pad to one that is more aggressive or smaller in diameter will work. The guys that are using smaller diameter pads to remove heavy defects are working smart- not hard.

After all the defects have been sufficiently removed, final polishing should be accomplished using the softest or mildest pad available, with a couple of caveats:

The pad must be able to accept firm pressure without marring the surface. If marring of the paint occurs, do a test spot by hand using a foam or microfiber applicator pad. Check your work. If the marring has been eliminated, the pad should be inspected for damage or contamination. If the pad is clean, it is likely that it is incompatible with the paint type when paired with the particular buffing liquid being used.

There is a lot of confusion pertaining to how much product should be used when using this "method".

In general, for defect removal
First, thoroughly prime the pad as shown here: http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31568l
Add buffing liquid as needed, making sure to clean the pad prior to adding more buffing liquid. To properly clean the pad, lightly brush with a soft nylon bristles brush. Then use compressed air to remove stuck on debris, followed by a quick towel cleaning of the pad. To towel clean, hold a microfiber towel in one hand and press the pad into it while throttling the machine using the other hand for 3-5 seconds (or until the pad looks clean). For safety sake, a microfiber bonnet over a foam pad works great!

To hold the bonnet/pad combo, this type of applicator works great:
http://www.ferroind.com/pdfs/Ferro Industries, Inc Catalog.pdf (bottom of page 7, part number JPS-60)

For final polishing, prime the finishing pad as previously discussed, and let the pad sit for a few minutes. This will allow the buffing liquid some time to permeate the pore structure of the pad. Prior to use, remove a majority of the buffing liquid utilizing the towel cleaning method previously discussed. This will eliminate clumps of abrasive material and remove excess product from the pore structure of the pad (this way no added product will make its way onto the surface of the pad). At this point, the pad face should have a very consistently applied amount of buffing liquid. Then, polish at a slow speed setting, making certain that the pad is able to rotate (it does not matter how many rotations there are, the goal is to minimize the chance of "flatspotting the pad). Add small amounts of product as needed. That's all.
 
Kevin Brown said:
Thanks for the kind words, guys.

Well Luster, I went ahead and posted this on another forum because there is a continuous amount of confusion about the "method", so against my better judgement, I wrote this:

Wow, melting velcro and backing plates?! :scared:

I have intentionally avoided posting information about this method because there are soooo many reasons this method works. I think it is best to give a few pointers now, because there is a lot of misinformation and confusion about the procedure. I d not want newbies to try this method before using what is normally recommended!! NEWBIES- this is NOT for you!!! Until the paper is released, stick with the manufacturers recommendations if at all possible (with exception to the priming part- it helps every time I've tried it).

Luster... here you go!
While an increase in pressure is necessary, it is not the only factor that should be addressed when using the "method".

Proper priming of the pad is super important!
This one step will have more positive effect on polishing performance than anything else. Well, a clean pad is equally important.

Consistent pressure across the pad is key.

The pad should be rotating at all times. More speed is a good thing when heavy defect removal is the goal. This does not mean that slow rotation will not work. However- some pads rotate well while others do not. Oftentimes, if there is insufficient removal of defects even with a substantial amount of downward pressure, a swap of the pad to one that is more aggressive or smaller in diameter will work. The guys that are using smaller diameter pads to remove heavy defects are working smart- not hard.

After all the defects have been sufficiently removed, final polishing should be accomplished using the softest or mildest pad available, with a couple of caveats:

The pad must be able to accept firm pressure without marring the surface. If marring of the paint occurs, do a test spot by hand using a foam or microfiber applicator pad. Check your work. If the marring has been eliminated, the pad should be inspected for damage or contamination. If the pad is clean, it is likely that it is incompatible with the paint type when paired with the particular buffing liquid being used.

There is a lot of confusion pertaining to how much product should be used when using this "method".

In general, for defect removal
First, thoroughly prime the pad as shown here: http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31568l
Add buffing liquid as needed, making sure to clean the pad prior to adding more buffing liquid. To properly clean the pad, lightly brush with a soft nylon bristles brush. Then use compressed air to remove stuck on debris, followed by a quick towel cleaning of the pad. To towel clean, hold a microfiber towel in one hand and press the pad into it while throttling the machine using the other hand for 3-5 seconds (or until the pad looks clean). For safety sake, a microfiber bonnet over a foam pad works great!

To hold the bonnet/pad combo, this type of applicator works great:
http://www.ferroind.com/pdfs/Ferro Industries, Inc Catalog.pdf (bottom of page 7, part number JPS-60)

For final polishing, prime the finishing pad as previously discussed, and let the pad sit for a few minutes. This will allow the buffing liquid some time to permeate the pore structure of the pad. Prior to use, remove a majority of the buffing liquid utilizing the towel cleaning method previously discussed. This will eliminate clumps of abrasive material and remove excess product from the pore structure of the pad (this way no added product will make its way onto the surface of the pad). At this point, the pad face should have a very consistently applied amount of buffing liquid. Then, polish at a slow speed setting, making certain that the pad is able to rotate (it does not matter how many rotations there are, the goal is to minimize the chance of "flatspotting the pad). Add small amounts of product as needed. That's all.
Click to expand...

Very interesting to note how many times Kevin mentions "Keep the pad ROTATING!!!"
I've also found, just throught trial and error, how important this aspect of polishing with a PC is.:thumbup:

Second note: I started buying 5.5" pads because they were cheap. Now I use them because they do a better job and "work smart"!!!!;)
 
gmblack3 said:
Like you said there are always a few ignorant people who do not have a clue. So consider the source applies....

I find Kevin to be very humble, but at the same time the most knowledgeable person I have ever spoken to about polishing paint.
Click to expand...

th0001 said:

BY FAR THE MOST KNOWLEDGEABLE, to the point that is almost crazy...


:StarWars:
Click to expand...

Could not agree more! I have known Kevin for quite sometime, and his knowledge in the art of polishing paint is amazing and is in a whole other league compared to some self proclaimed experts.

Tim
 
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